Tightening stays on 26M

[Jim Cate]

Sorry if I should have figured out the answers to these questions from the previous discussion re adjusting the stays on the 26X, but I need a little more info re the (2004) 26M, which does not have a backstay. From a rough observation of my boat, I think all three of the stays are too loose, and that the mast has excessive rake. Under sail, we have trouble getting the boat to come about through a tack, which I understand may be helped by tightening the rigging and reducing the rake. I have the factory roller furling system, and the lower pulley is located at the extreme lower end of the forestay with no visible turnbuckle or other means for tightening the forestay.

(1) What is the normal procedure for shortening the forestay on a boat such as the 26M with roller furling? I noted some previous discussion that I understood to suggest raising the roller furling unit first. - Does this mean that the lower RF pulley can be raised by hand to reveal a turnbuckle or other adjustment mechanism? - It would be more involved if I have to lower the mast first, so I'm hoping I can avoid that step.

(2) Does anyone have a ball-park recommendation for a suitable range of tension for the stays? - I have an inexpensive Loos gage that I would like to use for the adjustment. Would 150 - 200 lbs be about right? Also, would the tension on the left, right, and front stays be the same? I'm sure that this subject could be discussed in detail, but I'm just trying to get the boat in an approximately suitable adjustment for general cruising. - I don't need to tune the rigging for racing, but I would like some suggestions of a suitable starting point.

(3) Regarding the rake, it seems that a typical recommendation is around four degrees. - Does anyone have a convenient formula for determining the rake in degrees (assuming that the boat is level)? I find that it's easier for me to throw a line with a small weight over the middle
spreader, so I'm not extending the "plumb bob" line the full 30 feet.

Thanks for any answers or suggestions.

Jim Cate

[Steve M]

The short answer to your question.
1. The stays on the "M" should be loose so that the mast can rotate freely.
2. The furler has a turn buckle hidden inside the plastic tube
you will see a pin with a cotter pin in it. I think that by removing it and raising the tube, you will see the turn buckle.
Hope this did not confuse you more

Steve

[Timm Miller]

Where the grey foil meets the black bail on the furler is a pin......pull that pin out and raise the black drum up and you will see the turnbuckle....this was all mentioned on the other Mac site.

[Chip Hindes]

The stays on the "M" should be loose so that the mast can rotate freely.

I don't have an M, but I would be surprised if the mast rotation system requires that the stays be loose to function correctly.

[Catigale]

Jim

Without getting into the 'tuning for performance thread' which can go on forever, if you have loose lee shrouds when close hauled you are in danger of damage from shock loading as you tack, gusts,etc...I learned this through experience on the Great Lakes, costing me a spreader turned into a hockey stick.

150-200 # tension is pretty loose on an X, but I cant comment on how it applies to an M since the rigging is obviously different.

Catigale

[Sloop John B]

For starters, crank this page up and look to your left to click on a button entitled 'featured articles'. Then look for Whitmore's tuning article. This is for the X. You're going to have to find out what distinctions, if any, apply to the M.

[baldbaby2000]

There is a procedure in the 26M manual for adjusting the stays using a tape measure. I haven't tried it so I don't know how well it works. I don't think you want the stays "loose." Mine are fairly snug and the mast seems to rotate fine. The design seems to allow for rotation with tight shrouds.

[Jim Cate]

Where the grey foil meets the black bail on the furler is a pin......pull that pin out and raise the black drum up and you will see the turnbuckle....this was all mentioned on the other Mac site.

Thanks for the info. - I will be able to make the adjustment from these instructions.

Incidentally, where was all this information (- the fact that you first have to pull the pin out , where the grey foil meets the black bail, and then raise the black drum to see the turnbuckel - ) on the other Mac site? - I didn't find it.

Jim

[Moe]

CDI Flexible Furler 2 Installaton/Operating Instructions (in case you didn't get one)

Page 8 - Paragraph 13 "If the forestay length needs to be adjusted, remove the luff support pin, slide up the spool to expose turnbuckle, and make your adjustment."

Page 3 - Parts List shows "luff support pin" as item "C"

Page 2 - Drawing of Furler has a line from the letter "C" to the "luff support pin"

Page 3 also identifies the spool as item "B" and that's on Page 2 as well.

--
Moe

[Timm Miller]

I answered the same question on another site. You will need a small crescent wrench for the forestay. There is an area above the threaded part of the forestay for a small wrench to keep the wire from turning as you tighten the turnbuckle. If the turnbuckle doesn't have the very small cotter pins in the ends of the threaded parts.......please please please put them in there.

[Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL]

Some of the Mac dealers sell tools that simplify adjusting the shrouds.
I sell my Rig Adjusting Tool, which I make from a vise-grips, for $30, including USPS Priority Mail shipping.
I think it works quite well.

[Tom Spohn]

Jim,
I just went back and re-read the rig tuning tips BWY enclosed with our new M: "Most Mac Gregors sail well with about 3-6 degrees of aft rake. If your boat tends to round up into a stiff breeze, shorten the headstay to bring the mast tip forward; if it turns away from the breeze, lengthen the headstay. The 26M should be towards the 3 degree end of the range (nearly straight up)."

Other tips:
Never pull the center of the mast aft beyond straight. The center should always bend forward a little. Tighten the upper shrouds a little to push the middle forward. The mast on the M is stiffer and is difficult to bend. It is OK if it is straight.

How tight? Snug, but not so tight you can play music on it.

After we had our M a few months I began to notice it would not come about in light air as well as when new. The boat just wanted to fall off from the wind. This was due to a new boat rigging stretching. Reminded me of new guitar strings. After tightening all the shrouds evenly, with no adjustment to the headstay it sails much better. I don't believe that adjusting the rigging "tight" will affect the rotating mast--as least that has been my experience.

[Jim Cate]

Thanks for the suggestions. I was at the boat today and made some adjustments to the rigging, including repositioning the stays and tightening the turnbuckle. On my gage, this resulted in a tension of around 150-200 lbs. on the lateral stays- Haven't had a chance to get the boat in the water to check the rake of the mast. (Looks like another week of rain and thunderstorms here in the Houston area, so it will be later in the month before I can take the boat out.)

I believe that all the stays were too loose, and perhaps these adjustments will help.

Jim