New Aluminium Trailer ?

[Versatile]

Hi Versatile-

Sorry to hear about (and see!) your problem.

A couple of questions...

Is it possible that the boat was trailered with the ballast full and the yield strength of the axel exceeded (bending it)- giving the negative wheel camber? When the weight is removed (draining the ballast) the axel would not straighten again?

I think the weight of a full ballast would exceed the capacity of the trailer by a considerable margin. If the springs then bottom out the rated load capacity of the axel becomes significantly reduced, compounding the situation.

When you purchased the boat did you notice the camber problem and make mention of it at the time?

- Brian.

Okkkkkkkk … I understand now !

I tough that I had to keep the ballast when trailering and motoring and emptied it when I was sailing …

Thank you very much, from now on I will do things properly.

Sorry, I should have read the manual before … and know how to do a crash stop to bring the boat in position in the trailer !

Do you think I should empty the ballast before the winter arrives … because it will get down to 0°F out here ?

[Versatile]

crawl under your trailer read the part # on the id tag which is welded to the axle,it should read MACM003 UFP or something close. google Unique Functional Products the manufacturer of the axle and brakes.These people seem to be very customer consious and might step up with a new axle for you or a discount on a larger one, they make one with same dimensions but 6000# shipped to your door for less than 350.00 in az at least.You can do a simple axle swap in 2-3 hrs easy in your drive way. don't look for macgregor to do much for you as they're reputation is non-existant. Ray

Thanks Ray,

I am heading to the cottage and I will "crawl under the trailer and read the part #" I will post the axle number on my way back.

[Timmay]

Versatile;

You are as frustrated with your trailor problem as I have been in believing your claims

Yes, I'll be honest with you, I did not believe a word of what you were saying because I have a 2007 M26 with the deluxe aluminum trailor with surge brakes, boarding ladder and galvanized torsion axle and is rigid and true as railroad tracks. Tires are straight and true and she trailors beautifully.

However, I see your pictures and I am ASTOUNDED in what I SEE

YOU ARE SO RIGHT. YOU HAVE A PROBLEM

There is something different here. Something is not right I assure you. From what I can tell from your pictures, you have a genuine 26M aluminum trailor.

There are TWO versions of this trailor. The standard trailer has an aluminum frame, a painted torsion bar axle, fiberglass fenders and a bow stand with no boarding ladder.

The deluxe trailer is similar to the standard trailer, except that it has surge brakes, a galvanized torsion bar axle, aluminum brake caliper holders, zinc plated disc brake rotors, and a boarding ladder near the trailer hitch.

I am wondering if there is also a difference in loading capacity between the two versions in terms of axle size and weight handling capacity. The M26 weighs 2550 lbs empty. The deluxe trailor is rated for 2 tons or 4000lbs. This should tell you that your trailor should not be 'sway-back' under such a load as an empty M26. Yet ... aparently from your pictures, she is terribly overloaded

And now I see from yet another member of this discussion group (Man~ana) has also experienced similar drawbacks with the aluminum trailor. This has made me think twice about trailor reliability and whether or not it has something to do with the differences between the two trailor versions. That is, the Standard VS the Deluxe models. Is it possible that you gentlemen have the Standard Model And if so, would this explain a diffence between load capacities?

Big T

I am wondering if Big T has a point. I have a 2007 upgraded trailer and do not have the issue either. I wonder if the lower end trailer is not as strong. Here are pics and you can see the axle is not bent. I also wonder if it is the motor. I have a Yami 50 which I believe is only 275 lbs. Versatile, what size motor do you have?

[seahouse]

OK.....

So your answer would be that the trailer was perfectly good and able to hold the weight of the boat and accessories without distortion at the time you made the purchase, but something happened after that and we have to guess when and what that might be?

You are aware that we are here to try and help you solve this mystery if we can, right?

[kadet]

Phillip I think has a very good point I have a 2008 trailer and the axle does appear to bend ever so slightly up. I wonder if with the high quality control exercised at the Mac factory the axle in this case was installed upside down and over time it has gotten worse. I also had to spend a weekend mucking around with my torsion bar settings when I first got the boat to get the wheels sitting even in the wheel wells so may be torrsion is also out.

[Phillip]

I really hope I understand the above answers and comments correctly.

I believe there is 1,150lb of water ballast, which is over 500kg (half a tonne).
If you have had that much extra weight in the boat when trailer-ing, then I am surprised you only have the bend you have.
I had to get both boat and trailer weighed seperately last week. Trailer was 240kg and boat we believe 1,550-1,600kg (lot of gear in boat) so total was 1,800-1,850kg, well within the standard of the trailer.
If there has been another 500+kg of ballast in there, you would definitely have a problem on your hands.
You are way outside the trailer limits, especially if you trailer for some distance, and get the occasional bounce.

Kadet....about the axel being on upside down....I thought that myself at the time. If my memory serves me correctly, when you look at the axel you will see it can't be put on the wrong way around, nor upside down...I think there are 2 brackets stopping it....should have taken a picture.

If it is weight that has bowed it, then only solution is a new axel....could be wrong....just my views.

Cheers
Phillip

[kadet]

Kadet....about the axel being on upside down....I thought that myself at the time. If my memory serves me correctly, when you look at the axel you will see it can't be put on the wrong way around, nor upside down...I think there are 2 brackets stopping it....should have taken a picture...

Cheers
Phillip

Good point but it still could be the supplier put the brackets on the wrong side or if the supplier makes axels for several trailers perhaps the brackes are fitted by the trailer manufactor to suit. I noticed the brackets look specific for the aluminium I beam. Either way my axel definately bends up. And no amount or lack of ballast would cause it bend up . May be it's all the hot air in the boat making it float like a ballon or all the bull dust blowing in

It is a puzzle that I would like to know the answer to. All in all I don't mind the trailer though I am dubious about it's longevity even if the alloy won't rust. I have had to emergency brake with a flat tyre on the trailer with steel raining down on me from a truck that lost it's load on the motorway and the trailer performed admirably. I almost never have to MAC bump but I do sink the trailer and float the boat on and off. It is a bunk trailer not a roller trailer so it is not designed to pull the boat out of the water. The trailer must go to the boat not the otherway round

[Timmay]

I almost never have to MAC bump but I do sink the trailer and float the boat on and off. It is a bunk trailer not a roller trailer so it is not designed to pull the boat out of the water. The trailer must go to the boat not the otherway round

kadet,
Could you expand on what you mean by the trailer is not designed to pull the boat out of the water? I do the same thing, sink the trailer and float the boat on. Just curious about the pulling it out of water part. Thanks Timmay!!!

[kadet]

Timmay,
i.e. the boat only comes to the back or half way up the trailer before you have to resort to the motor or winch to pull the boat up onto the trailer and up to the winch post. This is common for a roller trailer as the rollers let the boat roll up the trailer. With a Mac trailer the bunks are not designed to pull the boat up with the winch if you have to do this the ramp is too shallow or the trailer is not far enough down the ramp. I normally attached a rope to the front of the boat and pull it onto the trailer by hand. The trailer is far enough into the water that it is only about 30-40cm short of the winch post before I have to winch it that last bit.

[TAW02]

Been checking out the photo on Versatile's trailer.

Closer inspection reveals (when you blow-up the picture), in the area of the boarding ladder, I found it appeared to be different than all other M26 Aluminum trailer models. I studied this area because it was one of the options between a 'Standard' trailer and a 'Deluxe' trailer. Among other options with the two are, surge brakes, axles and various anti-rust coatings.

Under the tarp, you get a view of the boarding ladder that extends down as far as the drawbar. Much lower than the Deluxe trailer model. Moreover, if you look closer, you will see that this ladder is actually bolted to the stand and not welded like the Deluxe model.

Could this be a modified Standard model trailer?

Could be ...

Could explain why Versatile is so upset with what easily appears to be sub-standard trailer works. I would be too!

Big T

[Timmay]

I just merged my photo with his to compare. Looks like there are differences... Almost looks like his upright is not boxed, but that could be the pic.

[Kelly Hanson East]

Cant be that much variation in the factory model, they are ISO 1975 IIRC....

[TAW02]

Cant be that much variation in the factory model, they are ISO 1975 IIRC....

Whaaaa

[Timmay]

Something I just noticed... My trailor has wooden blocks on both sides of the rear supports, his looks like it doesn't. This would definately cause more weight on the center of the axle.

It might be hidden by the tarp, but where are the front supports...

[Man~ana]

To add another variable to this issue, one also has to consider the condition of our highway system. My point is that the trailer has to be over designed and rugged enough to withstand highway speeds and a government maintained highway system or lack thereof.

When I pulled the boat from the dealer in Colorado to Windsor,(near Detroit) in late winter the Interstate highway was a mess. Even if they wanted to repair the road, they cannot carry out repairs in freezing weather and usually wait until the little void in the pavement becomes a "jawbreaker". It gets fixed when the weather is nice if at all in the same year.

If you are traveling at highway speed at night you cannot see the potholes. Sometimes you can see the concrete pieces but not the holes. You have no options. On more than one occasion I was knashing my teeth and swearing at the highway gods because of the condition of the road and the bottoming out of my truck and boat suspension.

During the day, you may see the potholes but surrounding traffic and high speed swerves are not going to get you any friends and will likely be fruitful breeding grounds for accidents and lawyers.

In most regions that have freezing weather you will find extreme roadway potholes from time to time (especially in the spring) and of course if you are pulling a Mac-trailer (pothole magnet) you will find them. I cannot imagine the dynamic force the suspension on the Mac trailer feels when you hit the "Grand Canyon" of all Interstate potholes. It must create permanent damage to an under designed suspension.

I suspect these terrible road conditions at highway speeds with a marginal trailer add to the permanent cambering of the wheels.

The trailers are simply too light for the high usage, the load and reality of highway road conditions.