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We bought our Mac26M in August, and since then have had two incidents related to the daggerboard that I thought I would relate in the hopes of protecting other from the same faux pas.
Both incidents had to do with bringing the boat aboard the trailer with the board partially down (inadvertently of course). In the first case I had my son raise the daggerboard, and since he did it vigorously enough that it banged loudly against the "up stop", I was confident it was all the way up. It was only after we had considerable trouble getting the boat on the trailer that I discovered that it had dropped about 6 inches. The net result was that we took one of the bunks off the trailer. Luckily the board did not suffer any damage. I vowed that I would always personally inspect the db to ensure it was all the way up before trying to get the boat on the trailer.
Last month we had a second incident. This time I inspected the board and it was fully retracted. We got the boat on the trailer OK, but as we were pulling over the crest of the boat ramp I heard a dragging sound...the board had managed to come loose and dropped enough to contact the ground. It could not be pulled up, however, because it was wedged between a trailer crossbar on the leading edge, and the back of the db trunk on the trailing edge...we had to back the boat into the water again to get it free.
My "permanent solution" is to add a "U"-shaped bracket to the top of the db through which I can slide a short rod that will lie completely across the upper db deck opening, thus making it impossible for the db to drop, regardless of what happens to the db halyard.

I've thought of having some kind of indicator so a person can tell at a glance. Maybe a rod sticking out the top of the daggerboard that's visible when it's all the way up. If your trailer is like mine, your boat must have not been all the way on. On my trailer if the board is lowered it sits on that crossbar. When trailering I rest my board there because of the lead weight I added to it.

BB

I have tied stopper knots in the line to my daggerboard. I have several knots for various depths and one that indicates full up. Makes adjustment and knowing how much board is down very easy, (i simply slide the desired knot under the cleat).

The indicator of "some sort" reminds me of some WWII aircraft. They had a rod painted in a bright color. It was totally mechanical in that if the gear was down some part of the gear would cause the rod to push out of the top of the wing. The pilot of course could look out both sides of the cockpit and see the little indicators sticking up proudly and know that his gear was down. Of course he didn't know if it was locked...

later...
Nels

How about just using a Sharpie laundry marker ("Rub-a-Dub" waterproof marker) to mark the top-most position and some increments on the daggerboard line where it goes through the cleat? That's what many folks do with their centerboard lines. Tells you at a glance when it's fully up and also helps to adjust it for the proper conditions (sailing, motoring, docking, etc.). You could even use different colors for different positions.

To check if the board is all the way up is usually a little bang when it hits the top or I just look at the hole.

To reduce DB issues, I did a mod on our 04. I put a jam/clam cleat in place of the standard DB cleat, moved the DB cleat back a bit. Not when I pull the line..I just lay it into the groove, zero fallback. Positive locking. After securing it in the jam cleat, I do wrap it around the factory cleat for extra security..but have had no issues..this is by far one of the easiest, best mods I have done.

I just installed 3 Spinlocks,similar to the ones in Pauls' photo. One for the Genoa halyard,one for the main halyard and a spinlock forward of the daggerboard cleat.
Jam cleat or spinlock,either way,it takes the stress off the line while cleating it.
Next item will be a 2:1 block to reduce the effort pulling the board up.

I always try to look at the position of the blocks I added to my board uphaul to make sure it's up but that takes a conscious effort. In the excitement of getting blown around while trying to get into position to get on the trailer I'm afraid I might neglect that final check. Sometimes I leave the board down as long as possible to avoid looking like a bozo if there's a cross-wind. I think I'll implement the rod approach and add a little bobbing clown head to the top as a reminder.

BB

IIRC, the 26X was delivered with a CB cleat just like the jib cleat. I replaced it with a Spinlock PX powercleat as Paul pictures above (halyard maybe?). So my centerboard line is held by the Powercleat, alone.

The centerboard just doesn't require any purchase system for lifting. I guess the basic rigging of pivot and line provides some inate lifting leverage. Seems the "dead lift" of the dagger board must feel heavier than the CB.

I can see the need for an intermediate holding cleat while wrapping that factory cleat ... but I think I'd be tempted to simply eliminate the horn cleat in favor of a Powercleat, or even a jam cleat. I did the same with the factory horn cleats for the rudders ... replaced them with clamcleats as Paul pictures for dagger board.

Seems the "dead lift" of the dagger board must feel heavier than the CB.

The daggerboard is heavier especially in the earlier 'M's that have smaller fill/drain holes drilled in them. The newer ones have larger holes so empty faster and lighten faster when hoisted. Still a 3:1 purchase pully is a cheap, easy little mod that took the strain out for me, and the Admiral. Marking the line for various depths as Kevin mentioned is a good idea too, I used tape but I think I will get those markers he spoke of. I have mine marked in two places, one at 30" the same depth as the rudders and another about 15" so that I can have it down just a foot or so when powering slow to help keep her straight. I also have the crossbar on the trailer and have never had the board fall off of it.

I use a Rope Clutch for the Dagger Board line, with a knotted extension aft to the helm.
Pull on the line until the board is all the way up. Release the line and the board stays up.

KayakDan wrote:I just installed 3 Spinlocks,similar to the ones in Pauls' photo. One for the Genoa halyard,one for the main halyard and a spinlock forward of the daggerboard cleat.
Jam cleat or spinlock,either way,it takes the stress off the line while cleating it.
Next item will be a 2:1 block to reduce the effort pulling the board up.

Any pics of the clutches? I'm getting ready to do mine, Spin triples, and have a couple of ideas. Perhaps you have a new location not considered?

Michael

Just want to be clear on my pic above, the daggerboard is the line on the left. The line with the powercleat on the right is for the mailsail halyard.

I was thinking about using a powercleat for the daggerboard.. but figured it would be a bit harder to pull up.

Paul

Just tried out my new hardware this weekend,and it worked great. No pictures right now(our digital is deceased!),but I mounted a spinlock for the genoa halyard in place of the cleat provided. I mounted a spinlock in place of the daggerboard cleat,and found that no additional cleat is needed. There isn't enough force on the daggerboard line to require a cleat. The spinlock for the main halyard is aft of the winch,over to the right hand corner of the raised winch area,and I used an 11o riser so the line would tail off the winch at the right angle.
I also just got some swivel cleats with bullseye leads,which mount on the 1" genoa tracks. Similar to Bill's E-Z Cleats? I saw these at the Garhauer booth at the Newport show last month,and ordered them direct . When the package arrived,I had bee billed and rec'd only one! A quick phone call,and an apology for the error-and they sent the second one FREE!
These swivel cleats are absolutely the coolest thing I have added to the boat. Single handed tacking is sooo easy now!