Dagger board jamming

[bscott]

The first CB I weighted was a Hunter 22 with 50# and went to a 3:1, the second one, 30# on an and used a stand-up block at the deck and the winch. I used lead shot and epoxy rather than molten lead. The other advantage to the shot/epoxy route is that you can do it on the boat without removing the board.

I will be adding 30# to my current and plastic sheets in the trunk as soon as I finish up my rigging project.

Bob

[c130king]

Frank and Bob,

Thanks for the info. I do as you say and "luff" the sails (thus reducing side pressure) and pull it up. But I sometimes have to pull pretty hard. So I figured the 2:1 would ease that problem somewhat.

I don't think the 2:1 would allow me to overcome all the friction. Just allow me to pull it up a little easier. Probably still do the "luff" thing.

The weight in the DB is something I am mulling over. It sounds pretty easy. But will hold off until I get some more quality time with my boat.

Jim

[Jack Sparrow]

Over the past couple of days while carrying out repairs and mods to my dagger board my mind started to wander as it usually does what about winglets seems I have already open the board up for the access for the lead installation here is what I am thinking. A ¼ aluminium plate shaped to the contour of the bottom of the boat (this would allow me to still beach the boat without causing any damage) around about 10 inches wide, leading edge angled back at 45 degrees and chamfered. Attachment would be 3 or 4x5/16 countersunk screws from the plate side into potted inserts installed vertically from the inside of the dagger board that would be ganged together at the top to stop rotation when installing the attachment screws, this would allow the winglet to be removed to facilitate dagger board removal. Being detachable different shapes and sizes could be experimented with. After all I can't let Ben Lexen's wing keel be forgotten

Jack Sparrow

[delevi]

Lifting the board approx half way on a beam reach is actually recommended in the owner's manual for the You don't need as much lift on that point of sail, and can go down to about 1/4 length on a broad reach and all the way up on a run. I have 6:1 block & tackle for my weighted keel which weights a total of 180 lbs. I canl lift it under full sailing loads with the boat heeling, granted with some exertion of force. The issue with raising the stock board is the high tolarance (empty space) in the DB trunk. My boaard was made to have close to zero toelrence, so it doesn't angle inside the trunk, thus making it easier to raise, (weight aside.)

Jack, since you opened up the board already, you might consider mixing some leas shot with epoxy and adding about 150 lbs of weight. The extra ballast is a nice thing.

On a side note, in addition to reducing drag when sailing off the wind, lifting the board has other benefits. In rough, quartering seas, the boat has a tendency to broach. Part of the reason is the waves knock the stern to windward, then the boat trips over its keel. The bow can dig into a wave and round she goes. Raising the keel part way improves things significantly. Also, if it's blowing hard, I dorp the jib. I had this config last weekend, when Beene and I sailed on SF Bay. In 25-30 kts wind, broad reach to a dead run, sailing with a single reefed main and no headsail, surfing the waves. Consistent speeds in the 9 mph range, topping 10 on several occasions, and hit 12 mph for a second. That was fun!



Leon

[tangentair]

Over the past couple of days while carrying out repairs and mods to my dagger board my mind started to wander as it usually does what about winglets........... ............

Jack Sparrow

What I would like to see is a deployable keel, so that with the board down say 6 inches, an extension fore and aft would deploy increasing the the board's stablizing effect and improving steering.

[Boblee]

Jack your winglet idea sounds good and attaching it like you say leaves it open for plenty of experimentation.
Could be good in one lake I use which is now full of weed and this could mean being able to lift the board without losing control.

[NiceAft]

Back on May 13th I said

I understand why raising the board is effective while running, but on a beam reach? There are still lateral forces involved creating slippage.

On May 15th Leon responded with

Lifting the board approx half way on a beam reach is actually recommended in the owner's manual for the You don't need as much lift on that point of sail, and can go down to about 1/4 length on a broad reach and all the way up on a run

He is correct I went and looked it up, and there it was, in black and white on page 16 of the owners instructions book (July 14,2004).

Today I have learned something

Ray

[Jack Sparrow]

Today I was the first fit for the repaired and upgraded keel things went well. The flush fit to the contour of the bottom is better that expected with the board pulled up snug I feel there is little chance of water pressure (when motoring) getting between the hull and the wing. The dagger board lanyard will need to be replaced with a wire rope and the deck attach point beefed when pointing up I suspect the board will have a tendance to part with the boat


Jack Sparrow

[rockman]

Any chance you could repost the image Murray?

Rob deleted that section before i could move it.

THanks
Simon