Trailer bunk board failure - damage :(

[Paul S]

Last time we recovered our M, one of the bow bunk boards failed (not the v rubber bump)...the wood broke at the bolt and rotated...then the bow of the boat hit the trailer frame and put a decent size gouge (3" long) in the bow of the boat.

I called the dealer and he mentioned that he has heard this complaint before.

Not sure if this affects X owners, but our M trailer is going to go though a bit of an upgrade on that block

I know what caused it, but it should not have failed. I know it is wood, but it should have been able to take that kind of load. This was the first launch/recovery with out new (to us 2000 Land Rover). The hitch is the same level as our old truck, but our Land Rover has Auto-load leveling. and once the trailer was put on the hitch, the truck did not sag under the tounge weight. It adjusted to the weight instantly. So it was 2-3" higher than our old truck which sagged a bit in the rear once the trailer was lowered. Apparently that additional distance cause the bunk to be a bit higher than it was before. I since bought a drawbar 3" lower than the original one. BTW the LR Discovery is unreal towing. Best I have ever used.

Here is the boat/trailer. The block is on the frame near the bow level with the ground(not the V where the winch is on the bow) (click to enlarge)


Paul

[Mark Prouty]

Last time we recovered our M, one of the bow bunk boards failed (not the v rubber bump)...the wood broke at the bolt and rotated...then the bow of the boat hit the trailer frame and put a decent size gouge (3" long) in the bow of the boat.

Sorry to hear about your bunk failure. With all the problems you've had, this has got to be very frustrating. I hope you can get your gouge fixed easily.

[Paul S]

Last time we recovered our M, one of the bow bunk boards failed (not the v rubber bump)...the wood broke at the bolt and rotated...then the bow of the boat hit the trailer frame and put a decent size gouge (3" long) in the bow of the boat.

Sorry to hear about your bunk failure. With all the problems you've had, this has got to be very frustrating. I hope you can get your gouge fixed easily.

It is frustrating..not going to attempt to place blame.. I just wish the bunks were beefed up. They will be when i am done. I may try and put some kind of roller or something there if possible.

But the cause was the higher tounge distance so the boat hit the bunk at a more agressive angle. Just the same...I think the block should not have failed in the first place.

I have some decent body work skills and will attempt to fill in the scratched gel coat myself. It is on white gel coat. Should be a bit easier than the blue.

Paul

[Casey]

I had a bunk board failure related to old wood and the trailer not being level. I replaced with new wood. I notice that my boat has bottom coat and does not slide well on the carpetted bunk boards.

Good luck.

Casey

Good Winds Karma

[Richard Lisch]

Paul,

same thing happend to me the third time I retrieved my boat. I was lucky I installed a Keel Guard when I received the new boat so nothing happende to the gelcoat just had a 2" cut in the rubber. Immediately after this happened a roller was installed solving the problem and adding some additional advantage retrieving the boat.

[Paul S]

Paul,

same thing happend to me the third time I retrieved my boat. I was lucky I installed a Keel Guard when I received the new boat so nothing happende to the gelcoat just had a 2" cut in the rubber. Immediately after this happened a roller was installed solving the problem and adding some additional advantage retrieving the boat.

How did you do it? what parts did you use? Any pics of it? I would rather not re-invent the wheel if possible.

BTW. I checked out my gelcoat work. Looks pretty good. Needs another layer of gelcoat to make it perfect. Now has anyone had any luck getting factory blue gelcoat for repairs? That would be great.

Paul

[Frank C]

Paul,
Someday I'll probably add a wide v-roller just behind the v-bunk. So far I've never needed to drive the boat onto the trailer, so it's still optional. I imagine that I'd set a roller just aft of the v-bunk, and barely touching the hull. Due to the geometry of boat floating above trailer, such a roller should lift the bow when afloat, yet still allow the hull to fully rest on the v-bunk as the trailer pulls up the ramp.

I recall that Duane shows a one on his website, configured a little differently though.

[Jeff S]

I had a bunk failure wherin the bunk came off (mid bunk port side) due to the bolts failing. I am in the process of finishing up my trailer reclamation project. I replaced all the old bunks- most of the wood was in decent condition (it is a 2000 X) except one of the V bunks split when I took it off so it was ready to go. The bolts were atrocious- I think they were steel- they were unrecognizable as bolts- the threads were even gone. I had to get info on them from Bill at Boats 4 Sail since I couldn't exactly match them due to their state. (BTW- I am in salt water, and the PO's launched in salt water as well.)

I used 1/4-20 2 1/2" SS bolts with SS nylock nuts. I also replaced all the wood and carpet on the bunks. I thought seriously about installing longitudinal bunks, but decided against it as I bottom paint on the trailer and that would make it more difficult, plus the transverse bunks keep the CB up in case the line fails.

I also stripped the trailer metal, knocked off some of the surface rust and coated it with POR-15. That stuff is heavy duty! It isn't the smoothest finish (I did coat it with Chassis Coat Black also); I wouldn't paint the exterior of my car with it, but it is excellent for the trailer.

Having said that, for those wanting to redo your trailers. I would seriously think about just buying a new galvanized trailer when yours starts to show signs of failure rather than rehab the whole trailer. I recommend keeping your trailer alive with good PM as long as you can safely do so- then replacing. The work required to strip, sand, brush, and repaint the whole trailer is very significant. I have POR-15 on my skin that won't come off after 1 week, a spot got through my painting jeans onto my knee. I have scrubbed it, used acetone- it is on me until all affected layers of skin have left me. It is nasty stuff- good for the trailer though.

I also rewired the trailer as the old wiring was wearing out. Replaced the trailer lights as well. I hesitate to mention any of this as I don't think I'd do it again- but I know this place is full of DIY'ers. I thnk that my trailer will be good for a LONG time now. POR-15 won't even sand very well- it is pretty tough.

Here are some test results on the stuff:

ASTM B-117 Salt Spray - The oldest and most wildly used weather cabinet test. It introduces a spray in a closed chamber where specimens are exposed at specific locations and angles. It creates a 100% relative humidity condition in the exposure zone.
Two separate B-117 tests. One with new steel and the other with rusted steel.

No change in 3 panels of new steel exposed for 250 hours at 98 degrees. Thickness = 2 mils
No change in 3 panels of rusted steel exposed for 1000 hours at 98 degrees. Thickness = 2 mils

Here is the site:
http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=6

Jeff S

[Andy26M]

I had the exact same thing happen the first time I recovered my 26M. The left front bunk "rolled" off the support, bending the screws right over. I had a minor gouge in the gel coat on the nose where the boat hit the metal, but it was easily patched.

What I found when I took the bunks apart, was a simple piece of 2x4 with a flat-head screw and no washer. I strongly suspect that the screws were overtightened at the factory, hence they had already started pulling down through the holes drilled in the wood.

To repair it, I went and got a good piece of pressure-treated 2x4 and cut and drilled it to match the originals (I did both side in front assuming they might both be defective). BUT, I then got some heftier stainless steel bolts and 1" carriage washers. I used a 1" hole cutter bit to recess the carriage washers into the top surface of the wood, deep enough that the head of the bolt is also below the surface level of the wood. Once re-covered with the carpet, there is no lump there to potentially gouge the hull.

Now, the only way that bunk is coming off of there is if the metal support bar comes with it.

- AndyS

[richandlori]

Don't say that Andy....the whole trailer just may collapse... ..from all the issue I see here with the relatively "new" trailer serves as a warning...Check...Check...and double check the trailer to keep this weak link from causing trouble.

Rich

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

Our 1996 vintage trailer is in surprisingly good shape. Very little rust even though it gets dipped in salt water. I do make sure it gets rinsed everytime we get home. We've had no problems with bent or broken parts but we do always hand pull the boat onto the trailer, we never drive the boat on.

[Don T]

Hello:
My 1995 trailer is doing well too. However, my forward port bunk board broke the first year. I made a new set out of pressure treated 2X6 which over lap in a tapered V so there is a "ramp" so to speak. Impossible for the boat to smack the cross member unless you miss the V completely. There are backing blocks behind the overlaped portion that are through bolted to the cross member horizontally. IE: the ramp portion goes as low as the lower edge of the cross member.

[Harry van der Meer]

I also repainted my trailer with PUR-15. Indeed tuff stuff. However, it is holding up very well. No rust at all after one year.

I also replaced the bunks with pressure treated lumber, new carpets and 1/4 inch SS carriage bolts, counter sunk about 1/4 inch below the wood surface and lock nuts.

I also installed 1/4 inch bolts for grounding the lights. I tapped the holes, so the bolts can be screwed in the frame for good electrical contact. I used dielectric silicone to make sure the contacts would remain corrosion free.

One of the big benefits of the mac trailer is the ladder.

[kmclemore]

I also repainted my trailer with PUR-15. Indeed tuff stuff. However, it is holding up very well. No rust at all after one year.

Yeah, that's fantastic stuff... it's a tried and true product for chassis coating in the automotive restoration trade. I plan to do mine with it too.

I also replaced the bunks with pressure treated lumber, new carpets and 1/4 inch SS carriage bolts, counter sunk about 1/4 inch below the wood surface and lock nuts.... I also installed 1/4 inch bolts for grounding the lights. I tapped the holes, so the bolts can be screwed in the frame for good electrical contact. I used dielectric silicone to make sure the contacts would remain corrosion free.

Wow. Don't suppose I can bribe you to do mine as well, Harry? I have some nice beer from a rather good brewery here and I'll even promise not to hang about and watch you work.....

[Andy26M]

Trying to post a few pix here, let's see if it works:


Here is the old bunk board showing the bent over bolt and how easily it pulled through:



And the new one with recessed washer to avoid pull-through:



- AndyS