Honda 50 and E Fuels

[Captain Jim]

KHE,

New York State Law currently allows marinas to sell marine grade gasoline(No Ethanol). My experience is that all the marinas on Lake George currently sell marine grade gasoline.

Fair winds,

Jim

[Kelly Hanson East]

Thanks Jim.. this was true down the Hudson too, at least as far as Kingston NY. I havent used enough gas this year to have to fill a lot though


btw I was in Loveland a few months ago for an anniversary - what a nice area! Loved all the green and the people who let you into traffic when you signal...

[jcasale]

Greetings

After speaking with the local Honda rep I decided to run 16oz of Seafoam mixed with 8 gallons of fuel. This is slightly more than what the manf recommends but they also state over treating will not harm anything. I had 8 gallons of old fuel left and figured what the hull. I did notice an increase in smoke for the first 30-40 minutes but that cleared up. I can honestly say the engine runs smoother, has improved holeshot and idles significantly smoother than before the treatment. In fact I had previously adjusted the idle higher to prevent stalling but now will adjust it lower because it sounds like it is idling too high (I have no gauge and am using the Mark IV Audio Ear tachometer).
I will fill the tanks this weekend and treat both of them with Marine Stabil. The Honda rep advised me to use the Seafoam to clean the system and the Marine Stabil as a maint/preventative measure (He also recomends the Starbrite Startron but I had already purcheased the Stabil).
Just my .02

John

[DaveB]

I have a 1997 BF50 on my Mac.X I bought 2 yrs ago. It always was hard start and learned one has to lift the fast idle lever all the way up to engage the choke, if you don't hear a click in the engine lifting it up the selinoid is not working and you have to pull the cover and push down the choke arm. This is the rod that connects all 3 carbs.
I than cleaned all carb connections and sprayed CRC and than greased all fittings. The fast idle lever now engages the selinoid and always a quick start.
I have been useing 89 octane with up to 10% ethinol for 2 yrs and never a problem, the engine runs smooth thru all the rpm's. Sometimes fuel will be in tanks for 3 mo. as I sail more than motor and never added a additive.
Dave

Greetings

After speaking with the local Honda rep I decided to run 16oz of Seafoam mixed with 8 gallons of fuel. This is slightly more than what the manf recommends but they also state over treating will not harm anything. I had 8 gallons of old fuel left and figured what the hull. I did notice an increase in smoke for the first 30-40 minutes but that cleared up. I can honestly say the engine runs smoother, has improved holeshot and idles significantly smoother than before the treatment. In fact I had previously adjusted the idle higher to prevent stalling but now will adjust it lower because it sounds like it is idling too high (I have no gauge and am using the Mark IV Audio Ear tachometer).
I will fill the tanks this weekend and treat both of them with Marine Stabil. The Honda rep advised me to use the Seafoam to clean the system and the Marine Stabil as a maint/preventative measure (He also recomends the Starbrite Startron but I had already purcheased the Stabil).
Just my .02

John

[opie]

I have my carbs apart now on the workbench and I was waiting to get them back into the BF50A outboard before I commented on this thread, but I read DaveB's note and wanted to chime in. I recently had the #2 carb quit producing fuel. I took all the carbs off and disassembled them and purchased new jets to go back in. But after 4 years of ownership on a 1999 engine, and using the cheapest car gas I could find for all that time (Go-Gas and Kangaroo gas, each with Ethanol), the carbs were very clean with no gunk or junk or sludge or build-up. The only soil I could find was a bit of dark smudge, sorta like soot from a candle, in the float bowls. But so fine that it could not clog anything. I am thinking I had a solid bit of material in my main jet that disappeared during the cleaning process and air-blowout. I'll post what happens when I get the carbs back in. And I have purchased a better external gas filter to install. But, I can not understand all the discussion about Ethanol and sludge and gunk. My Honda manual says Ethanol is OK. I used junk gas for 4 years and had periods of months between usage. And no sludge or gunk at all in my carbs. They always worked great until this latest problem. Anyway, that is my 2 cents....... I certainly plan to use cheap gas in the future, Ethanol or whatever the lowest priced street gas station is selling, and I have never used SeaFoam. It probably has the outboard manufacturers scratching their heads as to why people would buy snake-oil like that to put into an engine that is designed for some percentage of Ethanol.

[jcasale]

Dave,
I am not familiar with CRC and an internet search brought me to company website with too many products to choose from, can you be more specific?
TIA
John

[DaveB]

CRC formula 6-56 spray lube that doesn't evaporate like WD40. My favorite is Boeshield T-9 but I didn't have any at the time.
You can find both at West Marine.
Dave

Dave,
I am not familiar with CRC and an internet search brought me to company website with too many products to choose from, can you be more specific?
TIA
John

[DaveB]

Opie, it's the gaskets and seals in older engines that may have a problem with 10% ethanol.These engines are 15 yrs or older that may develope this problem. I agree with you and the only problem I see is water in the tank after long layover.
I do know that useing ethanol shortens the life of gasoline and if one plans to not use the fuel in 4 mo. to drain the tank and carbs to prevent varnish buildup. I have used sta- bil and other fuel additives to prolong the fuel life in other equipment I have (generators,dingy outboard,other items I don't use often) but it only adds a couple of mo. and thats streatching it as the fuel still breaks down.
The chemicals they use in todays fuel and oil has a shelve life before some of the additives break down.
Dave

I have my carbs apart now on the workbench and I was waiting to get them back into the BF50A outboard before I commented on this thread, but I read DaveB's note and wanted to chime in. I recently had the #2 carb quit producing fuel. I took all the carbs off and disassembled them and purchased new jets to go back in. But after 4 years of ownership on a 1999 engine, and using the cheapest car gas I could find for all that time (Go-Gas and Kangaroo gas, each with Ethanol), the carbs were very clean with no gunk or junk or sludge or build-up. The only soil I could find was a bit of dark smudge, sorta like soot from a candle, in the float bowls. But so fine that it could not clog anything. I am thinking I had a solid bit of material in my main jet that disappeared during the cleaning process and air-blowout. I'll post what happens when I get the carbs back in. And I have purchased a better external gas filter to install. But, I can not understand all the discussion about Ethanol and sludge and gunk. My Honda manual says Ethanol is OK. I used junk gas for 4 years and had periods of months between usage. And no sludge or gunk at all in my carbs. They always worked great until this latest problem. Anyway, that is my 2 cents....... I certainly plan to use cheap gas in the future, Ethanol or whatever the lowest priced street gas station is selling, and I have never used SeaFoam. It probably has the outboard manufacturers scratching their heads as to why people would buy snake-oil like that to put into an engine that is designed for some percentage of Ethanol.