Proper Prop for 50HP Honda

[metincelikbilek]

Dear all,

I have a Mac Gregor 26 with Honda 50HP.
I am in search of the right propeller since the default one came with Honda does not reach the benchmark speeds.

I have read couple of suggestions in another topic but could not match it with my engine.

My Honda requires 10inch in diameter and current prop is 11 pitch.
I expect a saturation around 5500rpm but it seems there is stil unused power in the engine.

Has anyone a similar experience?

Do you have a prop suggestion for the best performance with 50HP Honda?

Thanks in advance,

Save trips, sails and motorsails.

Metin Celikbilek

[Catigale]

You should install a prop that lets the engine reach the recommended rpm level at Wide Open Throttle (usually abbreviated WOT)

I dont know the number for the Honda 50 but your 5500 rpm sounds about right to me, that is, I think your prop is about right

[Divecoz]

You'll have to do a search, but this subject has been discussed here numerous times for sure. I have a 50 HP Merc BF and use an 11 pitch and get good results. I run a WOT of just about 5650 rpm. So your very close to max performance imho.....

[Pacamac-uk]

Try
http://www.turningpointpropellers.com/

They have a prop calculator which lists various boats. I know the Mac19 is on there and I expect the M26 is also though I haven't looked.

[Moe]

Honda 50 Prop -- Solas Amita 4-Blade

The Honda 50 is a small displacement outboard. This is compounded by its relatively high 2.08:1 gear ratio, which has less torque multiplication than lower (higher numerically) gear sets. Both of these are addressed by using a lower pitch prop. What's important here is that the prop you use, primarily the pitch, allows the motor to get into the 5,500-6,000 rpm range when the boat is as heavily loaded as it will ever be (and ballasted). This can help prevent engine-damaging detonation like that you get in a car when using too high of a gear.

It also uses a smaller diameter prop, which has less bite on the water than the larger blades of 14" diameter props used by some outboards. Adding a fourth blade can help offset some of that disadvantage. Although you are adding some of the drag of the larger diameter prop, it isn't as significant at the relatively low speeds of a 50 HP Mac.

[Luke]

I have the Honda BF50.
Originally it had the Honda 11-1/4 x 13 pitch prop.
13 pitch is too high.

I switched to an 11-3/4 x 10 inch Honda prop.
(Honda part# 58130-ZV5-860ZA ).
Max speed now is at 5000 RPM.
Will rev to 5500 RPM.

I also have a Michigan Wheel 12.25 X 10 prop.
WOT and Top speed around 17 mph, same as with the Honda prop.

Do not get a prop with more than 10 pitch.
Your engine should reach its rated max RPM.

Luke

[Robert]

I tested 9 props on my Suzuki DF50. The Suzuki engine turns a few more rpm and has a little taller gear ratio than the Honda, but both turn the prop at the same prop rpm.
..
So, if this board keeps old messages search able, do a search for Suzuki DF50 prop test or prop pitch and you will find lots of data.
..
I recommend the Honda / Solas made props. I like the 3 blade 12.25 diameter 9 pitch stainless steel prop best, it looks good. The 4 blade 11.8 diameter 9 pitch prop is just as good. Both have the least difference in full ballast vs empty ballast rpm which tells me they have excellent grip on the water. Both have more room than stock for he exhaust to flow out. The 9 pitch will run your RPM right at the top of the allowed range with ballast empty and a light boat. I think that it is better to prop for a loaded boat. If you want to stay farther away from top RPM choose the 10 pitch.

[Terry]

I recommend the Honda / Solas made props. I like the 3 blade 12.25 diameter 9 pitch stainless steel prop best, it looks good. The 4 blade 11.8 diameter 9 pitch prop is just as good. Both have the least difference in full ballast vs empty ballast rpm which tells me they have excellent grip on the water. Both have more room than stock for he exhaust to flow out. The 9 pitch will run your RPM right at the top of the allowed range with ballast empty and a light boat. I think that it is better to prop for a loaded boat. If you want to stay farther away from top RPM choose the 10 pitch.

I have to agree on your recommendations Solas, makes OEM for the Honda. What about the SS prop you mentioned, is it the Solas Saturn, can you provide a ball park cost$$? I have heard in the past that SS props place more resistance on the lower engine and wear it out faster, is this true? I have always wanted one but price and wear are of some concern.

[atzserv]

I wanted a new 4 blade prop after reading several posts about the handling around the marina. I had to get the Michigan 4 blade prop after finding out that the Solas adapter for the honda was no longer made. I seem to also remember that Solas 4 blade was going through a change. This was at the end of last season. I only mentions this because if you order the Solas and they tell you you need to get the adapter elsewhere there is a reaqson for it. That is how I found out. It was news to them but they fixed me up with the Michigan.

Gary

[Captain Jim]

Gary,

I am planning on putting a 4 blade solaris 11.8 x 9 prop on my 2006 expecting it will improve handling while docking and in other close quarters situations. Since you have some experience with your Michigan 4 blade prop, what is your experience, did handling improve drastically? What are your prop specs? Thank-you in advance for your comments.

Happy sailing,
Jim

[Terry]

I wanted a new 4 blade prop after reading several posts about the handling around the marina. I had to get the Michigan 4 blade prop after finding out that the Solas adapter for the honda was no longer made. I seem to also remember that Solas 4 blade was going through a change. This was at the end of last season. I only mentions this because if you order the Solas and they tell you you need to get the adapter elsewhere there is a reaqson for it. That is how I found out. It was news to them but they fixed me up with the Michigan.

Gary

I ordered and now use a Solas Alcup 4 X 11.4 X 9.75 (had it re-pitched) and the prop arrived with the few little parts that fit on the Honda. They use a slightly different shaft mounting set-up, no big deal, I cannot imagine them not supplying it with their props, it is only a few small pieces and they supplied me with a spare set if the current ones wear out, (they are rubber). I like the added control and mid range speed the 4 blades provide, but I did notice that top end speed was slightly less than my slip neighbors 3 blade on the same boat. with same engine.

[Ivan Awfulitch]

I wanted a new 4 blade prop after reading several posts about the handling around the marina. I had to get the Michigan 4 blade prop after finding out that the Solas adapter for the honda was no longer made. I seem to also remember that Solas 4 blade was going through a change. This was at the end of last season. I only mentions this because if you order the Solas and they tell you you need to get the adapter elsewhere there is a reaqson for it. That is how I found out. It was news to them but they fixed me up with the Michigan.

Gary

The Solas adapters are still made, and available off the shelf. You need YC-KT and you can get them from
http://www.bellrpg.net/soderbloom/MA/gr ... &GRP=72510

The best prices I found on the props were here
http://www.a1discountprop.com/solashondaalcup.htm

I'm running the 11.9 X9 with the above adapter and have been very pleased with performance, especially at low speeds in the marina.

[PeteC]

I had purchased a Solas Amita based on discussions last year. I wanted a prop with the built in hub (like my Honda prop) instead of an insert, thus the Amita and not the Allcup.

see: http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... highlight=

I had a very bad experience with this prop (actually 2 props).

I purchased from a local prop dealer that has a very good reputation. He said I should not use a prop with cup in it for a boat thart is large relative to the motor. So he said he would machine out the cup. When I ran the prop it made some odd noises and over-revved at times. I took the prop back and he said he should not have taken the cup out.

So he ordered a new prop and I ran it unmodified, other than a balance check by the shop. This prop had the same odd noises (hard to describe) as the first prop. The best speed I got was about 12.5 mph and it ran rough too. So I take it back and the guy said occasionally (1 out of 200?) they have a situation like this and they can never figure it out. So he took the prop back and refunded my money.

The only issue I could see was that the prop fit on the shaft a little different than the Honda prop.

I do not know why others have run the Amita OK and I didn't.

Oh, I just remembered I had tried a Michigan prop the year before and had problems, I think due to the prop being slightly overpitched. That was another shop that said they could repitch it but not guarantee the results. Fortunately they took the prop back.

If you can buy from a reputable local shop you will be better off if you have problems.

[Robert]

Terry,
I view the prop materials available as four types.
1.) SS Stainless Steel
2.) Aluminum regular soft casting
3.) Solas pressure cast aluminum hard casting
4.) composite usually nylon with fiberglass inside
..
The stiffer and stronger the prop material the thinner the prop can be and that is good for efficiency. It means less blade losses and more room for free exhaust flow.
..
In my opinion the SS prop is nicest to look at. And since it is the stiffest and strongest is will be most efficient. SS props are much heavier than aluminum. My SS prop was twice the weight of the Suzuki 10 pitch and at least three times as heavy as the Solas 4 blade 11.8 diameter 9 pitch. The Solas aluminum prop uses a different hub that is lighter than the standard pressed in rubber hub. The Solas SS uses the pressed in rubber hub.
..
I have heard that the lighter weight softer props are gentler on the lower unit of the outboard in the event of hitting something with the prop. That makes perfect sense. All props have some sort of slip in case of impact mechanism - the rubber hub or the Solas light weight hub. If you trust your insert, then you can use any prop. If you don't trust the prop insert consider a soft aluminum prop or a well engineered composite prop. Consider www.piranha.com they make some well engineered props. When I was testing they were nice and let me try two props, they did not have a high thrust prop back then, they do now part number 129C, but I have not tested that one.

[Moe]

Lighter props are also easier on a gear train that has lash in it because they're easier to accelerate when shifting into forward or reverse. With heavier, stainless props, you can get a hard "thunk" when shifting into gear.