MacGregorSailors.com

Just got my 2002 26X trailer back from Trailer King. Got new brake back plates, all new brakes, new studs & lug nuts, bearings, new drums, new tires, and a master cylinder service with fluid replacement.

Paid $1200 for all parts and labor and included saftey inspection.

The trailer was pretty rusty but structually sound - just wire brushed and painted it as well.

Did I pay too much? Or is this in line with what everyone else has seen?

Sounds a bit steep.

I installed this kit from BWY on mine a few years back

http://www.bwyachts.com/web%20catalog%2 ... brakes.htm

For $393 you get all new DISK brakes, new studs, lug nuts, bearings and backup solenoid. Tires run about $90 each installed for ST radials. As part of the installation you end up installing the backup solenoid and bleeding the brakes. I would guess your drum parts cost even less.

My opinion is that an extra $600+ in labor you paid isn't worth it. When I did mine it took about 2 hours to do the complete job and I'm no super auto mechanic.

I certainly would not have put new drum brakes on when you can get disks that are a bolt on replacement at a very reasonable price.. Disk's are so much easier to maintain.

Thanks Duane - I had a feeling the price was high. If there is one thing I should have learned from reading this site for the past 6 months, it's to check with you guys first.

Well, at the very least I have some peace of mind that my trailer is safer and at least the brakes function. It would have been nice to get disc brakes though.

I think I had a panic knee jerk reaction when I tried to inspect the brakes an broke off 2 lug nuts. They were all badly rusted on. I was afraid to I'd get a flat and have no way to get the wheel off.

I've got that problem with my Com-Pac's trailer right now. 3 lugs nuts holding on one wheel, and that tire's dry rotted. Grr.

Sounds about right for the West Coast. Prices vary drastically depending on where you are.

Rusted bolts, not fun. My brakes seized and I had to work on them. I couldn't remove wheel lug nuts other than breaking them. I went home for more tools and it took me 2 hours with the torch to remove all lug nuts and be able to work on brakes. Heating them one by one until I was able to undo them. In fact I disabled my brakes as I am now towing only in marina and they were not worth further maintenance.
Zoran

I paid $2000 to get a second axle added, probably would have been better buying a new trailer..... I am happy with the results but it still is the same 13 year old trailer with better peace of mind....
Terry

Thats not out line for drum brake replacement and new tires - the labour was probably charged as actuals (fair) and they easily could have spent some nice hours torching off nuts

Im guessing labour rate is 100 per hour on Long Island isnt it?

Did you test for rust in the enclosed trailer structural parts? The center beam on my Mac26X trailer is a box frame. I have heard of box frame parts that still look good on the outside, failing catastrophically from rusting on the inside.

Catigale - I am in NY, but Trailer King is in Poughkeepsie. Labor was $100 and hour for ASE certified tech. $600 labor. I'm pretty handy and would have done the work myself but just no time to do it.

Robert - I did the old hammer rust test. I also asked Trailer King to asses the structure of the trailer before they did any work.

Pouhkeepsie is south enough to be NYC priced so you are probably paying 20% more than 'all the way upstate" if you will

Still, thats hard, knucklebusting work and I dont think the guys were swimming in dollars after your job.

I guess you can take comfort in that the work was probably done right. I try to save money when I can, but a lot of times I get things torn apart and find more wrong than I thought. Then I have to make another trip or order more parts, where if I had taken it to someone they probably would have had the stuff.

Daniel

HI FROM WESTERN
AUSTRALIA...Most of the comments seem to be from the 'good 'ol USA' but that's o.k. I know Macs are built to a price, but as soon as I get a chance, I will be stripping my trailer [ 06/steel] of its wheels, springs and brakes, and having it hot dipped galvanised. I built a similar float on float off tandem trailer for my previous boat, a bilge keel VIVACITY [ English design] 20ft. and after the professional welder did his job, I had it totally dipped. then got it all home and put it all together with bought galvanised springs and wheels. and cold galv. painted everything else. every nut and bolt was treated with anti seize from the mining industry. And I have never had any trouble with undoing nuts etc.
One thing i did add though...Because of our strong winds, there is a tendency for the boat to drift sideways when recovering. Getting itself offline. I ran two ropes from the tips of the 'V' guide bar bacl to the side guide posts. Now she can't go there no more. siodeways that is. Will be covering same ropes with hollow swimming pool spagetti tubes, multiple colours if needed, for further hull protection. Regards to all...

Robert wrote:Did you test for rust in the enclosed trailer structural parts? The center beam on my Mac26X trailer is a box frame. I have heard of box frame parts that still look good on the outside, failing catastrophically from rusting on the inside.

This is a seriously good point. There have been several mentions of the trailer tongue breaking off because of interior rust.

Just FYI,
Keeping your lug nuts free, lubed and torqued is very important. Just because they are rusted on does not mean you will not lose a wheel. The weekest part on the trailer, the load limiting factor, is the clamping force holding the wheel to the hub. The wheel bearings / axle / hubs are way stronger than that. I remove, wire brush, lube (w/ waterproof grease) and reinstall the lugs every year. Use a torque wrench & torque to 120 ft/lbs, less will cause failure, more will cause failure.

OK, I'm done now.