Few question on buying an X

[fouz]

Greetings, been lurking for a long time.
Yesterday the wife and I went to look at a 2000 X.
http://m.yachtworld.com/mobile/boats/20 ... ted-States
We didn't really inspect it too much as this was our first time being on an X and was just seeing if it might be what we want. Well I think it is.
The question is should we get a survey or just try to look it over real good ourself? My only knowledge is off the web. The boat does look real clean and looks to have been set up for single handling.

Thanks for any advise.

P.s. As I was typing this my wife was saying "let's call em back" (the boat place) so I think she is sold.

[coolchange]

A survey properly done by a real surveyor will let you know every little thing there is to know about your boat...engine condition, rigging, wiring, hull, safety stuff etc. It is great peace of mind...and often a good point of negotiation.

[Catigale]

The big things are

1 Does it float as intended (since they are flotation hulls, they all float, but I mean near the factory waterline...

2 The motor. If it starts on land with earmuffs (water supply) on the first crank and revs smoothly,

Replacing a 50 with a new motor will cost about 8000 USD, so if that is a big problem cashwise, then get a pro survey on the motor including compression test

Everything else can be fixed relatively cheaply.

[mastreb]

The big things are

1 Does it float as intended (since they are flotation hulls, they all float, but I mean near the factory waterline...

2 The motor. If it starts on land with earmuffs (water supply) on the first crank and revs smoothly,

Replacing a 50 with a new motor will cost about 8000 USD, so if that is a big problem cashwise, then get a pro survey on the motor including compression test

Everything else can be fixed relatively cheaply.

Catigale has mentioned all the big ticket items. Might also put the steering through a few stop-to-stop rotations to make sure it's not binding, check the mast for straightness, and inspect the stays for fraying. With these items, buy the boat anyway as they're all <$1000 to fix, but use them as negotiation points.

Beyond that, anything electrically wrong with the boat just rip-out and replace. Expect dings on the rudders and daggerboard--they're cheap to replace with factory new. You'll be customizing it well beyond whatever it comes with shortly anyway. I would expect to replace batteries and consider any functioning electronics on the boat as a free bonus.

Expect to spend $2000 after you purchase on minor enhancements, coast guard items, and things you'll think you need (but don't)

Good luck, and welcome aboard!

Matt

[DaveB]

Marine surveys are usually not needed in this type of boat if the buyer has knowledge of boats. Ck for bottom blistering, cracks in hull and deck,sail condition and engine performance and maintance records.
Also ck standing rigging at attachments and running rigging.
Engine cables for smooth operation and steering cable.
Trailer is a must to see how much rust and strength it has.
Most Marine surveys do not bother with engine and you will need a mechanic to do that for you.
Do this quickly if you are getting a bargin as the old saying goes.
(Ya snooze Ya lose).
Good luck
Dave

Greetings, been lurking for a long time.
Yesterday the wife and I went to look at a 2000 X.
http://m.yachtworld.com/mobile/boats/20 ... ted-States
We didn't really inspect it too much as this was our first time being on an X and was just seeing if it might be what we want. Well I think it is.
The question is should we get a survey or just try to look it over real good ourself? My only knowledge is off the web. The boat does look real clean and looks to have been set up for single handling.

Thanks for any advise.

P.s. As I was typing this my wife was saying "let's call em back" (the boat place) so I think she is sold.

[fouz]

We didn't test the motor. They said before we could run it they had to send It to the service department and check it over. Said they would do their check and run to check for overheating and any other problems. Sound normal? Guy said since it was a consignment they had to look it over.
Every thing else looks ok. Trailer has some minor rust, of course the worst part is in the tongue. I think it will last a few years. And I can see what looks like a docking hit that was repaired on the port rub rail. A section of new rub rail was put on and what I guess would be some epoxy just above the rail. I just pushed around the area real good to see if it was solid.

We go back friday to look at the motor and check everything one more time and get ready to take it home.
No money has changed hands yet but got that all worked out today while we was there. So unless something changes.......

Thanks for the replies. If anybody has any more tips I'll take em .

[Divecoz]

Looks to be in good shape.. hard to tell from limited # of pictures.. No wires frayed on any of the rigging? easy enough to see..
Few of us here haven't ....Bumped a dock ..Skeg looks good ,clean, straight on the lower end of the motor? Hasn't been recently Repainted ??
Stuff like that..
Bilges ( under seats check em ALL) no water? Trailer tongue? Better pics when shes yours.. Tongues are available..
You've looked around and your happy with what ever price you ended up at? Engine has no problems ...Good to go ..
As said few Marine Surveyors do outboard analysis thats one of your biggest issues 90+% of the time on these boats.. Everything else is a cheap fix ..

[DaveB]

I would have a Macanic ck the engine out since thats the most expensive item to replace or repair.
I bought my MacX with slight damage to Port Rail that caused spider cracks and have not repaired after 3 years but did buy a 50 ft. rubrail thru BY and been sitting at my house for past 2 years along with all window replacements.
Stock Steel Trailer is crap and if you ever launch in salt water it needs to be replaced. Figuare $3400 for a new tandem aluminum trailer with one axel with brakes.
I just need time off work to do the regelcoat,rub rail,windows and a few other items.
Like I said if you get the boat at a low cost you can upgrade and maybe come out even.
I paid $7800 3 years ago for a MacX1997 without trailer and now have $14000 into it but thats with new Trailer and many upgrades including Sterio, rewireing,headsail,cusions below,refigeration,3 new bateries with Elect. panels,ground gear.ETC.
Thats about what the boat is worth and still need auto Pilot and few other things. But 3 years I broke even so far with a lot of Sailing.
I am thinking of new outboard and that will set me back $5000 includeing tradein. for a 70 hp. add $1000-1500 and can do the 90hp. Shop said they will give me $1500 allowance for my BF50 Honda.

Dave

We didn't test the motor. They said before we could run it they had to send It to the service department and check it over. Said they would do their check and run to check for overheating and any other problems. Sound normal? Guy said since it was a consignment they had to look it over.
Every thing else looks ok. Trailer has some minor rust, of course the worst part is in the tongue. I think it will last a few years. And I can see what looks like a docking hit that was repaired on the port rub rail. A section of new rub rail was put on and what I guess would be some epoxy just above the rail. I just pushed around the area real good to see if it was solid.

We go back friday to look at the motor and check everything one more time and get ready to take it home.
No money has changed hands yet but got that all worked out today while we was there. So unless something changes.......

Thanks for the replies. If anybody has any more tips I'll take em .

[Catigale]

You need YOUR mechanic to check motor, not theirs . If a motor of this vintage isn't starting and running well, it's worth 500 bucks for parts. Add new motor plus controls plus install costs to the selling price and see if it makes sense.

[fouz]

You need YOUR mechanic to check motor, not theirs . If a motor of this vintage isn't starting and running well, it's worth 500 bucks for parts. Add new motor plus controls plus install costs to the selling price and see if it makes sense.

Will do. They just wouldn't let us run it till they checked it out. I told him basically what everyone has said. My main concern is the engine. I didn't bring a mechanic but I will try to get one lined up for Friday.

What's the protocol in getting any outboard mechanic to look it over? Just call around and ask? Anyone know one in the Pensacola fl. area?

[Catigale]

Pix do show a nice clean low use boat. Could you run the registration and talk to the previous owner about usage and the motor? The problem with any boat is the motor is all or none....0 to 8000 to fix or not!! The purchase goes from great to horrible on that swing

My favourite lark - A Mercury (serviced anywhere) 9.9 HP brand new is 2500 USD - install yourself. You can get a decent hull speed only or powered for that coin which would get this boat onto the water for sailing and <7mph powering.

A new Yammy 50 HP is cheaper as noted below

4555 USD for the 2 stroke, 5555 for the 4 stroke

[argonaut]

The boat is 11. Assume the outboard will be replaced and if you can accomodate that you should be happy.
The motor is the biggest replacement cost item on the boat.
Most everything else on the boat is simple and inexpensive to replace if you need to, just make sure the hull is in good shape.
My Honda 50 was a beautiful but useless transom ornament when I bought my X, a new trustworthy outboard is worth the bucks.
I'm now a NAAH guy. Never Again A Honda.
The best outboard is the one you can afford -and- the one you can afford to get fixed.
Sooo, look around at the kind of service you have in your area. There are 8 places an easy drive for me that support Yamaha, Merc and Suzuki.
Not true for Honda and parts are dear and come from Atlanta... I'm on the opposite coast of Florida.

The collective opinion is right about cost for a new 50, and that's the max the boat was rated for.
But a new servicable motor can be had for less than $8K. My Yammy 40 ran about $5K installed and can move my boat about 18mph top end.
If you truly want a planing Mac X, consider the 70 to 90 HP range, at about $120 per horsepower.
I lusted after a 2 stroke 'Rude but just couldn't part with the cash plus, I'm out there to sail.

A survey may be overkill but I did it, but it didn't help with the motor. They have liability to worry about and can't thrash the thing to see how well it operates.
Usually they tell ya to have a mechanic look it over but that's not gonna show you the salt deposits inside the engine.

Whatever you do, get a water separating filter installed ( $40?) and use a good fuel additive like Stabil.

[puggsy]

Oh ! if only I had some spare dollars....$17,000 US for a 2000 ....and with the aussie dollar now at about $1.15, this makes it even cheaper in $AU.
I say this because I sold my 03 at a bit more than I paid for it 20 months before...around the $AU60 mark...and there is ONE for sale here, probably an 05 going for $AU75,000...

Buy it, ship it here, and still make a profit.

[Divecoz]

Trailers ?? There's a (200?) X sitting on a trailer in the 2000 block of O'Hara in Port Charlotte Fla. ( Might still be on Google Street walk)I talked with the owner when I was down for the winter sailing my M .. Nice Older fellow.. We walked around his boat talked a lot about where all he sailed it over the years and his trailer looked ? Darn Nice..
But for sure .....check out that trailer, there are some really Dumb(?) Lazy(?) Clueless(?) Boaters out there..

[fouz]

Well, it's in my yard now. We have a lot to learn