Air Conditioner - other ideas?

[jschrade]

I have seen the modifications for mounting the air conditioner in the companionway via a cut-out board but that is likely beyond my skills and a little too hard to stow.

My thought is to essentially sit the air conditioner right on top of the traveler heading into the cabin. Obviously providing a platform for it to sit on. Then just create a cut-out (in multiple pieces) to fill where the cabin slide in door would normally be. It would seem that this would be the simplest way to set this up and my intent if to try and find an A/C that would fit in one of the cockpit wells. with the door pieces. Has anyone gone down this path? This thought came when I was looking at some modifications where the cabin door was cut into pieces to make it easier to stow.

I'd love one of the carry on type A/C's but at $999 that is not going to happen.


Jim

[bluehawk]

Jim,
I did go down this path for the reasons you stated. I too have an M model, and several years ago I bought a 5,000 BTU window unit at the end of the season for about $60. I sit it right on top of the traverler, but you have to be careful to get the right tilt so the condensed water flows away from the cabin out to the cockpit. It took a little trial and error with build ups, etc, but once I got it right, I made the block a little more permanent, and then cut out a 1/8 piece of plywood to fit around the A/C where the hatch would go. I then spray painted these pieces enamal white, and although not real perfect and pretty, I am the envy of others around the marina that have no A/C when the temps and humidity soar. I only need to use this a handful of times each season, and when not in use I store the A/C and extra pieces in our dock box. Someday I may try to improve on the aesthetics, but for now, it is more about economic function and comfort than looking good. Of course, with this unit we need to be on shore power, and it is a little bit of a pain to haul out and set up, step over, etc, but most definitely well worth it for those handful of sweltering days/nights.
Dean

[TAW02]

Of course window units are cheap and very effective at cooling down a cabin in those hot humid nights, I prefer to add in a more permanent AC unit. One that has its place and is ready on a moments notice.

Here is a Haier Unit I purchased at Target for 350bucks. It's 10K BTU's and kicks butt. For a small space like the 26M cabin, she cycles on and off like a whole house unit. Required installation was carefully removing the housing and bolting the base of the unit directly over the rear sink locker space, but the I ran the condensation line into the sink drain pipe and the exhaust under the bilge to the back of the boat. Runs well on shore power of course, but will run easily on a 2K digital generator while out in remote areas at anchor. I've actually used a two stroke 1000 watt generator I purchased from Northern Tool. It was able to pull up a load at a rated 1200 watt. I was skeptable of course since the Haier Unit pulls 900 Watts, but she did it and allowed the unit to cycle several times until the internal pressure built up to a point where the compressor needed more starting power to kick in.

So the key trick is to start the system up and run the thermostat all the way down. Since it will never make it that cool in 99 degree summer nights, she will pump ice cold until the gen runs out of gas (3 hours later). By that time I am sound asleep and won't wake for another few hours. Then the DC fan goes on until sunup and skeeters are gone. I eat breakfast. Gassup the generator and recharge the batteries. Do dishes and plan the day away ... set sail et cetra.



Big T

[Hardcrab]

At first glance, your idea would seem to have a net cooling gain of zero or worse, by keeping the hot air from the unit captured in the boat along with the cold air.

[TAW02]

At first glance, your idea would seem to have a net cooling gain of zero or worse, by keeping the hot air from the unit captured in the boat along with the cold air.

Mr Hardcrab, you are so very correct to point that out. Yes as I was configuring the unit, it states in the brochure that exhaust air from the condenser need not be piped out if in dehumidifier mode. WRONG. Used that mode and the next day when I opened the boat it was a gazzilion degrees inside! I really don't know what they meant when they specified that. But anyway, the heat that is radiated off of the exhaust hose is appreciable to the point that if not insulated it will indeed subtract from the cool the unit is putting out. So therefore it is important that the flexible exhaust hose be insulated.

I wasn't too clear as how I did that and so to be clear on that important point I will say that what I did (and what works well) is, I ran the flexible hose under the rear berth space beneath the flooring panels. A small section is is a plastic riser resembling a square ductwork to the outlet port just above the steering rod that exits the stern bulkhead. The ductwork has a foil/foam insulation which keep most of the heat below. If the cushions and liner covers are remove you will feel the trapped heat escaping from the flexible exhaust piping. It would be akin to removing the ceiling out of you home and allowing the attic heat to run up the cost of the AC.

Big T

[jschrade]

I had thought about one of those A/C's but I haven't seen a good story on putting one on a boat yet. From what I have read a little 5,000 BTU window A/C will turn a Mac into an ice chest on a hot day and I believe most could fit in a cockpit locker.

If I went the route of one of these room A/C's I would run the exhaust via the cabin door into the cockpit. I still suspect the unit itself gets quite warm.

Jim

[vkmaynard]

jschrade do you have an M or an X?

[jschrade]

2010 26M

Jim

[paj637]

I have a 5000 btu window ac that I use on my 2006 . I made a cutout companion way door out of cardboard first then out of luan for a temporary model and eventually want to glass over the luan for a more permanent door. The ac unit is small enough that you could step over it if need be. I just set it so that the front lip of the unit sits on the bottom of the companion way door and have a spacer under the rear of the ac unit. The luan door just slides right down over the unit and I have a few cut foam strips to fill the 1/4 inch gaps on the sides. It is flush to the top of the unit. I have used it a couple of times on the trailer, working inside the cabin in the summer and at a marina twice. I was able to work comfortably in the cabin of my blue hull at 78 degrees when it was 95 degrees and we put the ac unit in position with it on low when we were ready to close up for the night in the marina. A boom tent to shade as much of the cabin as possible and covering the topside windows really helps alot out also.

[paj637]

By the way, I tried the portable ac units with the single exhaust ducting. It was my experience that it pulled alot of warm air into the cabin through any and all airgaps. I stow the 5000 btu unit aft of the galley when I take it aboard.

[vkmaynard]

Contact Erik Hardtle on this website. He has a CruiseAir for sale at $300 OBO on www.ncsail.org

[Erik Hardtle]

I have used the CruisAir in the front hatch and the main hatch and it works fine both ways. It runs fine using a 2000w generator (mine is a used Honda generator)

I would have kept using it but I couldn't resist the custom unit that Billy made.

[Slamjammer]

How about a marine air/heat unit? The unit in my SeaRay Sundancer 290 is very small and compact, and looks like it could easily be fitted under a dinette seat. Of course you won't do it for $300, but the finished product would be sweet

[blue angel]

there might be some options related to the low draw smaller units now used in lance 825s and other small pick up campers, designed to run on one of the small honda generators, some seem to be even designed to run for a while on batter only, see
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/viewto ... f=2&t=4420

and this guy
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/thread ... erator-a-c


said Ah, already researched this. I run a Coleman Polar Cub 9000 BTU and it consumes 9 amps at full load. I use a Honda EU2000i which was rated for 13.2 amps. A larger AC unit runs closer to 13 and some up to 15. But I see the same generator now is rated for 16.3 amps. So basically, you will need a 2000 watt unit minimum. Basically, if its a 15,000 BTU, it will consume about 15 amps, 13,000, about 13 amps. This is kinda what I saw when looking for this same answer. So you will need to know which AC system you have or plan to buy. But I'd say the Honda EU2000i would do it. But dont plan on running too much more loads with it running. Lights, batt charging is fine, but dont fire up the microwave

anywone try any of these on a mac, probably too big above evenfor a temporary hatch install?

[Tahoe Jack]

Check out my mod http://macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=693 where I use a common 5k btu Costco-sourced AC mounted in a removable companion way hatch. No special tools or skills required. BTW, I posted a second mod with more pics. It works well and can be slipped off and stored in your garage off-season or cooler weather. I too have a Honda 2000. Tahoe Jack