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Well, I started on my tiller pilot Mod by ordering the

Simrad TP 22 today

It has 154# thrust and most of the 'upscale features' of the more expensive tillerpilots (Simtalk, NMEA talk, steer to wind, steer to GPS) but costs <$500 with the remote.

I will mount on the back deck, modifying the steering gear attachment pin to accept the TP22 on top. I will disconnect for manual steering and intended use is only for prolonged cruising on Greats and Cape Cod.

I chose to go with a tillerpilot to give me steering redundancy in case of steering gear/cable failure.....and Im too cheap for a wheelpilot

Razz



I will post photos and updates as the project progresses through the winter.

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I had a post from another X owner who had successfully done this, so Im sure it will work. It might not work on closed loop to wind but I just need it to helm for me on long trips.

Im about 4x over-rated for weight with this unit, so lots of headroom on thrust.

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Just an update - I havent started the mod on the boat yet due to heavy travel (4 airports in one day today!) and made the mistake of buying a house for my folks too on the new year, so project time has been, ahem, limited.

Ok....Sps.....where be them photos of the Morro Bay Adventure?




Rich

coming...just got home last night.....

Please keep us posted. I was thinking about this idea for a long time and finally decided not to do it once I built the deck over the control arms. My only concern was quick disconnection in case of an emergency (impossible now when I have a deck). It will take some time to clime behind the seat and flip it up and disconnect. Maybe a line attached to it just to pull it up will work. Tiller autopilots can be find for a quarter of the price of wheel pilot and somehow i trust them more.

Zoran

First good look at the mounting problem of the TP.

I havent decided if I will drill out the end of the TP (cup and round ball mounting pin) or leave it stock. It doesnt look easy to rig the stock pin into the steering gear so Im leaning to the drill out option.

There isnt enough room to fit the TP exactly perpindicular to the link bar on the motor/rudder combination, so it will be offset slightly. Given the over rating on the thrust, this shouldnt be a problem.

The movement of the link bar limits where you can mount the TP to the rear deck, pretty much dictating that the TP has to mounted up on some sort of bar above the linkage. Piece of wood will do it, Ill probably use this as a trial since I wont have to drill any holes in the boat either.

Using a piece of 2x4 would give a force of only 150#divided by 7 inches sq or about 20 psi on the side wall of the transom, so that might not even need reinforcement

OK- here is the latest

Im now looking at a portside install which seems much easier. If I can get my Honey-does done this week, Im hoping to get my design pieces to the SS fab guy next weekend.

Sorry about that small text - Ill fix it when I get a chance

Cat -
Since when do you go out without the Jr. Officers? I can see it now..."uhh, Dad, the Simrad is falling off again! I'll disengage...Going to manual!" (In a girly voice)" Avast ye there mateys, I'm captain now!!...Aaarrrggghhh!!"

Well, believe it or not I finally got all the mechanicals done over the holiday weekend. Everything outside is finished, so the electrical wiring can be done in the boat on a rainy day (or even at anchor of course)

Didnt think I would get this one done before CHunk this season, but the worst is behind me. Pix to follow shortly.

I took a block of deck cedar and drilled two holes in it.
4 1/2 inch SS bolts through it and carefully drilled two holes in the port transom of the boat for mounting



I gorped it with 5200 and then attached it to the boat
For the bulkhead electrical connection I considered putting it in the footwheel in the cockpit but then worried it would get stepped on and snapped off - then I noticed a white plug already in perfect place on the transom, so I just enlarged the hole and put the plug there!




On the inside, I opened up the holes to back the bolts with 2 inch fender washers. An easier way to do this is to drill 1/4 inch pilot hulls first, then cut the 2 inch holes through the liner with the hole saw. Using a hole saw without a guide drill is tough.

Fender washer, lock washer, nut is the order of the day.



Last step will be how to attach the TP pin to the SS guide bar.

I could

1 Fabricate a wooden dowel from a fairlead and drill for the pin
2 Have the pin welded to the link
3 Attach a block of cedar with a Ubolt and go from there.

OKay I went the route of cedar block and Ubolt

This means the whole TP mod involved a sum total of two holes in the boat.

I connected the power up and it works great! Will swing rudder and engine through the whole helm range

You cannot turn helm with the TP attached.
It pops up with hand pressure - kids can do it. I will have a lanyard on it so it can be popped off quickly if needed.

Shot from rear




Close up of rear TP mount



The steering bar just clears under the wooden mount - watch this clearance carefully

Close up of steering bar mount



Two subtle things here - the wood must clear the transom deck when hard over to port, so it cant go too far below the bar. I shimmed up the bar with a couple of fender washers to add a little extra clearance

Note the cutout on the wood which gives it firm contact with the steering bar - if you dont have this it the TP will just tip the wood.

Nice mod. Must hold the record for start-to-finish time though.

Shame I can't do it on mine - I replaced the steering with a no-feedback unit, which means the steering bar can't be moved directly, only the wheel will actuate the steering. It's great for leaving the helm at a fixed position , but totally rules out this kind of mod,

Cheers, Rick