You can see it here. Stay outside of the ballast "channel-ribs" on each side...
Also, IMHO, regarding Kevin's warning about powerboats and skegs: I believe that to be absolutely true for deeper skegs. Powerboat skegs, to my knowledge, are not deeper than the propeller centerline. This way, on turns, the prop is still pushing from below the skeg, forcing the boat to a more upright position. There's always the possibility of "skidding" any boat under power and rolling it. Hard chines aren't much different from shallow skegs in that situation.
Also, FWIW, I've considered John's bow skeg idea in the past. To me, that's what would really help keep a heading when motoring. Power boats almost all have a narrow entry at the bow that blades through the water, compared to a Mac. It would be nice if the skeg retracted when sailing, because then it just creates turbulance. But in the end, I just use the rudders and partial daggerboard when motoring slow, and all-boards-up when motoring fast. I've gotten used to the quirkiness.
I have thought about making a 12-16" skeg out of say one of these white plastic cutting boards and attaching it to some sort of bra bridal and temp attach it with a sling tied to the deck in front of the D/B & try it out
But my future weighted winged D/B is coming first ! after I finnish the mods I have on the go right now first
Rather than putting a small skeg on that would act as a fin keel and be not much better that what is already there a better proposition would be a full length keel about 3 inches deep for the length of the vessel tapering off at the bow
This would give you directional stability however for taking ground and loading on a trailer might prove difficult. You would have to modify the trailer somewhat.
Good idea but may not be too practical
If installed it would be ahead of the D/B & would be retractable into the V-berth if the experiment was to work out fine but i agree would be costly & better & cheaper ways could be applied on an X one could be easily attached to the C/B .
I would most likely go with two out rigged D/B in front of the mast for high pointing while sailing .
would not one length of that keel guard stuff that sticks to the hull or even that splash stuff that sticks also to the hull not work how much does it protrude "depth" into the water maybe someone who has this stuff applied to thier hull could elaberate !
The MacX already has a skeg, lower the centerboard down 8 inches and works great.
On a MacM if you put a thin skeg aft it will interfer with your motor prop. causeing air pockets.
Not recomended
Dave
as time goes by wrote:Has anyone fitted a small skeg under the hull to help with steering at low speed ,to alleviate such problems as docking or putting on the trailer in windy conditions. I find that the boat wanders badly as soon as the board and rudders are raised.
I,m sure that if the skeg was kept fairly small in depth,say 100 to 150 mm and tapered down at the forward end to 10mm and around 1.5 to 2metres long ,it would not interfere with launching and retreiving.
I guess the rear of the skeg would need to be around 500mm to a metre forward of the outboard leg to stop any cavitation problems.
cheers from As Time Goes By
Hobart,Tasmania
The new hull has a deeper V bottom (15 degrees), rather than the flatter bottom of the older boat (8 degrees).
The purpose of the deep V shape is to give the boat a softer ride under power, with less slamming against choppy seas. It also provides a moderate reduction in wetted surface, which benefits the boat’s sailing ability.
The V bottom has softer corners at the transom, and, at typical angles of heel, the corners dig in less and create a less turbulent wake.
The deeper V bottom keeps the boat from sliding around on the trailer, and gives better tracking under power.
The more pronounced centerline ridge provides a stiffer hull bottom.
I wouldn't think an would need a skeg. I think the handles pretty well. The original post for this thread was for slow speed control/handling...where a skeg is not going to do much good IMHO.
When I leave the dock and return, I use my depth finder to alert me where The bottom is and adjust the board when needed.
When I put the boat on ( and take her off of ) the trailer , I handle her instead of motoring her. I've been in 2 ft of water and pulled her out.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
All boats need some sort of lateral resistance.
Hull shape alone won't always do it especially in the Macs the X is worse because of the shape of the hull.
Although the x has a better sailing hull, under power it slides around a lot so you need to keep the board down a bit to give lateral resistance
I had occasion to fit a full length keel to a 65ft boat years ago as you couldn't go alongside a jetty without slamming into it.
Had the same problem as the Macs sliding around all over the place
Made a big difference you didn't slam into jetty any more.
I also had a 16ft canoe
I spent half my time trying to keep a straight course
I fitted a keel 3/4 inch deep the length of the canoe and the difference it made was amazing it used to track straight after that
With a lot less paddling
Jim, a hard chine boat is much more stable than a rounded bildge, that why a more flater bottom will produce a better planning hull and less heel.
The difffence between a 8 degree V hull and a 12 degree will be noticed in a MacX than a MacM but to plane the hulls, a MacX takes less power. A MacM would be best for beating to winward in open water but lacks the dockage windward ability to dock as the daggerboard is center location were the Macx is centerboard leaving the deep end for skeg.
I guess it's a mater of choice and thin waters you navigate in.
Both these boat are not designed for a skeg and if you do so will only put you outboard on lower speed.
Dave
c130king wrote:Dave,
From the Macgregor website:
A DEEPER V SHAPE IN THE BOTTOM OF THE HULL
The new hull has a deeper V bottom (15 degrees), rather than the flatter bottom of the older boat (8 degrees).
The purpose of the deep V shape is to give the boat a softer ride under power, with less slamming against choppy seas. It also provides a moderate reduction in wetted surface, which benefits the boat’s sailing ability.
The V bottom has softer corners at the transom, and, at typical angles of heel, the corners dig in less and create a less turbulent wake.
The deeper V bottom keeps the boat from sliding around on the trailer, and gives better tracking under power.
The more pronounced centerline ridge provides a stiffer hull bottom.
I wouldn't think an would need a skeg. I think the handles pretty well. The original post for this thread was for slow speed control/handling...where a skeg is not going to do much good IMHO.
would need a skeg. I think the 