I'm thinking I may need to get a new steering unit for my '97 . I've been reading the previous threads, and am leaning towards the Uflex Rotech (sold as Ultraflex in the UK).
However, I'm not sure of the benefits (or otherwise) of a zero feedback version. I can see the advantages of being able to leave the helm and know it's going to stay where you left it, but are there any downsides? I know it would prevent use of an autopilot operating directly on the rudder linkage, but that's not on my wish-list
I've also seen varying recommendations on optimum cable length, with 10' seeming to be the most popular. The units on sale over here seem to start at 3.5 or 4 mtr minimum (11'8" or 13'4") - are longer lengths likely to be a problem? I guess preventing it dangling down in the berth space is the biggest issue.
I just replaced my old 'X' steering rack and cable with the 'M' rack and pinion steering. To date I'm very pleased with it.
Cable length is 10 feet. Original 'X'length is 8ft I believe.
I don't worry about cramping the rear birth as we don't use it for sleeping. Mainly a catch all!
Hi Rick,
We have zero feedback steering that was put in by the P.O. so we have never sailed a Mac without it. We had sailed another kind of boat before that didn't have wheel steering and really like the feedback that the tiller constantly gave us. With the zero feedback steering system, you really do get ZERO feedback from the wheel. I constantly oversteered at first and still do more zigzagging than I think I should. Perhaps if I had learned to control the Mac with regular steering first it would have been easier. That's the only disadvantage to me.
You also cannot turn the wheel with the motor or rudders. Ours is so strong that even with the motor up and attached, it stays exactly where you put it. It is, therefore, great for setting a course and then popping into the cabin to get a soda. If conditions are constant, it's like an auto pilot! We often just lay in the cockpit without holding the wheel. Even with minor changes in wind, you only have to touch the wheel once in a while. When we had the boat with the tiller, someone had to hold on to it every minute! I didn't like that at all... but sailing in gusty winds sure was easier!
Ned
I have the No feed back twin rack syatem on my boat one cable to each the rudders & one to the eng. I sail with the eng. conected , in the down possition because the big hydro foil on the eng acts as a second winged C/B , anyway its works great almost like an auto pilot once you have set a coarse you can just sit back & relax, steer with the sails ! it holds its own coarse you do loose the feed back from the rudders but I'm not racing & you soon learn to feel the boats movement better ! & learn how to adjust to each his own ! , on the bigger boats with the huge wheel I dont think they get that much feed back !! Eric !!!! would know for sure, not sure their is with hydraulic systems either !!
waltpm wrote:How big a job was it to replace the 97 x steering with the M steering.
Ours is an '02. I don't think the steering is any different than the previous boats other than the rudder brackets being stainless steel.
Not a big job at all. Equal to changing out the original system!
waltpm wrote:How big a job was it to replace the 97 x steering with the M steering.
Ours is an '02. I don't think the steering is any different than the previous boats other than the rudder brackets being stainless steel.
Not a big job at all. Equal to changing out the original system!
The X steering was upgraded on the '98 (I think) model to a rack unit. This involved making the console taller to accomodate. On these boats you can easily swap in the M steering, but on 96-97 boats there's no room. You have to stick with a "hub-style" helm unit.
From other posts it seems the Uflex Rotech can be fitted as a direct replacement, and has a high-quality multi-gear system in the hub. Search the board for "Uflex".
It's the original chrome 16" wheel ('97 X), the hub has a black plastic cover that looks as though it should prise off, but even hammering a knife in under the edges won't shift it. Even after that I'm not sure how you get the wheel off the helm shaft.
Or should I just cut my losses, saw if off, and get a nice new wheel as well
. I've been reading the previous threads, and am leaning towards the Uflex Rotech (sold as Ultraflex in the UK).
