Need to replace the centerboard line....

[verena]

We need to replace the centerboard line on our 1999 26X but have never raised the boat off the trailer. Any tips and tricks you guys have on how to raise the boat, or alternative ways of changing out the line? Maybe someone can direct me towards some old threads on this topic?

Thanks!

[opie]

Hi,
You are right, the subject has been discussed several times over the years here. So why not give you my second way of doing it? Last summer, my CB rope was getting stiff and even sticking a bit when released. I chose a nice sized line at West Marine, with very low stretch. I got out on the water, visibility was about 2 feet. I released the CB line and dove under the boat with snorkel and pulled out the old line. (If the line was swollen you may have a very hard time, mine was not. Maybe you may need a knife down there.) I went up top and shoved down the new line which happened to be high-tech and smaller. I dove back and pulled enough out to tie an overhand knot (also called 1/2 knot) after pulling it through the CB hole. I cut off the excess. Done. (Disclaimer: No responsibility to me if you drown or are eaten by a sea creature. There are easier ways to do this, but certainly not as "salty.")
(on edit - Snorkel and mask, of course. The snorkel was to get lungfuls of air each time I ran out and came back up, easier for me than raising my head above water on the side of the boat.) (Another caveat: A passing boat's wake could kill you, if the heaving boat bottom goes up and down and konks you out cold...... I did not think of that until now, so if you want to try this, have the admiral tie a rope around your foot and have her yank like crazy when a power boat is about to buzz you.) (Still want to try it..?) haha

[waternwaves]

I suspect..

If one really wanted to get out of the water quickly......then perhaps tying the rope 'elsewhere' would result in an extremely fast water exit.

but I like the idea of a carcass line for someone to drag me out..

[jcasale]

Verena

The centerboard line can be completely removed and replaced with the boat safely on the trailer. It just takes a little bit of strength and balance, or two people which ever is more readily available. For me it was the second of the two.

John

[blueskiesup]

I was able to drop mine while on the trailer. As I remeber things the hardest part was getting the bracket to come free from the boat since it was so covered in white 5200 sealant.

Ater dropping the bracket it was easy to pull the centerboard. I taped a new line on to the end of the old one and pulled it through...

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

here's a good set of instructions that i've acquired and revised over the years. take a look at your manual for illustrations as well:

26X Centerboard Removal While on the Trailer:

1) There’s one nut & washer holding the bracket which supports it in place (and the rope/cable, of course). It’s located in the center of the boat and is accessed via the front dinette seat – starboard side. It’s actually above the waterline so not subject to leaks. See page 18 of your X manual for an illustration.
1a) You will be removing it while on the trailer…so before you do anything, make sure that you have a raised, padded (very soft) platform that the CB will be able to fall on. A couple tires with padding on top, a sheet of plywood raised 6-8” with several soft blankets, etc.
2) The easy part is removing the nut and washer inside the cabin. That’s all that holds the bracket in place. The difficult part is getting the bracket to drop. That’s because Roger MacGregor used 5200 adhesive and it serves as extra strong glue.
3) Therefore, you will need to “pound” it from the inside down with a hammer to break the seal.
4) To do that, put the nut back on so that it covers the top of the bolt. Also, make sure that the CB rope is fastened, but slack by about 2” or so.
5) Then, get a small block of wood (i.e. 2 x 4) that you can use to place on top of the bolt and protect it from getting damaged when you pound with a hammer.
6) Now, you need a small sledge or maul (that works best). You need something that has some weight and mass to it. You will pound, pound, pound until the adhesive seal breaks. This is a very small space to work in so that’s what makes this part so difficult. However, eventually, after a few very hard blasts, it will release.
7) Once it releases, it will not fall to the ground because the nut is still on the bolt and the rope is still tight enough to hold it in place
8.) Now, when I do this myself, I take off the nut and slowly let out the CB rope until it softly falls on the padding underneath it. However, if doing it singlehanded, you might need to let a little line out, then go check to see out how far it has fallen, and then let a little more line out until it drops all the way. Go slowly and make sure that there is plenty of padded support to cushion the fall.
9) For reference, notice the side that the rope is tied and how it enters and exits the location. Also, inspect to see that the bracket is in good shape.

To replace…
1) Make sure that the adhesive on the underside and bracket is removed and surface is clean. This may take a while with scraping.
2) Tie the rope to the CB, put 5200 adhesive on the bracket, and try to wedge the centerboard up and in place while you go topside to fasten the washer and bolt.
3) Put some additional 5200 on the inside, however as I previously mentioned, this is actually above the waterline so it serves only as a “splash” guard. I actually used a grade less than the 5200 so future removal would be easier. I’ve checked my job since and no water enters the boat.
4) Before you tighten the nut completely, make sure that the rope is properly in place (and not wedged incorrectly).
5) Finally, tighten the nut, clean the 5200 up inside the cabin, and you’re done.


Bob T.
"DāBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki

[Jackb]

My centerboard line failed yesterday. What size and what type of line did you use? What knot was used to secure the line to the centerboard?

[40Toes]

3) Therefore, you will need to “pound” it from the inside down with a hammer to break the seal.
4) To do that, put the nut back on so that it covers the top of the bolt. Also, make sure that the CB rope is fastened, but slack by about 2” or so.
5) Then, get a small block of wood (i.e. 2 x 4) that you can use to place on top of the bolt and protect it from getting damaged when you pound with a hammer.
6) Now, you need a small sledge or maul (that works best). You need something that has some weight and mass to it. You will pound, pound, pound until the adhesive seal breaks. This is a very small space to work in so that’s what makes this part so difficult. However, eventually, after a few very hard blasts, it will release.

I tried this last year and gave up on it for fear of doing damage. Another board member (Jose) used a lever method from under the boat. Basically there is a spot on the centreboard in the retracted position where you can put it a piece of lumber to apply pressure and break the 5200. I haven't tried it yet but it looks to be a better option or at least another option to get the bracket to release.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

3) Therefore, you will need to “pound” it from the inside down with a hammer to break the seal.
4) To do that, put the nut back on so that it covers the top of the bolt. Also, make sure that the CB rope is fastened, but slack by about 2” or so.
5) Then, get a small block of wood (i.e. 2 x 4) that you can use to place on top of the bolt and protect it from getting damaged when you pound with a hammer.
6) Now, you need a small sledge or maul (that works best). You need something that has some weight and mass to it. You will pound, pound, pound until the adhesive seal breaks. This is a very small space to work in so that’s what makes this part so difficult. However, eventually, after a few very hard blasts, it will release.

I tried this last year and gave up on it for fear of doing damage. Another board member (Jose) used a lever method from under the boat. Basically there is a spot on the centreboard in the retracted position where you can put it a piece of lumber to apply pressure and break the 5200. I haven't tried it yet but it looks to be a better option or at least another option to get the bracket to release.

this is the method that Bill@MacGregor Corp. instructed me to use.
worked perfectly for me. i used a small sledge hammer as described above.
after a couple of sharp blasts, it popped/unattached w/out harm to hull.

my question for you regarding your proposed method is..."how are you going to completely retract the centerboard while on the trailer so that you can pry it loose?"
that is, there's no room to work under the boat while on the trailer.
all of the work must be done on the inside to break/release the 5200 from the hull.

Bob T.
"DāBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki

[40Toes]

my question for you regarding your proposed method is..."how are you going to completely retract the centerboard while on the trailer so that you can pry it loose?"
that is, there's no room to work under the boat while on the trailer.

Everything is the same, ie the boat is on the trailer and the CB is retracted. I am pretty sure there is enough room under the boat to lever it while on the trailer, however, I haven't actually tried it. Jose Teixeira is the one who removed his CB using this method.

[jcasale]

The "prying method" worked like a champ. It also has the benefit of being able to control the board when it does break free. Just be sure to place a piece of wood between the prybar and the hull to avoid marring the gelcoat.

John
Atlantic Beach, Fl
2000 , Honda 30hp

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

i'm still at a loss on how you plan to EXTEND the CB while on the trailer.
that is, my CB is stopped from EXTENDing due to the cross-member/support of the trailer. the trailer cross-member/support keeps the CB from falling on my '02-X.
the CB cannot be EXTENDED unless i raise the boat off the trailer.
what am i missing here??? (or...what are you guys smokin'???)



you see where the words "A-CENTERBOARD (PARTIALLY DOWN)" are on the illustration?
the location of my trailer cross support is where that arrow is. and that cross support keeps my CB from EXTENDing while on the trailer.
the trailer was purposely designed that way so that the CB will not drop while being trailered, thus completely eliminating the chance that the CB will be damaged.

Bob T.
"DāBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki

on edit: replaced the word retract with EXTEND

[opie]

If you release the support nut and drop the bracket down, won't you have room to slide out the centerboard? As long as it is connected at the swivel rod, it can not come out due to your cross piece,I agree. (Some of us have other mfg trailers without such a crosspiece.)

[Hamin' X]

Perhaps I am missing something here, but how do you get your boat on the trailer without retracting the board first?

~Rich

[40Toes]

i'm still at a loss on how you plan to retract the CB while on the trailer.

I think something is being lost in translation and this is starting to feel like a Abbott and Costello skit.... My definition of retract is to draw back or to bring it home or in other words the CB is "up inside the boat". The CB is "up inside the boat" when it goes on the trailer. Removal of the CB is as you describe and the only difference is the bolt wacking thing.