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Is it really all they claim it to be ?
Is there a 4 stroke motor you shouldn't use it in ? Hoping kmclemore among others will have some insight on this topic.

Is it really all they claim it to be ?

Who knows? However I have happily been using it for the past 4 years.
I purchase the 15,000 mile Mobil 1 variety, and run it exclusively on :
2 pick-up trucks, 1 van, 1 aged Mazda, my RV as well as the Mac26X Honda 20hp, and several motorcycles. Typically on my four wheelers I calculated it to cost about $30 per year, whereas using petroleum base lubes I figured at least 2-3 changes per year costing between $50 -$75 per year total.

Scientifically done?...........Ugh, ugh. But after 7,500 miles the stuff may not be the same colour, but it sure feels like it hasn't broken down any.

Ron

I love the synthetics, particularly Mobil 1, for general 4-stroke use. You can successfully extend change times, it significantly reduces engine wear and it holds pressure very well. I use it in all my road cars and I've found that it genuinely does reduce wear. (My boat is a 2-stroke, so I don't use it there, obviously.)

Having said that, I would never use synthetic oil to break-in a motor. It's simply too slippery and therefore prevents bedding in of the parts, particularly the rings & cylinders - result can be a smokey motor.

My suggestion is to use a high-quality conventional motor oil during break-in (I like Castol GTX as I've found in racing it holds a higher pressure for a longer time)... then when you've fully bedded-in all the components (see manufacturer's recommendation), drain and change with synthetic... run for a short while (probably around 5 hours in a boat), then change for synthetic again to ensure you've got all the conventional oil out.

I've found that you can generally double the change times using synthetic oils without any significant wear difference on the motor.

Finally, one other caveat - never use synthetic in an older or somewhat tired motor... you'll develop more leaks that you'd ever believe could exist! Stick with conventional oils in those motors.

Synthetic is a good product...but so is regular oil.

Never had any issue with any car (or boat for that matter) running on regular oil. Ever. never have known anyone in my life that had a problem directly attributed to the type of oil used. Well, not so true. I knew 2 owners of Lexus cars (when we had a Lexus) that had main seal leaks..they were the only ones I knew running synthetic. The person that bought our lexus was replacing a VW that used synthetic since new and also had a main seal leak in his VW. Even in my 2 MGBs and Land Rover motors (well never had a main seal leak actually, ever). I never had a main seal leak!! Not saying those leaks from those 3 owners were caused by the use of synthetic, but gave me something to poder..coincedence or not?

I think a standard automobile motor should last, now-a-days, about 250,000 miles, using conventional motor oil...That same motor (IMO), should last about a quarter-million miles running on synthetic.

My 220k Honda motor (oil change 5K mi interval) was partially broken down by a honda mechanic..wanted to know if I had a new motor put in recently..as it was virtually flawless, no wear, no sludge, no nothing.

From American (whatever that means now) cars, British, German and Japanese cars I have owned, never used anything but conventional oil , every motor lasted (or is lasting) a long time. No unusual oil issues, ever.

Stick with what makes you feel better.

Oh yea... STAY AWAY from Castrol for break in..they have removed most of the zinc from the oil..It is fine for a broken in motor..but use something else now (Rotella is rumored to be good). HUGE discussions on the MG message boards about this. Calls to Castrol have confirmed this as well. Castrol does not now recommend a solid tappet motor using GTX for break in since the reformulation (at least until their internal investigation is done). But Castrol has confirmed the potential problem.

Regarding Castrol oils:

"Thank you for contacting Castrol North America.

The GTX Line has a zinc level of 0.075%.

As indicated on our product packaging, the current engine oil category API SM/ILSAC GF-4 is fully backwards compatible or ‘back serviceable’ and has been extensively tested. Valve train issues are not anticipated with the use of modern engine oil in older cars of OEM stock configuration. In fact, current SM/GF-4 engine oils are subjected to testing that is far more intensive than engine oils of previous API/ILSAC categories.

To clarify, in general, ZDDP levels have been reduced a small amount in the current category engine oils (API SM/ILSAC GF-4) in compliance with industry regulations that set maximum levels of Sulphur and Phosphorus, but are still at levels that provide ample engine protection.

Special procedures have always been recommended for the proper initial break-in of a new, matched, cam and lifter set; which include the use of a properly formulated cam break-in lubricant paste which typically contains a healthy dose of molybdenum. Engine oil alone is typically insufficient for break-in of a new cam and lifter set, particularly in a vintage engine type built to historic specifications.

In regards to camshaft failure, Camshaft failure can be attributed to numerous possible causes. Only a thorough analysis of each case can identify the root cause(s) of any failure.

We trust this information addresses your concerns.

Thank you again for your interest in Castrol, The Technology Leader!

Castrol Consumer Relations"

"...Engines such as yours that use flat tappets could be sensitive to reduced levels of Phosphorous in oil formulations, it appears that 0.1% is about the cut off point, so oils for flat tappets should contain >.1%.

Phos has been steadily going down as the amount of ZDDP has been reduced to ensure compatibility with exhaust after treatment

From our range the following are higher than 0.1%

Castrol GTX Diesel 15W-40 (CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,CF,SL)
Castrol GTX High Mileage 20W-50 (SL,SM)
Castrol GTX 20W-50 (SL,SM)
Castrol HD 30 (SL,SM)
Castrol HD 40 (SL,SM)
Castrol Syntec Blend Truck 15W-40 (CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,CF,SL)(Semi-synthetic)
Castrol Tection Extra 15W-40 (CI4Plus, CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,SL)
Castrol Hypuron S 15W-40 (CI4Plus,CH4,CG4,SL)(Semi-synthetic)
Castrol Syntec 5W-40 (SL,CF)(Synthetic)
Castrol GO! 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil (SG)
Castrol GO! 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil (SG)
Castrol Grand Prix 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil 10W-40 (SG)
Castrol Grand Prix 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil 20W-50 (SG)
Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60 (SJ)(Synthetic)

Regarding Mobil 1 oils:

"The 15W50 has high levels of zinc/phos and has not been reduced and is an excellent choice for your application. If you need further assistance contact ExxonMobil at 1-800-ASK-MOBIL"

Here's a list of some common oils, in decending order of Zinc content:
(apologies for the lousy formatting - if you want this in an Excel chart, contact me off list using the 'email' button below)

Name / P (ppm) / Zn (ppm) / Viscosity
Power Service Oil Extender 3567 4945
STP Red 2115 3932
STP Blue 1704 2436
Mobil 1 V Twin 1329 1949 20w50
Redline 1440 1872 10w40
Valvoline Prem. Blue 1314 1838 15w40
Delvac 1 1390 1803 5w40
Motul Tekma Mega 1220 1737 15w40
Delvac 1300 Super 1380 1702 15w40
Schaeffer 7000 Supreme 1249 1626 20w50
Chevron Delo 400 1191 1622 15w40
Rotella 1278 1555 15w40
Rotella 1397 1552 5w40
Royal Purple Max Cycle 3907 1458 20w50
Mobil 1 Extended Perf. 1315 1428 15w50
Castrol GTX 1157 1422 20w50
Royal Purple Racing 51 1285 1417 20w50
Kendal GT-1 1229 1415
Mobil 1 Super Syn 1343 1390 15w50
Castrol GTX High Mile 1248 1382 20w50
Royal Purple OEM 1290 1337 20w50
Motul Competition 1148 1327 15w50
Castrol TWS 425 1294 10w60
Valvoline VR1 1085 1293 20w50
Torco V Series ST 1030 1286 20w50
Amsoil V-Twin/MC 1193 1281 20w50
Kendall GT 904 1233 20w50
Motul 505.01 VW 973 1226 5w40
Harley Syn3 1081 1182 20w50
CMW Racing Oil Concentrate 2292 1147
Castrol MC2 767 1133 20w50
Castrol Act Evo 765 1126 20w50
Amsoil 7500mi 334 1096 5w20
Elf 505.01 VW 584 1092 5w40
Penn Grade Racing 801 1058 20w50
Mobil 5k Clean 660 1028 10w40
Mobil High Mile 527 1021 10w40
Torco T-4SR 1059 969 20w50
Castrol Syntec 921 914 5w50
Q Full Syn 923 908 5w50
Kendall GT 598 897 10w40
Valvoline Max Life 691 879 20w50
Kendall GT 582 872 10w30
Exxon Superflow 717 848 20w50
Valvoline Max Life Protect 537 768
Valvoline Durablend 566 732 20w50
Valvoline Synpower 356 551
Exxon Av Oil 702 32 20w50
Husqvarna 2-stroke 7 19
CD-2 Maxx Oil Detergent 1 7
Schaeffer Micron Moly 110 5
Bardahl Stop Leak/Smoke 53 4
Exxon Av Break-in oil 1 4 20w50
Boron Motor Silk 0 0

I don't understand the difference between 1/4 million miles and 250,000 miles.

I run Castrol syntec blend and love it. But if you have a leak, it will find it.

Craig LaForce wrote:I don't understand the difference between 1/4 million miles and 250,000 miles.

There isn't..thats the point

Gotcha. Thought maybe you meant to say 1/2 million miles or something.

Synthetic sure is slippery stuff. Seems like I get a lot more power and the engine takes longer for the heater to work in the winter.

Less friction and less heat should mean the motor lasts longer. In any event, I sure like the extra power. It is very noticeable.

Craig LaForce wrote:Synthetic sure is slippery stuff. Seems like I get a lot more power and the engine takes longer for the heater to work in the winter.

Craig, I sure hope most of your heat isn't coming from friction... Rather, it should be coming from that explosion/controlled burning in your cylinders...

Thanks Guys.
Mobile claims they have a syn for older motors formulated NOT to cause leaks . I am seriously considering changing to all syn in all motors.

Merc Does not reccomend it for the Big Foot. It tends to foam inside.

Mobile claims they have a syn for older motors formulated NOT to cause leaks .

Couldnt you just add 5200 to the oil, matching the colour to the colour of your engine case??

I've been told that oil in a car should be changed based on mileage and time. If either one is exceeded then change it. If I used synthetic I'd never get the benefit of the high mileage claims because I'd exceed the recomended maximum time between changes.

BB

I used Redline ester based syn oil in my cars and trucks for years while racing them and never had a repair or a problem. The same vehicles not raced now' but over over 130K miles, are used towing 5200 lbs of travel trailer up the highest passes in the Rockies and the heat of our western deserts, yet do not use any oil between 5 k mile changes.
Naturally I looked to Redline for a lube when I got the Merc for the X. I use their ester based syn oil called "2 stroke watercraft injection oil" and have never needed to even clean the spark plugs. Still on the original factory plugs!
Another important reason is that their ester based syn oil is said to be biodegradeable and certifed safe for water environments by the American EPA several European equivalents. Not so for any dino oils and other syns.

I"ve only got 50K miles on two Ford SUVs that are running with Motorcraft Premium syn/dino blend. So far so good. It appears to be as good as the straight Redline was at 1/4 the price. Inside of the valve cover and everything it covers is clean and shiny. They use no oil and cranked right up even at -20 degrees at 8500 ft in CO.
I think it helps to redline your engines at least once per month, and change at the factory recommended intervals, regardless of which oil you use. Oil change expense is minimal compared to engine rebuild or replacements!