26X Cabin Leaks from Rain

[spudz72]

I just picked up a 1996 26X and there it really needed a good cleaning as there was mildew inside from moisture. Found out that's because it has been leaking when it rains. The rain seems to be coming in where the 4 bolts hold the main rails on at the front and back.

My question is what is the most popular method of sealing these leaks? I picked up some 3M 5200 and was thinking I could remove the 4 bolts and put them back on with the 3M 5200 in between, and that should fix the problem? Or I wonder if I could just use some silicon sealant caulking around the outside of the plate where the bolts go through without removing the bolts and the rail.

Any comments would be appreciated as I'd like to get this fixed asap so I can put my cushions back in and not have any mildew problems. Water in the cabin is not too much fun.

[c130king]

Spudz,

I noticed that you had a lot of "views" of your post but no "reply's" as of yet. So here is my $.02 worth.

First, do an "advanced search" (link in upper right corner of window) on "cabin leak". This will give you 83 posts with those two words. In the right side column of the results you can see what the topic was. Click on a topic that looks good...like "Cabin Leak" and you can see what others have said about this in the past. Some topics don't look too useful...they just happened to have the words cabin and leak in them.

You will find lots of good stuff on this board using the search function.

But, more directly to your question. My leaked on the starboard chainplate and one of the starboard stanchions. I used clear silicon sealant. Worked just fine. Mainly because getting to the chainplate bolts on an seemed a little too daunting to me at the time.

Good luck,
Jim

[Retcoastie]

I had small leaks when we got "Last Flight". 5200 is a PITA. It hardens and should only be used where it is permenant. 4200 would be a better choice, although I used clear silicon.

[LOUIS B HOLUB]

I discovered my cabin leak from rain entering (blown in) through the "gap" above the cabin hatch doorway. You'll notice a sizable gap when the hatch is closed. We've installed a lexan tinted hatch as a Mod, and the gap mentioned still existed. So, our solution was a strip of window A/C sponge purchased at WalMart. It comes in a strip, approx 36" long. We split it, making two lengths (one becomes a spare). When leaving the boat, we simply stuff this A/C strip in, close lock rasp, lock the cabin up, and no problem since. This has kept our "X" cabin dry.

[spudz72]

Spudz,

I noticed that you had a lot of "views" of your post but no "reply's" as of yet. So here is my $.02 worth.

First, do an "advanced search" (link in upper right corner of window) on "cabin leak". This will give you 83 posts with those two words. In the right side column of the results you can see what the topic was. Click on a topic that looks good...like "Cabin Leak" and you can see what others have said about this in the past. Some topics don't look too useful...they just happened to have the words cabin and leak in them.

You will find lots of good stuff on this board using the search function.

But, more directly to your question. My leaked on the starboard chainplate and one of the starboard stanchions. I used clear silicon sealant. Worked just fine. Mainly because getting to the chainplate bolts on an seemed a little too daunting to me at the time.

Good luck,
Jim

Hi Jim. I'm new to this forum, but not to discussion forums. I should have noted that I did do a search before posting, and saw the thread you were referring to, as well as others, but no one really mentioned what they used, just that they sealed the leak. What kind of "stuff" people where using is what I was after. It appears to be clear silicon sealant is the product of choice.

I did pull of the caps inside the cabin and I see that they are using T-Nuts I think they are called rather then a large washer and nut. I guess that makes it easier for one person to do the tightening whereas with a bolt, washer, and nut you would likely need a helper. I'm wondering with I should stick with the T-Nuts that grab into the wood pieces, or replace them with a large washer, lock washer, and a nut.

[Don T]

Hello,
Silicone is not the product of choice in my opinion. The only place it should be used on a mac is at the chainplates. With proper application it will have enough flexibility to move under load and not break seal. It has to be reapplied every year / other year depending on exposure to the elements. Hardware such as winches, tracks, turning blocks etc are much better with at least 4200. I used 5200 on all of my leak repairs (tracks, centerboard turning block, hull deck joint and also my centerboard repair. It sticks like baby poop to a blanket but I have never had much trouble getting things back apart later (I've had my centerboard out 3 times, hatch tracks out twice).

[spudz72]

Just a followup post to let everyone know that I did get all the leaks in my cabin fixed. I took off all 4 rail posts and put a generous amount of 3M 4200 on and then screwed them back down nice and tight and the 4200 seeped out the sides and after it dried not more rain coming inside under the posts. So if anyone else has this problem 4200 definatly works great.

Next time I buy 4200 though I'll buy it in the caulking gun tubes rather then the smaller hand tubes since I did find I had a heck of a time trying to get the stuff out of the hand tubes most of the time.