I know is going to brake down into a white vs. blue augment but with so much talk about the Mac trailer failing thought I throw this out there…
We are about to pull the trigger on a new trailer and the one thing we haven’t heard is the pros and cons of galvanized vs. aluminum. What are your thoughts on one vs the other. Price seems to be about the same on both.
Aluminum is definitely lighter, but I have this nagging thought about electrolytic corrosion ... the trailer's frame is aluminum, but the fasteners, axles, hitch, etc., are steel. Add brackish Bay water and ...?
Do we even have any significant number of aluminum trailers at Casa Rio Marina?
There's a trailer-repair place up in Annapolis, IIRC. Lynn at Casa Rio has their phone number. Might be worth more to talk with someone who actually has seen the problems with both materials, but isn't there to sell you what he's got in the lot.
I do think that Dave's "done right by me," and I feel my galvanized Sea Lion trailer is quite satisfactory to my needs. The "Erector-set" build - fabricate, then hot-dip galvanize, then bolt together the pieces - seems like it will be well-protected from corrosion. But you know I haven't had it off the lot since the day I brought it down to the marina. Maybe an aluminum trailer would have been a better choice ... maybe not, but I hope I don't "find out the hard way"!
Good point on the electrolytic corrosion, while it's true that they are in the minority at Caso Rio, I do see quite a few rolling down the hyways. Dave's is on my short list of dealers to talk to or have already talked to. It'll be easier to explain the boat to them as they have already set one up, "...hey budy I'll have what he's having..."
I had the same issue in my head when my trailers died. I had to replace my MacGregor 19 trailer first, and at the time the aluminum trailers were just coming out, there was a lot of uncertainity about longevity. Then I remember seeing an abandonded galvanized trailer sitting in the lot from like the 60's and it looked good with only the springs rusted away. So I decided to get a galvanized for the 19, had it for 8 years with no problems.
So again I had to go through the same decision process again when my 26 trailer bit the dust recently. I did some research and the idea of "fatigue damage" from the bouncing and bending of the aluminum made me get another galvanized trailer.
Roger MacGregor does make some noise about his stock trailers being "low for easy launching & retrieval", and I will admit that I have to wade out a little farther to hook the winch-strap of my new SeaLion trailer into the bow of Bossa Nova. So maybe it makes sense to look at the trailer's height, as well.
Galvanized steel will have a couple of inches' height advantage, because steel is tougher than aluminum. When I was shopping, I remember that the aluminum trailers' frames were a couple of inches taller than the frame for a similar-rated steel trailer.
Another item affecting height is the suspension - which is why I went for torsion-bar axles rather than leaf springs. Cost me a couple hundred dollars' more, but I believe it was worth it and I'd do it again.
As I'd said above, I don't believe aluminum will have a significant "corrosion-proof advantage" over hot-dip galvanized steel, put together "erector-set" fashion. Either will have a HUGE advantage over the old painted-steel trailers. I don't expect the next owner will have any trouble with Bossa Nova's trailer, either, when I finish hauling the boat all over the USA and finally sell it to buy me a "floating condo"...
The one good thing I see with the Mac aluminum trailer is everything is simply bolted together.
Any failed pieces could be replaced with little headache.
Adding a second torsion axle would be so easy.
The axel on the new mac alumium trailer is galvanished and the fenders are f/g. It has disc brakes that do not need a washer attachment to clean out the salt water like the old steel models, just wash it down with clean water.
I think if the 2000 X boat came with an alumium trailer I would not be replacing it 8 years later.
BK wrote:It has disc brakes that do not need a washer attachment to clean out the salt water like the old steel models, just wash it down with clean water.
Can somebody explain this for me? I have a 2004/5 steel trailer. I do not know about any washer attachment. I just rinse out the wheels (inside and outside) everytime I pull the trailer out of the drink. Should I be doing something different?
Thanks,
Jim
(* With all the gloom and doom I have been hearing the last month or so over trailers bending/breaking/rusting etc... I am getting scared to take my boat anywhere *)
Next winter when we have time I will look at having the trailer Galvanized, if the trailer dies for some reason then I look at getting launching the boat and replacing it with Ali.
Jim - drum brakes need a hose attachment so you can flush the inside out with fresh water after immersion. They really also need to pulled apart each season and cleaned and lubed, or else they will freeze up on you.
When I lost my axle last year, I replaced the drums on my 2002X trailer with Kodiak Cd-plated discs...they are great!!
Aluminium looks good, but you really can't go past a trailer built out of 4X2 tubing then hot dipped galvanised FROM NEW...PLUS GALVANISED SPRINGS AND HUBS...
This is not a trailer, but imagine the same robustness built into a steel trailer made FOR the
puggsy wrote:Aluminium looks good, but you really can't go past a trailer built out of 4X2 tubing then hot dipped galvanised FROM NEW...PLUS GALVANISED SPRINGS AND HUBS...
This is not a trailer, but imagine the same robustness built into a steel trailer made FOR the
Uncle Jim doesn't have to imagine it. He's seen my 4x3 tubing, hot-dip galvanized, torsion-bar axle SeaLion trailer:
I have had both and they are both good, I now have a tandum axel aluiminum trailer on my Mac.X and use it only in salt water with no problems with electrolisis after 2 years. The Trailer weighs 999lbs but I added surge stainless disk front brakes that adds about 30-40 lbs more. I never had a problem in launching and rear truck tires is about 4-6 ft. away from water edge. Trailer cost me $2850 and brakes I installed $500.
Tows much easier than my previous single axel trailers with Potter 19, Compac 19 and other boats .
It probably sits about 4 inches higher than the Mac. trailer but has a longer tounge than the Mac.
Dave
Uncle Jim wrote:I know is going to brake down into a white vs. blue augment but with so much talk about the Mac trailer failing thought I throw this out there…
We are about to pull the trigger on a new trailer and the one thing we haven’t heard is the pros and cons of galvanized vs. aluminum. What are your thoughts on one vs the other. Price seems to be about the same on both.
I was hoping someone would have a custom aluminum under an , I have been looking at the wesco, made in SC there's a couple of dealers just south of the VA boarder and Hi-Tech Marine in Pensicola with dealers in both FL and Richmnod VA. At this point I'm leaning toward the Wesco. Disks brakes and stainless steel fittings on trailer and I'll be adding the torson bar axels. I'll be talking with the dealer again on Monday. If all goes well I'll have it in Clearwater FL for the holidays
Kelly Hanson East wrote:Jim - drum brakes need a hose attachment so you can flush the inside out with fresh water after immersion. They really also need to pulled apart each season and cleaned and lubed, or else they will freeze up on you.
When I lost my axle last year, I replaced the drums on my 2002X trailer with Kodiak Cd-plated discs...they are great!!
Stephen,
Thanks. I guess I have disc brakes...I am not a very mechanically inclined guy so I am not sure. It is a standard Mac steel trailer made in 2004. I don't know of any attachment.
If (or should I say when??? ) my trailer gives up the ghost I will probably get a dual axle trailer...just seems "better" (whatever that means in this case).