MacGregorSailors.com

Any need for tiedowns / strapdown on the boat while trailering? I don't see anything in the manual. I haven't had any issues, but was wondering if it were a good idea to strap down the rear of the boat to the trailer for long hauls or is that a completely unecessary step?

Thansk.

I think you'll find most people do it...

I use straps from the rear cleats down to the trailer.

Some people use one big strap from the trailer, up over the boat, and back down the other side...

In some states, tiedowns are a requirement by law. I just use a couple of dock lines from the bottom of the rear goal posts to the stern cleats, dont know if it does any good but should help to give the apeerance of being legal.

Tie one on the bow eye down to the trailer and ease off the winch rope a little. I have seen to many boats come off trailers in Florida on the bridges.

Tie down straps are not really needed with a boat as heavy as the M unless you are going long distances or ruff roads. Well, you are in Fl.

I use the anchor lines too. They're already on the cleats, so running them down to the trailer does that job and no need to carry (or forget!) more equipment.

(1) Tie down the nose to the trailer, and slightly loosen the trailer's strap. This prevents the boat's prow from bouncing up and down on freeway slabs and placing releated nasty stress on the boat's eyehook.

(2) Big yellow strap from Home Depot around the back of the boat, near the captain's wheel. Probably not necessary, but California law requires it.

(3) Use rigging ropes to tie the mast securely to the railings just on front of the winches, and use the winches to cinch them down. This prevents the mast from rocking back and forth while driving, stressing the pedestal.

(4) Bungee cord all the rigging cables nice and tight - don't want to snag anything.

(5) Don't forget to rest the outboard as low as possible, relieving bouncing on the arm.

We make the bunks slick to get the boat on and off easy. The shallow V shape tends to hold the boat on in the middle of the trailer. But when you hit a piece of debris in the road way at 60 going around a curve and it shreds the tire, then you are down on the rim and the shallow V is on it's side, almost horizontal while the heavy end of the boat is trying to bust out of the goal post and swing an arc around your tow vehicle.

My goal posts came from the Mac factory attached to a rear frame member that was only partialy welded to the rear cross member. After my first launch the factory weld cracked completely through. Have you checked yours lately? That rear goal post is not likely to retain your boat in an accident as above. It's designed only as a guide for launching and retreiving. Some other means like a tie down strap from the cleats or stanchions to the main frame rails seems highly desirable to help keep boat and trailer together in a worst case scenario.

I use and recommend ratcheting straps for each side of the rear of the boat. A single large heavy duty 3" cargo strap that truckers use would be adequate.

I chose the above example because up to 40% of reported road accidents are cause by debris in the road.

We also use a couple of dock lines. That way they are out and ready for launching. The ones we use are a bit bigger than most of our lines so should be stout enough.

Gemini,

I had asked the same question about a year ago, and received a reply from Kevin Clenmore recommending this to me: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=36605

I am very glad he told me about it, and without using the scary warnings he used, I recommend you look into it. It is extremely simple to use, and incredibly strong.

Ray

I tie down the bow to the trailer in case the winch strap breaks. I don't do anything on the rear but maybe I should. When the dealer delivered it he didn't have the rear tied down either. I've always assumed that the weight of the boat with the motor was enough.

I'd never tow without a rear tie down. Watch your mirrors, you'll be surprised how much bounce happens back there. In reality the mac is a very light boat on the trailer for it's size.

I use a single large strap at the back just forward of the rear cleats. At the bow, the trailer (bought the boat used) came with a chain and a bow eye clip around the ladder. It's not under tension like the winch line, but I think it's a very good safety measure if the rope breaks or things get crazy back there. With the chain clipped in the boat can't go far.

Have always used the 'big strap' approach. On smaller boats to stop demounting from the rollers; and on bigger ones to make sure that where the trailer goes, the boat goes.

I cleat my dockline on both cleats under the main trailer frame - for a longer trip (longer than 10 minutes) I also run a dockline down from the bow cleats to relieve stress on the bow eye.

I used to use ratcheting tie downs but pitched them for docklines - less stuff to carry and deal with.

Duane: Is that chain attached to the eye on the boat? The load's bouncing, particlarly on a freeway, where the slabs create a rythym, is a repeat stress that I would not want on the boat's fiberglass.

A small nylon strap at the nose, over ther anchorwell, completely eliminated the 2-inch bounce my boat would oscilllate to, unless I winched the trailer-retrieval strap hard.

It seems to me that - no matter what the weight of the trailer load - you do not want it bouncing or moving in relation to the trailer in any way whatsoever. Two Home Depot straps, little in front, big in back, take care of that easily.

Im glad I had my Mac X tied down when the starboard side wheel sheared all the lug nuts off, at 55 MPH. Watching that alum. wheel passing me up after the "loud thud" sound was not a good thing. The boat stayed secure, and no damage.
I think the boat couldve shifted if it wasnt tied down, considering all the bumpity bump bump !
Securing everything is always a good idea ! Tightening lug nuts correctly is also a good idea.