Boom Brake?
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Paul S
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Unless I understand it wrong, the boomkicker keeps the boom supported..and the vang holds it down. I would assume you still want the soft vang model.
You can call Dutchman with any specific installation questions. I was on the phone with them daily until I got it where I have it now. They are very helpful
You can call Dutchman with any specific installation questions. I was on the phone with them daily until I got it where I have it now. They are very helpful
- live2shift
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What is your exact setup Paul?
Paul can you describe what exact setup you have
Is the Dutchman Boom Brake a model 250 or 250B?
What Vang make/Model are you using?
Any other mods to this setup?
I hate reinventing the wheel!! thanks jeff
Is the Dutchman Boom Brake a model 250 or 250B?
What Vang make/Model are you using?
Any other mods to this setup?
I hate reinventing the wheel!! thanks jeff
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Paul S
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whichever model is for the soft vang.
I have the stock Mac vang.
You will need line, a line clutch, and a block.
I have the boom brake line tied off on the starboard stantion, through the brake, to a block on the port stantion, to a rope clutch on the deck in line with the winch (in case you need to use the winch)
It works great...once you get it dialed in.
If you have an M you will have to pin the mast from rotating.
Paul
I have the stock Mac vang.
You will need line, a line clutch, and a block.
I have the boom brake line tied off on the starboard stantion, through the brake, to a block on the port stantion, to a rope clutch on the deck in line with the winch (in case you need to use the winch)
It works great...once you get it dialed in.
If you have an M you will have to pin the mast from rotating.
Paul
- live2shift
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Bom Brake - Rotating Mast?
Thanks for the description Paul.
Why do you need to stop the mast from rotating?
Why do you need to stop the mast from rotating?
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Paul S
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It makes adjusting it a lot easier. you can adjust the brake to varying levels of tightness.. from unmovable to loose to autojybe..at a slower rate than it banging over and anything in between.
Just takes a drillbit and a stainless pin to lock it in place. a 5 minute mod.
I also like to lock the mast for when I take it down..keeps it from flopping around when you are de-rigging and trailering.
It is also useful for motoring at night to keep the running light pointed straight ahead.
Just takes a drillbit and a stainless pin to lock it in place. a 5 minute mod.
I also like to lock the mast for when I take it down..keeps it from flopping around when you are de-rigging and trailering.
It is also useful for motoring at night to keep the running light pointed straight ahead.
- live2shift
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Paul S
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it wont work well not pinned as you will be relying on the tention of the mast rotated to one side or the other for its tension. Not sure if the mast can take that kind of force. It probably can, but it is kinda hard to use with out it stationary.. I tried it not pinned and it didn't work too well. Kinda hard to explain.. but once you try it not pinned, you will see.
Having the knob and the rope clutch work well together.. the knob controls how fast the rope goes through the unit (friction). at the clutch you control how much locking you want..from full lock.. to looser.. I guess you could do it all from the knob.. but running up and adjusting it on your belly every time you want to adjust it will get old real fast!
Also the thickness of the rope has a lot to do with it. They suggest 2 different sizes.. I went with the thicker size..which is too thick for the mac I think.. I need to try the thinner size (dont rememner the size, but their instructions tell you the range).
It takes a while to get it dialed in.. but it is nice when you have an accidential jybe, you see the mast go over much slower (or not at all). Just remember to set it before you get into the situation where you will need it.
I also like to use it when we raft up or go to a dock and such.. raise up the mast with the topling lift..and lock it with the brake..so the boom is rigid and wont flop around and it is out of the way.
Paul
Having the knob and the rope clutch work well together.. the knob controls how fast the rope goes through the unit (friction). at the clutch you control how much locking you want..from full lock.. to looser.. I guess you could do it all from the knob.. but running up and adjusting it on your belly every time you want to adjust it will get old real fast!
Also the thickness of the rope has a lot to do with it. They suggest 2 different sizes.. I went with the thicker size..which is too thick for the mac I think.. I need to try the thinner size (dont rememner the size, but their instructions tell you the range).
It takes a while to get it dialed in.. but it is nice when you have an accidential jybe, you see the mast go over much slower (or not at all). Just remember to set it before you get into the situation where you will need it.
I also like to use it when we raft up or go to a dock and such.. raise up the mast with the topling lift..and lock it with the brake..so the boom is rigid and wont flop around and it is out of the way.
Paul
- John Christian
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I am installing the Garhauer rigid vang this weekend. If I follow the thread correctly my old vang can now be used as a preventer attached to the stanchion. Can’t wait to try it, we do a lot of wing on wing sailing.
Previous to the Mac most of my sailing was done in Lasers. The Jibe maneuver was a flat "S" course. Bearing away immediately after the Jibe would help stall the momentum of the mast / boom and prevent broaching. Without that pause you could transition from "sailor" to "projectile" very rapidly.....
Previous to the Mac most of my sailing was done in Lasers. The Jibe maneuver was a flat "S" course. Bearing away immediately after the Jibe would help stall the momentum of the mast / boom and prevent broaching. Without that pause you could transition from "sailor" to "projectile" very rapidly.....
- tangentair
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As I understand things when headed down wind you want plenty of belly on the main sail so the vang is not really needed, you can then unhook it from the base of the mast and move it to the stanchon that is on the same side as the boom preventing an accidental jibe, it also prevents a deliberate jibe until you unhook it. - so much for running lines aft and single handing - have to tie off the wheel and scramble.
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Paul S
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thats what I used to do before the boom brake - used the vang as a preventer. Again, after a few times going up there..wind blowing behind me.. uhooking it, moving it to the other side.. got old pretty fast..figured there is a better way!
Using the vang as a preventer did work well. Just the logistics (and danger) of moving it over and over.
Having a single control line to lock it or adjust it so it 'brakes' as it jybes is pretty nice, and less dangerous.
Using the vang as a preventer did work well. Just the logistics (and danger) of moving it over and over.
Having a single control line to lock it or adjust it so it 'brakes' as it jybes is pretty nice, and less dangerous.
- Trouts Dream
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Just a thought regarding a poor mans boom brake.
If a single line were to be attached at the top of the vang, run to a block at the starboard stanchion base, back to the cockpit, then to a block on the port stanchion and back to the top of the vang. If this line were long enough to place 3 to 5 wraps on the unused winch drum that would provide enough friction to slow an accidental jibe while still allowing the line to be thrown off from the cockpit. It would also be possible to fix the line to a cleat or such but I don't think I would recommend that.
Any comments. I may have missed something here.
If a single line were to be attached at the top of the vang, run to a block at the starboard stanchion base, back to the cockpit, then to a block on the port stanchion and back to the top of the vang. If this line were long enough to place 3 to 5 wraps on the unused winch drum that would provide enough friction to slow an accidental jibe while still allowing the line to be thrown off from the cockpit. It would also be possible to fix the line to a cleat or such but I don't think I would recommend that.
Any comments. I may have missed something here.
- live2shift
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Poor Mans Boom Brake
The poor mans boom brake sounds like it makes too much sense. I have seen a diagram of this setup somewhere. Is this some kind of standard setup?
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Hardcrab
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Various opinions on vang usage can differ from tangentair's.
It is thought that one needs max tension on the vang when running downwind. Otherwise, the boom will lift up, thereby reducing the amount of effective sail area exposed to the wind.
This boom lifting may also cause some "air-dumping/spillage" to occur.
"Belly" in the sail is not a positive factor for the pure wind resistance needed for DDW sailing. Maximum sail area is a very positive factor.
A tight vang to keep the boom down, a tight halyard and a tight outhaul will keep the sails effective area as large as possible, a good thing.
(Just my 2 cents, subject to revision on different logic).
It is thought that one needs max tension on the vang when running downwind. Otherwise, the boom will lift up, thereby reducing the amount of effective sail area exposed to the wind.
This boom lifting may also cause some "air-dumping/spillage" to occur.
"Belly" in the sail is not a positive factor for the pure wind resistance needed for DDW sailing. Maximum sail area is a very positive factor.
A tight vang to keep the boom down, a tight halyard and a tight outhaul will keep the sails effective area as large as possible, a good thing.
(Just my 2 cents, subject to revision on different logic).
- tangentair
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