Good idea to raise the boom 7 in.?

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TrueNorth
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Good idea to raise the boom 7 in.?

Post by TrueNorth »

On the advice of two dealers, I have raised the boom about 7 in, allowing just enough space to still insert my sail slugs into the mast track. Aim of raising to be be able to sail with a clear vinyl windscreen in place above the dodger (about 11 high) which improves visibility and reduces freezing to death here in AK. Also boom raised so I might be able to sail with bimini up - more protection.

Halyard goes directly through the headboard and is held with just a stopper knot. With boom raised this allows the sail to be fully hoisted without being recut -- does not hit backstay. All done in "yard-sail" mode-- I have not tested this.

Do think this is a bad idea? What will be the effect on heeling? What else have I missed? Many thanks!
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Beam's Reach
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Post by Beam's Reach »

I've always wondered the same thing. I have a lovely dodger that sheds the wind and water...but I have to take it down to sail as it sits about 5" higher than the boom.
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Bawgy
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Post by Bawgy »

There will be minimal effect on heeleing unless you extend the top of the mast as well. You will probably need to cut the foot of your sail to do this mod, Therefore reducing sail area and heel YHMV :)
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TrueNorth
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Post by TrueNorth »

Thanks for your comments. I have not received any contrary advice to date from other quarters. Will let you know how it goes when I test it out.
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tangentair
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Post by tangentair »

I would have to try this but by tieing at the reefing points with the cunningham and out haul, you might get by with angling up the boom and haveing the sail act as a loose footed sail. I haven't installed my bimini that I got cheap on e-bay so I may have the same problem. And that is what I will try as a solution first.
Wayneoh
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Have you thought about

Post by Wayneoh »

cutting down the poles on your bimini to be able to clear the boom? Shouldn't be but a few inches from what I've seen.

Not sure about the dodger though....
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Chip Hindes
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Post by Chip Hindes »

I would be careful not to underestimate the importance of how much additional heel you get from raising the boom 7”. It has nothing to do with whether or not you raise the top of the mast. Raise the boom 7”, the center of effort is raised 7”, period. A few degrees of heel is the difference between merely exciting and downright uncomfortable.

Obviously too late once you already have them and have discovered they’re too tall, but both my bimini and dodger purchased new with the boat from the original Havencraft, work fine with the boom in its stock location. The clearance is probably no more than 2”. I suppose it would be nice to have standing headroom, but that would require raising the boom about 2’ and that’s not happening.

These were designed specifically for the X and weren’t cheap. Sometimes you actually get what you pay for.

You might be able to cut down the main poles on the bimini a few inches on a top-only style (no side curtains) if that’s all you need. However you can’t move any of the pivot points without changing the basic geometry. You can’t do anything to lower a dodger unless you recut it.
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Bawgy
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Post by Bawgy »

If the sail is at the top of the mast already and you want to raise the boom 7 inches , You will have to cut off the sail in order to make it fit. If you cut off the foot of the sail and restitch the boltrope for the boom on You have not increased the amount you will heel.

If you take area off the top of the sail then you will be raising the center of effort and increasing heel by applying more leverage to the mast

So as I said cutting area off the bottom of the sail and raising the boom will probably reduce the heel due to less sail plan.

I also would cut the bimini poles to make it work with the boom where it is .
Kelly Hanson East
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Post by Kelly Hanson East »

I think I would add a reef point to the mainsail in the right place - measure twice, cut once, and then raise the boom 'reversibly' if you really want to sail with that dodger/bimini.

That way your sail works in all configs, with the only sacrifice being some mainsail power on that reef.

Its probably cheaper to have that reef point added than having the whole foot cut too!!

On edit: This will still raise the center of effort as Chip notes above - I failed to point that out in my post. I could dust out 20 year old mechanics skills and show this after about e^PI mistakes, or you could just listen to Chip P.E. who uses them everyday. Easy way, hard way.
Last edited by Kelly Hanson East on Tue May 13, 2008 12:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bawgy
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Post by Bawgy »

THat is an excellent suggestion Stephen. I may try that on My Venture 24. I like sailing it on the lake cause the cockpit is large enough to take several friends. WE will swim and cookout sometimes and having the Boom up higher would be safer for my non sailing friends . They tend to stand and try to dent my boom with thier head
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Beam's Reach
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Post by Beam's Reach »

What a smart guy! And to think he's only an Engineer. With that kind of knowledge, he could probably be a Dealer. Is that above Admiral?
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TrueNorth
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Post by TrueNorth »

Really helpful suggestions and comments.

Once I have modified the gooseneck fitting on the mast to go over the "open" portion of the mast track, it can be placed anywhere along the bottom 6 in. or so of that section with just a few #10 fastener holes in the mast. I will then be able to move if for different configurations. Esp. if I the heel is uncomfortable.

For $20 I could buy a second goose neck mast fitting (BWY) and move the boom between these two points with quick release clevis pin. Yes?

Sail is an original stock 26X mainsail-- I have also wondered why I have so much room at the top.?? (Using a stopper knot, directly into the headboard rather than bowline knot around it only explains part of the headroom.)
Frank C

Post by Frank C »

There's always a bit of "topmast" left vacant, not used. That permits a sail to stretch some as it ages, but still be pulled taut to help optimize luff shape.
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