"M" Sliding Companionway Hatch

[Hardcrab]

I am fed up with the grinding everytime I slide the hatch.
I'm going to remove the port side of the long keeper piece and do something, not sure what until I get it apart

Has anyone removed this piece?
Was it a hard job to overcome the 5200 from each of the bolt holes?
Thanks for the input.

[NiceAft]

What kind of grinding are you referring to? I have an 05 M, and I don't recall anything as bad as you infer. Have you tried cleaning out the area's that the noise is coming from before attempting radical measures.

Ray

[bscott]

I had a screeching noise on my hatch. It was due to the forward lip contacting the cabin top. I grinded away a small portion of the lip and it went away. The screetching happened after I cleaned the junk out of the tracks which in turn lowered the hatch to the point where the lip hit the cabin top.

bscott

[dennisneal]

Hardcrab,

Is there a way to lube the sliding hatch cover so that it does not make a "grinding" noise?

[Hamin' X]

The cure that I have seen is to wrap the edges of the hatch with the fuzzy side of velcro.

~Rich

[pokerrick1]

What bscott said - - - mine was screeching to the point where it was taking off a layer of gelcoat which appeared over the black windows as gelcoat dust and I (we) did not realize what that white streak over the windows was until it happened to a Mac in a neighborhood slip - - - then we finally figured out it was dust coming from the sliding hatch, and everytime I washed down the boat the white window streaks appeared

Rick

[Hardcrab]

It's the thought and "feel" of the grinding more than anything.
I do keep it hosed out, but just one little grain of sand blown into there and SKREECH!
I've even got black showing in some spots where the gel coat has ground down.

I thought about some type of lube but worry it might attract and hold the grit.

My plan is to 5200 or epoxy a 1/8" thick nylon strip about an inch wide to the rub areas of the deck and the hatch.

It should glide much better "nylon to nylon", even with some grains of sand. At least I'm thinking so.

The ten screws are easy enough to get at on the port rail piece, it's the factory 5200 that will be the biggest problem.
That stuff is tough. How tough is what I don't know.
I'd hate to break that piece trying to remove it.
Again, any experience?
Thanks.

[Paul S]

not sure if they used 5200 or not. I have removed some pieces, and they came right off with some prying. I would suspect it is more like boatlife (or 4200, 4000), which would probably be more appropriate, than 5200. I use boatlife for attaching hardware.

also, be careful not to make the hatch track too smooth/slipperly, or if you walk on it, it may move and you could lose your balance. There needs to be some friction in the channel. I once sprayed some sailkote in the track! Bad move, Sure it slid VERY easily, but also walking on it, it would move as well. Not good thing to lose your footing on a boat.

[Hamin' X]

By applying the fuzzy velcro strips, it should raise the hatch enough to prevent the forward part scraping the cabin top.

~Rich

[Hardcrab]

Hamin' X, the Velcro pile idea might be the best ticket. Cheap and easy to install with the sticky backs. A long wearing life is the only question. I don't want to make this a yearly project. Have you done this? Any info on the life span?
I think those nylon glide "feet" designed for chair leg bottoms might be another answer at least worth looking at, if they're thin enough.
Five or six of those spread out on each of the hatch edges might work.

The "to slippery" is a great thing to keep in mind. I see your point. Thanks Paul S. Your removal experience has made up my mind.

I'm gonna press on with removing the hatch and figure out what to do when I get there.

Thanks to all (and still open for ideas to throw against the wall to see what sticks).

[Hamin' X]

Hamin' X, the Velcro pile idea might be the best ticket. Cheap and easy to install with the sticky backs. A long wearing life is the only question. I don't want to make this a yearly project. Have you done this? Any info on the life span?

No, I have not tried this myself, only read about other's experience here. Although it is primarily about Xs, you can check this topic for more info: Cabin sliding hatch--horrible screetching noise--found prob.

More here: "Non-skid" Treatment?

~Rich

[pokerrick1]

I've even got black showing in some spots where the gel coat has ground down.

So do I

Rick

[Hardcrab]

Okay, it's done!

Very, Very, simple to do.
I should have done this 2 1/2 years ago.

I used the sticky Velcro idea and will see how long it lasts.
Pulling the port guide rail piece is a total hunk of cake.
The factory caulking is almost putty-like and not adhesive enough to give a headache at all. And it's only at the screw holes.
I only needed to remove 6 of the 10 rail fasteners. The rail is flexable enough to easliy bend out of the way so the hatch can come right off. This is a very good thing.

The aft most screw is under the elect panel. Then pull down the next five liner trim plugs to get to the 3/8" nuts.
Use a deep socket. Lots of the goop around the nuts, but it gives way to the socket.

The Velcro "Industrial Strenght" 2"x5' is $7.65 at WalMart.
Cut the pile side in half lenghtwise. Then cut again to get two pieces 1/2" x 5'.
(A spare is ready to go when/if needed for the next time).
Clean the hatch lip with solvent.
8" goes on the top of the hatch lip, then bend around the lip underneath to the other end, then bend back to the top for 8".
1/2" is the perfect width to use. 5' worked out perfectly.

Reinstall the hatch. It fits sweet. There is plenty of vertical room for the added thickness of the hatch lip.
Plumbers type putty back in the screw holes to be easy-off again next time.

The nasty skreech and grind is gone. The tactile feel is so sweet.
It dosen't feel slippery so as to be dangerous, as pointed out above.
The white powder draining down on the blacks should be gone.

I hope it lasts. Time will tell.
Grin. Grin. Grin.


Did I mention it was dead simple?

[NiceAft]

8" goes on the top of the hatch lip, then bend around the lip underneath to the other end, then bend back to the top for 8".

Huh I understood, or thought I did, about bending "around the lip underneath", when you then said "then bend back to the top for 8"", you lost me That's like trying to explain how to tie shoelaces

Ray

[Hardcrab]

Yeah, kinda poorly explained. Sorry.

Let me try again.

The hatch is about 44" long.
The Velcro is 60" long.
Matching the Velcro's centerline (30" mark) to the lip's centerline (22" mark) leaves 8" of Velcro overhanging at each end.
Rather than cut it flush with the lip, I simply rolled the extra 8" over on to the top of the lip.
That makes just the first 8" at each corner a "sandwich" of Velcro - Hatch Lip - Velcro.
The Velcro goes full lenght on the bottom of the lip, and rolls over 8" on to the top of the lip at each corner.

This gives a nice smooth, rounded leading edge to the velcro so as not to get hung up during use and start pulling the Velcro away from the lip, at least to my way of thinking.
Perhaps not needed, so only 44" of Velcro cut flush at the lip ends would be the answer.

Is this is a better description?

(The measurements are only approx., but the theory is correct)

One more thing.
The velcro sticky back is very sticky. ( a good thing)
However, you don't get much of a "do-over" if you go off the line.
Go slow and easy.
Pull of only a little of the backing off the sticky at a time.

Something like this should be done at the factory, IHMO.