Smelly Sheets!!!

richandlori · Post by **richandlori** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 3:07 pm

After a recent weekend on the water followed by an extensive wash down, my dock lines, sheets, and rode all smell extreamly bad. Has anyone found a way to clean them? I was going to soak them in a mild bleach water, but didn't want to destroy my ropes/sheets.

any advice?

Rich

Moe · Post by **Moe** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 3:12 pm

I use the washing machine, but found out the hard way that even on the "Soak" cycle, it agitates a bit after filling, which can tangle them up. So I manually shut it off while still in the fill cycle and let 'em soak in soapy water. Then I agitate 'em by hand, then put 'em through spin. Then I do a fill for rinse, hand-agitate, and spin, and repeat. Hang 'em and let 'em air dry.

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Moe

richandlori · Post by **richandlori** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 4:18 pm

So no soap of cleaner?

Rich

Moe · Post by **Moe** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 4:27 pm

Just a little liquid laundry detergent... some might insist on Woolite, but I used whatever we had handy. No bleach though.

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Moe

richandlori · Post by **richandlori** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 6:32 pm

Thanks Moe....They will go in the wash tonight....to save the garage from the smell.....my wife wanted to throw them out!!!!!

Rich

ken lockhart · Post by **ken lockhart** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 7:18 pm

Just put your sheets in a pillow case and put them in the washer, this keeps them from getting tangled up.

Ken

Moe · Post by **Moe** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 7:24 pm

If I tried that, the washer would walk out of the laundry room on the spin cycle.

Dividing them up in two or three would work though. Good idea.

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Moe

Catigale · Post by **Catigale** » Sat Dec 18, 2004 7:27 pm

A lingerie bag at $3 from walmart or equivalent works well.

Im sure you can buy a Marine Grade one for $30.

Dont borrow the Admirals...thats personal space.

Jeff Ritsema · Post by **Jeff Ritsema** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 4:48 am

Two things:
one, add a little fabric softener- a little goes along way- with the mild detergent- place in a pillow case and tie shut.

two: I have lost more than one expensive halyard or braided dock line dong this (the core of the line separates from the surrounding sheath) and discovered that it helps to coil the line tightly and add a few extra ties to snug the bundle up well. Try one line at a time and do one of the old lines first.
Wring ou some of the water and let the line air dry.

Tripp Gal · Post by **Tripp Gal** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 8:52 am

are you talking about the bitter ends where you should have a whiplock? Did you throw the lines in the dryer?

If you didn't throw the lines in the dryer but the cover walked back from the core that is an extremely easy fix. In the future, take the halyard/line and from the end with the shackle, hook it to something strong and sturdy and wrap your hands around the line and squeeze as you "milk" the cover back (away from the shackle). This will take a signifcant amount of pressure depending on the line type to make sure you are getting the cover taught against the cover again. Then once the cover is walked all the way to the bitter end, you can whiplock the ends of the line. A whiplock stitch is superior to burning or a standard whipping as it stitches the cover to the core so no future creep happens. Cost of a good sturdy needle and whipping twine? Under 5 dollars. That amount of line will last you through 15 whiplock stitches. A worthwhile investment.

Jeff Ritsema · Post by **Jeff Ritsema** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 1:41 pm

Tripp Gal wrote:are you talking about the bitter ends where you should have a whiplock? Did you throw the lines in the dryer?

If you didn't throw the lines in the dryer but the cover walked back from the core that is an extremely easy fix. In the future, take the halyard/line and from the end with the shackle, hook it to something strong and sturdy and wrap your hands around the line and squeeze as you "milk" the cover back (away from the shackle). This will take a signifcant amount of pressure depending on the line type to make sure you are getting the cover taught against the cover again. Then once the cover is walked all the way to the bitter end, you can whiplock the ends of the line. A whiplock stitch is superior to burning or a standard whipping as it stitches the cover to the core so no future creep happens. Cost of a good sturdy needle and whipping twine? Under 5 dollars. That amount of line will last you through 15 whiplock stitches. A worthwhile investment.

The cover separated from the core at numerous points along the line, not only at the bitter ends; too many points that prompted trashing the lines. In subsequent tries I haven't had that happen when I used Zip ties to better bundle the line before putting in the pillow case.

Duane Dunn, Allegro · Post by **Duane Dunn, Allegro** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 2:39 pm

The cover of a line is not really attached to the core at all, anywhere. You can cut a line at any point and easily separate the cover and the core. This is why you can milk it as tripgal describes. It's also what lets you splice a line and put in eyes on a line. To do both of these you separate the core from the cover. This can be done at any point in the line.

Get yourself a good fib and instructions an you can put some nice eyes on your lines over the winter.

I have this kit. It's cool to have great spliced eyes rather than knots at the end of your lines, particularly if you do it yourself. It does take some practice though.

MacGregorSailors.com

MacGregorSailors.com

Smelly Sheets!!!

Smelly Sheets!!!

stinky sheets