Issues with disconnecting engine from steering arm

[c130king]

Another issue that came up during my sailing vacation.

I always raise my engine when sailing and if the winds are light enough I normally disconnect my steering. It worked in 2007 when I did this...at least I don't remember any issues. But now, after I disconnect and secure the engine I get interference between the steering arm coming out of the starboard transom and the "swivel" arm/hardware that is used to connect the engine to the steering arm (but is secured to the bolt in transom in this case).

And this interference only happens when the engine is down in the water. If I disconnect and raise the engine I have no problems and nice light steering. But I don't have the option of lowering the engine...leaving it disconnected but centered...and steering with the rudders only. I can turn one direction but when the steering arm comes out I get interference with the motor linkages.

Wish I took pictures.

Hope my description of the issue made sense. Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions.

Thanks to all for any inputs,

Jim

[Richard O'Brien]

Gee! since no one else has responded, I guess that I will. I had lots of problems with cable and outboard interference, and there is no one answer as each motor has a different mount. Overall the best results i've had were from 1. getting a quick disconnect linkage kit from Cabela's, and 2. getting Teleflex TF Xtreme cables. The latter can be bent down to a 4' radius. Additionaly I fabricated a different higher place to lock the motor arm while it's disconnected
Hope this helps?

Richard

[TAW02]

My 50hp Evinrude will do the same thing Jim. The linkage bar consists of 2 "L" shaped stainless flat-bar stock bolted together at the short tanged-ends in the middle. Problem becomes apparent when the motor is lowered and the swivel-angle of the two bar pieces change. This lays out a 'snare' for the rudder link to catch on. Usually when steering hard to port and the link is fully extended. Gives the impression that the helm is 'locked-up'.

I haven't studied the problem long enough to derive a possible solution or fix yet. But it is something well worth fixing.

Big T

[delevi]

Had the same problem years ago. The best solution is the engine linkage from Blue Water Yachts. Takes 5 seconds to disconnect and connect to the holding stud without any tools. Engine can be tilted up and stay centered without flopping. Can also be tilted down in the locked centered position and used with rudder steering with no interference. The linkage is actually better than stock.. solid arm instead of two pieces. It can be ordered from BWY. I am very happy with it. I always disconnect the engine before hoisting sails, then tilt it up. The helm is just so much better.

[c130king]

Big T,

What you describe is exactly the issue I have. Sounds like we have the same issue. No issues with cables, just interference between those L shaped arms and the actual steering arm that comes out of the side of the transom...in the down position only.

I will check out Leon's pics when I get home today...the work computer won't open the pics.

Jim

[c130king]

Leon,

Thanks for the pics. Your set-up is different than mine. I have the same "steering arm" (not sure of the correct term) coming out of the starboard side of the transom like yours. But the connection to my engine is different. It is two pieces of flat metal, probably 8" long/1" wide with a 90 degree bend on one end with 1" of additional metal after the bend. I call these the motor linkages. The two 90 degree 1" parts are bolted togther but they are loose and can swivel.

Mine is easy to connect and disconnect. But I don't think it is the BWY kit...it is different than yours.

This is the best pic I got, you will have to zoom in to see much. You can see the steering arm, the outer-most motor linkage (connected to the steering arm), and the threaded post where I secure the motor linkage to when disconnected from the steering arm.



I have a threaded post, about where yours is located, but it is a single threaded bolt coming out of the bottom of the transom with a nut . The motor linkage is disconnected from the steering arm and attached to the post and then the nut is tightened down to hold the engine in place, centered.

When the engine is raised it all works fine. Steering works very easily and smoothly and there is no interference. When the engine is lowered the steering arm...or more specifically the bolt/pin that goes through it (which is used to connect to the motor linkage) hits the motor linkage arms. And of course everything works fine when the motor linkage is connected to the steering arm.

Today I was at the London Boat Show and they had a 2008 on display. The motor linkages looked similar to mine (same 90 degree bends) except that the 8" piece that actually gets pinned to the steering arm had a 90 degree twist in it. It connected on top of the steering arm versus on the side as mine does. Both of my motor linkages are flat.

Was not able to ask about it nor was I able to disconnect and turn the engine.

Does anyone else have this 90 degree twist on their steering linkages? If so, could you post some good pics???? Please. I am hoping to figure this out so next time I get back to my boat I can try and fix this small annoyance.

Cheers,
Jim

[delevi]

Jim,

Your setup is stock, just like mine was. The steering arm you see in my pix is part of the BWY kit. You replace the existing arm with theirs which has a little hitch ball on the end. The fixing stud with the hitch ball is also part of the kit, replacing the stock fixing stud, as well as the connecting rod (single piece vs. two swiveling pieces) and another hitch ball which mounts to the center of the engine. There are threads near the hitch-ball attachments, allowing the rod to swivel as a single piece. I don't think there is a way to fix the problem you describe with the stock setup. I had the exact same problem before buying the BWY kit. Perhaps some engines will allow clearance when motor is tiled up/down and disconnected from the sterring arm, connected to the fixing stud. Mine did not. You might try twisting the two pieces around to see if the steering arm clears.. can't think of much else other than altering the whole setup as I did, as well as several others on this board. Blue Water Yachts doesn't sell boats with the stock Mac engine linkage setup. They use their own, per my pix. They feel strongly about disconnecting the engine for sailing and the stock setup just isn't designed to do this easily and efficiently. Can't remember the cost.. but I think around $75. Worth every penny in my opinion.

Good luck,
Leon

[School House Steve]

Jim,
I had the same problems, and found a simple solution that costs absolutly nothing! Just remove the bolt from the steering arm, turn it 180 degrees and re-install so the longer part is facing forward. A better solution would be if the bolt could be fixed in a vertical position which would also make the linkage to the motor easier to connect. Why the factory hasn't done this is just poor design. One of my next projects is to crawl back under the rear berth to see if the linkage at this point could be rotated 90 degrees so the bolt would then be in a vertical position.

Steve

[c130king]

Leon, Steve,

Thanks. Didn't realize my set-up was stock. I think my bolt may already been turned 180 degrees (by the PO)...the longer part (with the hole and pin) is facing forward. I will definitely give that BWY kit a look.

I wonder if the 2008 or 2009 's have this issue somewhat fixed with this new 90 degree twist that I saw.

Just one more thing to add to my project list for the future (hopefully this Summer).

1. Get the steering wheel off so that I can install my Helm Lock...buy 3-arm wheel puller.
2. Install new battery switch, battery combiner, and two new Group-24 batteries (already have the switch and combiner).
3. Fix a few small dings with gel-coat repair goop I bought but haven't used yet.
4. New topping lift.
5. Cover the ends of the bolt going through the mast to hold the hound up...halyard has a tendancy to catch on that bolt end.
6. Tweak my LJ design.
7. Tweak my single-line reefing layout.
8. Install VHF radio and antenna.
9. Install marine stereo I bought at WM for $99 but haven't installed yet.
10. Install the new table w/ lift top (and plexiglass for now) and new 3-piece wood hatch boards that my Dad is making.
11. AND fix this steering linkage issue.

Love this website...got most of these ideas from this board...and the list continues to grow. And of course with no boat to play on or with over here I have nothing better to do but surf the website and make lists of things I want to do to and with my boat.

Cheers,
Jim

[atzserv]

Jim,

I have almost the same list. The one project you mention that I have alot of interest in is what your thinking is on Number 5.

5. Cover the ends of the bolt going through the mast to hold the hound up...halyard has a tendancy to catch on that bolt end.

Thanks,

Gary

[c130king]

Gary,

I probably got my halyard caught one third of the time over my Christmas Sailing vacation. Had to get out of the cockpit to fix that problem when it happened.

Not sure what I will use, duct tape will work for a temp fix, but I will see about cutting it shorter and covering with something plastic or metal. Unless somebody reading this has a great idea.

Jim

[parrothead]

I had thought they were standard, but they must have been installed by my dealer as part of my original main-halyard-led-aft setup.... a couple of eye straps http://tinyurl.com/eye-straps through which the main halyard passes on its way down the starboard side of the mast. They keep it in position so that there's no fouling. I added one on the port side of the mast to guide the spinnaker halyard down to its new pivot cleat at the mast base, but even if you're still using the original horn cleats on the mast, they would be helpful in keeping the halyards straight and tight against the mast.