12 volt freezers?
12 volt freezers?
I have been looking at both the WAECO COOLMATIC CF-50 and the ENGEL 45 12 volt freezers. The big difference for me seems to be the power draw. As far as I can tell the COOLMATIC draws 5 amps max. and the ENGEL draws 2.5 amps max. Is this difference worth worrying about. Other difference worth considering? Anyone have experience with either of these units.
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TampaMac
- Engineer
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The dealer for the Engel claimed that leaving it in the rain would damage it while the dealer for the other seemed to think his would be fine.
One could be lying but who knows.
I saw them both in person and the Engel doesn't seem as well built. Of course that is based on a whole five minutes of examination.
One could be lying but who knows.
I saw them both in person and the Engel doesn't seem as well built. Of course that is based on a whole five minutes of examination.
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Jeff Ritsema
- First Officer
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- Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
I don't know if this is on subject or off, but I have installed a Waeco Coolmatic refrigerator on my new boat, the 1.77 Cubic Ft size, and been very happy with it. It runs very quietly at night and cools very well, including the small frezzer compartment. My approach has been to store all of the perishables in the fridge, some of the meats in the freezer section, and to keep separately, the beverages in a conventional ice chest. We enjoy the "iced" approch to drinks and keep all aluminum can drinks in the cooler. This keeps the cheezes, meats, salads, etc. from being immersed in water, not to mention the ease by which you can get at things in a refrigerator. I wish I could give you an accuate account of the power consumption, only to say that it has not been an issue for my 2 AGM house batteries to deal with.
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richandlori
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Jeff,
How long have you ran the unit entirely off batteries? I would love to go with something like you have but worry about having enough power, even with my three batteries (orginal Mac mystery battery and two group 27DC 115 amp hrs from COSTCO).
If the COOLMATIC draws 5 amps max, is it right to calculate (help me here Moe) that my two 115 amp hr bats will be able to put out 5 amps for 46 hrs if I was to completely drain them? (115*2/5)
Rich
How long have you ran the unit entirely off batteries? I would love to go with something like you have but worry about having enough power, even with my three batteries (orginal Mac mystery battery and two group 27DC 115 amp hrs from COSTCO).
If the COOLMATIC draws 5 amps max, is it right to calculate (help me here Moe) that my two 115 amp hr bats will be able to put out 5 amps for 46 hrs if I was to completely drain them? (115*2/5)
Rich
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Kevin
- Engineer
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You really don't want to run those batteries all the way down. Don't want them to go below 50% actually.
I used the Dwen as a camping trailer for 4 days at a renaissance faire. I have a coleman 12v cooler (that is nowhere near so nice as these refrigerators) that I ran for the 4 days. I had solar panels out to help with the load. I ran the cooler only during the daylight hours. 3.9 amps average draw. Solar panels put out 1.9 amps or better during daylight hours.
I have a link 10 in the system which is worth it's weight in gold.
Milk stayed at a nice drinking temperature for all 4 days and at the end of the 4 days the 3 batteries (mixed bank. mystery starting battery. mystery deep cycle. costco AGM) were almost exactly at 50%.
2 days in the driveway with the solar panels deployed and no load put the bank back to 100%.
Now I need to test the system on a sailing vacation.
I used the Dwen as a camping trailer for 4 days at a renaissance faire. I have a coleman 12v cooler (that is nowhere near so nice as these refrigerators) that I ran for the 4 days. I had solar panels out to help with the load. I ran the cooler only during the daylight hours. 3.9 amps average draw. Solar panels put out 1.9 amps or better during daylight hours.
I have a link 10 in the system which is worth it's weight in gold.
Milk stayed at a nice drinking temperature for all 4 days and at the end of the 4 days the 3 batteries (mixed bank. mystery starting battery. mystery deep cycle. costco AGM) were almost exactly at 50%.
2 days in the driveway with the solar panels deployed and no load put the bank back to 100%.
Now I need to test the system on a sailing vacation.
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Pouw Geuzebroek
- Engineer
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richandlori
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dclark
- First Officer
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FWIW...A Link 10 is like a Link 20 but for only a single battery...It's basically a device that monitors battery condition. I believe it's made by Xantrex.
I just finished installing (if you want to call it that) an Engel 35 refrigerator/freezer ala Erik from this board. All in all I like it, but this model barely fits in the existing cooler liner. There is no way anything bigger would fit. I haven't seen the other models, etc, but I will say that this unit seems very solid and well built. The only thing I don't like about it is the hum and vibration it makes when it's on. Kind of echos through the bilge and takes a bit of getting used to. Although no worse the your fridge at home. Just takes a little getting used to.
I just finished installing (if you want to call it that) an Engel 35 refrigerator/freezer ala Erik from this board. All in all I like it, but this model barely fits in the existing cooler liner. There is no way anything bigger would fit. I haven't seen the other models, etc, but I will say that this unit seems very solid and well built. The only thing I don't like about it is the hum and vibration it makes when it's on. Kind of echos through the bilge and takes a bit of getting used to. Although no worse the your fridge at home. Just takes a little getting used to.
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Kevin
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A Xantrex Link 10 battery monitor was the first mod I put in the Dwen. It monitors a single batter bank reporting current battery voltage, amps drawn, cumulative amps drawn and time remaining to discharge. It also has a simple battery state at a glance bar.
http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/97/p/400/pt/1/product.asp
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... storeNum=9
The unit stores battery charge efficiency and use history if you get into the advanced functions.
The Link 10 can monitor multiple banks by wiring it through the battery selector switch but it messes up the history, so if you maintain 2 banks you should opt for the Link 20. I use the link 10 to monitor the house bank and take an occassional look at the starting battery since the Link 20 is substantially more expensive.
Once this unit is in the system you can properly evaluate the loads you put on the system and plan your consumption.
Much more reliable than draining the batteries until the lights go dim and then charging them up.
http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/97/p/400/pt/1/product.asp
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... storeNum=9
The unit stores battery charge efficiency and use history if you get into the advanced functions.
The Link 10 can monitor multiple banks by wiring it through the battery selector switch but it messes up the history, so if you maintain 2 banks you should opt for the Link 20. I use the link 10 to monitor the house bank and take an occassional look at the starting battery since the Link 20 is substantially more expensive.
Once this unit is in the system you can properly evaluate the loads you put on the system and plan your consumption.
Much more reliable than draining the batteries until the lights go dim and then charging them up.
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richandlori
- Admiral
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Brokenlegdave has the Link 10 for $184 and the Link 20 for $279.
These meters put a low-resistance, high-wattage shunt (resistor) of known value in the battery ground line. They measure the tiny voltage drop across it and convert that into the amount of current (amps) going through the shunt.
What makes these meters special is that they integrate current in either direction (charging vs discharging) over time, and as such can measure amp-hours.
Starting with a charged battery, of known amp-hour capacity, they know how much, in amp-hours, is taken out of it, and how much is put back in it, to determine a current state of charge. This is much more convenient and generally more accurate than trying to determine charge from battery voltage or specific gravity.
They account for charging efficiency, the fact that you have to put more back in than you took out to break even.
The Links account for the Peukert Effect, the higher use of capacity at higher discharge rates (for example from an inverter). While a 100 amp-hour battery may give 20 hours at a 5 amp discharge, it may only give 4 hours at a 20 amp discharge, not 100/20=5 hours. Amp-hour meters that don't account for this aren't as accurate with high discharge applications.
Good investment.
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Moe
These meters put a low-resistance, high-wattage shunt (resistor) of known value in the battery ground line. They measure the tiny voltage drop across it and convert that into the amount of current (amps) going through the shunt.
What makes these meters special is that they integrate current in either direction (charging vs discharging) over time, and as such can measure amp-hours.
Starting with a charged battery, of known amp-hour capacity, they know how much, in amp-hours, is taken out of it, and how much is put back in it, to determine a current state of charge. This is much more convenient and generally more accurate than trying to determine charge from battery voltage or specific gravity.
They account for charging efficiency, the fact that you have to put more back in than you took out to break even.
The Links account for the Peukert Effect, the higher use of capacity at higher discharge rates (for example from an inverter). While a 100 amp-hour battery may give 20 hours at a 5 amp discharge, it may only give 4 hours at a 20 amp discharge, not 100/20=5 hours. Amp-hour meters that don't account for this aren't as accurate with high discharge applications.
Good investment.
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Moe
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dclark
- First Officer
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- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:35 am
- Location: Dave Clark - Orange County, CA - 2000 26X Day Tripper
I think that is only kinda-sorta true. It looks like two different items...The one you see on Ebay is a newer model that includes the "RS232 Output" and a low battery alarm that they are calling "LLO"
I usually buy my electronics from this guy: www.dbmarine.com
If you go to the site and type "link 10" in the search box, both will come up. One lists at $182.85 and the other at $255.99. The cheaper is what you see at WM the other is what is listed currently on Ebay.
I've learned to find the manufactures model number and use that for comparison.
I usually buy my electronics from this guy: www.dbmarine.com
If you go to the site and type "link 10" in the search box, both will come up. One lists at $182.85 and the other at $255.99. The cheaper is what you see at WM the other is what is listed currently on Ebay.
I've learned to find the manufactures model number and use that for comparison.
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Jeff Ritsema
- First Officer
- Posts: 204
- Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2004 10:09 am
- Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Rich,
In answer to the question on power consumption, I wish I could be more accurate, only to say that it has not been a problem. The wild card has been the use of the 75Etek, which charges the batteries quickly using a smart charger; we've doane a fair amount of motoring on the weekends I've used the refridge. We turn it off for the days we're not aboard.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
In answer to the question on power consumption, I wish I could be more accurate, only to say that it has not been a problem. The wild card has been the use of the 75Etek, which charges the batteries quickly using a smart charger; we've doane a fair amount of motoring on the weekends I've used the refridge. We turn it off for the days we're not aboard.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
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Jack O'Brien
- Captain
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- Location: West Palm Beach, Florida, 2000X, Gostosa III
Link 10 Question
I have three, identical, same age, Lifeline AGM 105 AH batteries. Two are in parallel serving both house and motor and are connected to position "1" on the master switch. The third (backup) is connected via a Combiner 50 and, at present, is never used and is connected to position "2" on the switch. As AGM batteries lose charge very slowly, the backup should take little of the recharging current whether supplied by the motor or the Minn-Kota 10 A charger. The Link 10 shunt is in series with the negative of the house/motor bank. I forget where, in relation to the shunt, the backup's negative cable connects and I forget, but presume, the combiner is in series on the positive side between the backup and house/motor bank.
Should I set the Link 10 capacity for 210 or 315 AH?
The unused backup battery is in the bow and someday will provide power for an anchor windlass.
With emphasis on the Link 10, how should I wire this boat and how to set-up the Link?
Should I set the Link 10 capacity for 210 or 315 AH?
The unused backup battery is in the bow and someday will provide power for an anchor windlass.
With emphasis on the Link 10, how should I wire this boat and how to set-up the Link?
Re: Link 10 Question
You should ensure the negative cable from the backup battery is on the opposite side of the shunt from the negative cables from the primary batteries, and set Link 10 capacity for 210 amps.Jack O'Brien wrote:I forget where, in relation to the shunt, the backup's negative cable connects...
Should I set the Link 10 capacity for 210 or 315 AH?
Given that the backup battery is unused, that it's AGM with a very low self-discharge rate, and that it gets topped off via the combiner every time the engine is run, I wouldn't worry about measuring amp-hours to determine its state of charge.
Given that it IS a backup, however, I would check its voltage several hours after charging, periodically, with a small voltmeter colocated with it, just to make sure it hasn't failed on you.
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Moe