26X wiring help?

[gyroplanes]

Sorry if I am becoming a pest. I will contribute soon, I promise.

I decided to add a few 110 Volt outlets, a shore power receptacle and modify the 12 Volt circuits a bit.

Since I am bringing the 110 volts in through a receptacle under the starboard, fwd, curved rail, the wires will be behind the inspection cover in the head's aft wall.
I would like to run a wire set forward to just over the dinette, and another set athwartships, to the battery box "seat" just aft of the galley.

My questions are:

• How do I get wires forward with the Head fwd bulkhead bonded to the hull?
  
  • Can I go down and through the bilge with these wires?
    
    • How can I pass wiring athwartships as there doesn't appear to be any routes in the bilge. Can I fish wires through the "beam" like sections where the headliner bulges down under the mast support pole?

I appreciate any help. I am anxious to sail.

[ualpow]

My 's previous owner had a rubber 3 prong "charger" outlet as his shore power. With only the hot and neutral wired up. He used lamp cord which was run between the aft head wall and outside liner, down into under sink area. From there it was run under the head to the under seat area. I replaced it with the square shore power receptacle and ran 3 wire 10ga to a Blue-sea 30amp breaker panel which is installed on aft wall of aft seat to stay within the required 10'. I had to run my cable out the aft wall into the berth area and back in under the cabinet because I used three wire cable. If I would have used individual wires it probably could have all been hidden. I went from the AC panel to a GFCI under the aft seat and then to my charger. I kept as much of the wire as high as I could. On the opposing seat I will have an outlet from the inverter. I am still looking at an ELCI for the future.
I was planning on getting a slip near you in Hammond but I ate into my marina funds already. I will probably do transient slip during the summer. Looking forward to sailing with you soon!

[gyroplanes]

Sounds like I can run my 3 wire down the aft head wall, under the floor forward to the "cooler compartment" which would take care of the outlet (GCFI) at the dinette . Did you then go forward to access the port side? You said you went through the berth, the V or aft berths?

I look forward to sailing with you this summer. I probably won't be able to put in for another couple weeks. You could probably use my slip until then if your boat is ready to go. I'd have to meet you to get you the parking and gate passes as I haven't picked them up yet.

[ualpow]

Thank you. My was in storage for so long the CDI luff extrusion looks like a snake. It's weighted down in the backyard now, I hope it straightens out. I pulled the forestay out and I'm going to use it with the hank on jib if I don't get the furler fixed before I go out. I Won't be ready for awhile myself. I want to go out with another boat for the first couple of times in case the engine has issues.

[Catigale]

You can run that 110 aft from the cooler, port side of the head, and then over to the aft galley seat wi th a fish tape. Not too hard. I would secure it above well out of the bilge area.

[gyroplanes]

Catigale,
I will try passing a fishtape from the cooler aft seat to the galley aft seat tonight, that would complete my wiring and I can seal up the shore power and vent outlets AND move on.
Thanks for the help

UALPOW,
If I remember, the plastic luff piece will straighten out very well under tension.
I'd be glad to shadow you or monitor the radio for you on your first sail if things work out for timing.

[Hamin' X]

If you are going to run Romex type wiring thru the bilge area, I highly recommend that you be sure and use "UF" rated cable. My understanding is that this type of cable is rated for direct burial and for use in wet environments. I'm sure that Divecoz, or John can chime in with the particulars and/or a correction.

~Rich

[Hamin' X]

On further research, it would appear that solid conductor wire does not meet "code" for boats anymore. Only stranded conductor wire is acceptable. You can do a search for "marine romex" and find some.

I only spent a few minutes on this and it may be that this only applies to boats of a certain length, or inboards, or some such. Do your own due diligence.

~Rich

[Divecoz]

#14 and #12 Direct Burial Yard Light cable works just fine, even after 5 years for me.. I do as well have the very $$$$$ Marine cable.... but Yard lite wiring is working well even after the winter in Florida salt water.. To Each His own..
Solid cable "can" be a issue depending on a LOT of variables.. IMHO if you isolate the vibration points ,it should hold up for maybe 20 to 100 years
IMHO a bigger issue is connections with solid cable.. takes more patience..