Anchor Rode

[nedmiller]

I use 30 ft. of 1/4" high test chain and then play out enough nylon to make at least 7:1 if at all possible. The nylon rope does stretch so a snubber isn't really needed. More chain means better holding and if there is coral then you have enough chain so your nylon never is rubbing on the coral. I think the all chain isn't practical for the way we use our Mac and my shoulder wouldn't like my trying to pull it all up! I do have an option in case I'm facing really strong winds. We carry two small 'mud anchors' that we put on our Rocker Stoppers. Those can be attached to the chain near the end where the nylon line is attached and act as a "kellit" --the effect is supposed to be similar to adding more chain. I've never actually had to try it though!
SILK

[Hamin' X]

Actually, all chain will have a great deal of shock absorption, as it lay in a curve from anchor to boat. wave action will tend to straighten out this curve and gravity will bring it back. The main disadvantage to a lot of chain, is the weight in the boat and pulling it in, not shock absorption.

~Rich

[waternwaves]

The lunch hook works quite well as a kellet

[opie]

Lots of good advice here on anchors. I did want to make one comment for those still deciding what anchor to use. If you choose to use an anchor larger than the capacity of the Mac anchor locker, you do not necessarily have to mod your bow locker to accommodate it or install an anchor roller. I use a 22# Bruce in the bow. Under way, I stow the anchor, 15' of chain and 150' rode in the locker and close the cover to about 45 degrees and bungee cord the cover so it does not swing open. It is not in the way of the foresail. On the trailer, I stow the Bruce inside the boat.

As for questioning the strength of the forward cleats, I do not know if they are inherently weak or not. What I do when anchoring overnight or in a blow, is to tie the rode(s) to the bow eye. Nothing will pull that eye loose and the scope angle is improved. I usually use two anchors just to sleep better. Both are Bruces. I keep a Lewmar fluke type anchor onboard also. I have seen times when the fluke held better than the Bruce.

[Québec 1]

Thanks Opie,

when anchoring overnight or in a blow, is to tie the rode(s) to the bow eye. Nothing will pull that eye loose and the scope angle is improved. .

I did not think of that, and it makes imminent sense. I always try to find options which aid navigation but require no modifications. I also love to find things that serve more than one purpose.
Q!

[opie]

Q,

just to note that the bitter end of each rode is cleated off on top, of course....

[curtiss]

I would like to add a comment to those that tie their anchor to the bow eye that they give some thought to being able to release the anchor completely from the boat in and emergency. If you are dragging on the rocks, beach or someone is dragging on you, then you want to get loose from your anchor quickly. Hopefully you can bouy the bitter end with a fender etc. and come back to pick it up later. Also think about being able to let out more scope if necessary. You may want to use a line tied to the eye and connect it to your main anchor line with a rollling hitch. This way you can still utilize the strength of the bow eye and it's lower attachment point while still having control over the rode.

[opie]

Curtiss,

Good comment. Can you draw me a picture....? not sure how to do what you are saying....

[KayakDan]

When we go to the Bahamas,my primary rig will be a 25lb Manson(absolutely love this anchor!) 50ft of 5/16" galv chain,and 125ft of nylon rode. Since most of our anchoring will be in 4-6 ft of water,we will often be on all chain,and I am using a 24" Shockle as a snubber. We also had a beefier cleat installed when we upgraded the anchor roller. We have been using Shockles for several years as a snubber for our dinghy line when towing,and it works great.
This setup may sound like overkill,but the wind was blowing 30+ when a front passed thru Red Shanks harbor yesterday.
Bahamas-you need a serious anchor-and a serious dinghy.
http://www.shockles.com/products/shockles.cfm

[curtiss]

Opie

I am not too good at drawing so I took some pictures of what I was talking about. My boat is in the storage yard now so I set the anchor out on the gravel so you could see the set up. There are several ways to work with the snubber line and I have set up two alternatives. First you can have a fixed length of line tied or shackled to the bow eye and then tie the rolling hitch to the rode. Let the rode out until the strain is taken up by the snubber. You may be able to use the "Shockles" shock absorber mentioned in this forum with the fixed snubber line. I am intrigued by this item and may have to explore it further. Make sure to cleat the rode off also in case the snubber breaks under load.

The second way is to lead the snubber line through the bow eye up to the deck cleat and control it from the deck. You attach it to the rode with a rolling hitch the same way as before. Make sure to tie the bitter end of the rode so that it is easy to get at and untie or cut for emergency release. I've put a picture in to show you how I have mine set up to give you some idea how it can be done. I hope the pictures help but let me know if you have any other questions.

http://s943.photobucket.com/albums/ad276/sailorbryant/

[opie]

Curtiss,
The Shockles product that Dan showed looks good as you say.

Now the pictures you sent me are very instructive. I do have one question that came to me after studying your pictures. Using your principal idea, would the following setup seem to be salty enough to work?

[nedmiller]

I'm loving this idea. I can imagine it being rather awkward setting it up, but then your rode could be a bit shorter. I'm thinking that if you tied a milk jug or an extra fender to the rode where it connects, it would float the rode if you had to let the anchor loose in an emergency. Thanks for the great idea!
SILK

[curtiss]

Opie

Don't see why it wouldn't work. Two things come to mind though. You might get more chafe on your main rode at the bow eye with this method and the second is that it might be a little more cumbersome retrieving your anchor rode and chain. I would say give it a try and see what works best for you as there is virtually no cost in trying each method. The way I showed you in my pictures I have used extensively while cruising with an all chain rode and it has worked very well. I think the snubber attached with rolling hitch will work well on the nylon rode to reduce chafe at the anchor roller as well as allowing a lower attachment point at the bow eye. I plan on giving it a try on my trip to Mexico in April and will give you feed back on how it works out.

Fair winds

[terescova]

How do you make an anchor shaped cupcake cake? I want to make a birthday cake in the shape of an anchor, but out of cupcakes. Any photos or instructions would be helpful. Thanks.
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[Russ]

Wow! Some of you have a LOT of chain. Chain provides weight which lowers the angle and it also prevents chafe on stuff on the bottom. In a perfect world we would use 100% chain, but try hauling all that up and storing it in your anchor locker.

Anchoring guide

I've never heard chain causing anchors to get stuck on submerged trees and such, the anchor shape does that all on its own.
Here is an interesting product to unstick an anchor hooked onto something. Some people put a pendant on for this purpose, but honestly, few have the patience to set this kind of thing up.

As for the Chesapeake bay, if memory serves, it's mostly a very muddy bottom and well suited for traditional anchors (danforth, plow, bruce) and with a modest amount of chain (10-12') should provide good holding ground. The key to holding is scope and angle. In fact, the way to pull an anchor out is to reduce the scope and pull the flukes up and out.

--Russ