MacGregorSailors.com

I have a MacGregor located in Germany. I wish to sail the ship from the cockpit. This means having to install some kind of rollers to raise the main and to lower it.
I have a boom kicker. What is the best and/or least expensive way to sail the ship from the cockpit? Who can give me ideas or advice.
Thanks for any help.

Peter H. Otersen

This wonderful board lets you search and there are hundreds of existing discussions on do it yourself modifications in the section labeled "Modifications".
Simply press the "search" button and type a few words.
In the "modifications" section I found:

Lines led aft , for an example.

There are many possible solutions depending on what your boat may have and how it's used. Also, "best" and "least expensive" aren't often the same thing.

This is called "leading lines aft" or "lines led aft" to permit single-handed sailing from the cockpit.

You will first need to install nylon slugs on the mainsail's luff (forward edge) to ride in the track on the mast, instead of using the bolt rope, which causes too much friction. Even with the slugs, you may need to lubricate the mast track with a dry lubricant such as Sail-Kote.

You MAY also need a longer main halyard line, although some have reported the original one long enough to lead aft. This is polyester double-braid line.

Then you will need a block (pulley) at the mast base to turn the halyard from vertical to horizontal towards outboard, another block to turn the halyard from heading outboard to heading back toward the winch, and a rope clutch ahead of the winch for the halyard to run through.

The block at the mast base may be mounted on the mast, mounted on the deck, or attached to the pin that connects the mast to the tabernacle. Some also install a plate designed to attach blocks to under the tabernacle. The plate will have to be drilled to match the bolt holes in the tabernacle and in the deck.

Mast Base Plates

More Mast Base Plates


The block at the forward end of the starboard companionway track may be a cheek block stacked on the one used for the centerboard, but it is often a "deck organizer" which has more than one sheave (roller) to turn multiple lines back.

Main halyard aft with cheek block

Main halyard aft with deck organizer

Those other lines may include reefing lines from the sail tack and clew (double-line jiffy reefing) or a single-line reefing line, or a downhaul line from the head of the sail.

Examples of Mainsail Reefing

With other lines coming back from a deck organizer, you would need more than one rope clutch and you can get two or three of them assembled together. You would want the halyard to run through the starboard rope clutch, and have it lined up with the starboard side of the winch drum.

With more than just the halyard led aft to the cockpit, you would also need more blocks at the mast base. That's where the plate below the tabernacle comes in handy.


If you don't have roller furling on the foresail, you will need to do the same on the port side of the mast for the jib halyard.

You will also want to run a foresail downhaul line from the shackle on the jib halyard down to a block on the deck and aft to the cockpit to help pull the jib down. There's a version of this called the Gerr Downhaul that runs from the foresail head down the luff to the point of the perpendicular, out to through the clew, back to the same point on the luff, then down to the block on the deck, and aft. With the jib halyard tensioned, it lets you depower the foresail by gathering the clew up to the luff. With the jib halyard loosened, it pulls both the head and clew to the tack when you take the foresail down. The foresail downhaul line typically runs by the port side stanchions aft, like the furling line on a boat so equipped.

Although you might not need it with a Boomkicker, some run a topping lift from the aft end of the boom to a block at the top of the mast, then down to the mast base, out to a deck organizer or cheek block, and aft to the cockpit.

There are several examples of lines led aft in the Rigging Section of MacGregor Sailors Modification Pages

Hope this helps,

Can anyone recommend/tell me what blocks I should use when running lines aft on a 26m. I knolw I need one at the base of the mast and one on the side where the mast raising pole attaches. Any brand and model/type would be appreciated.

Brand is a chevy v. ford type question... In other words, use which ever brand you prefer or can get easy (for me "cheap") access too...

As for size, you probably want 40mm sheaves, at a minimum... But, the real question is what size line you will be using. Once you've determined that, then blocks are rated/sized according to the line...

I'd try to get low stretch line about the same size as what is on there now. You will need longer line, of course... I think I used ~100 each for the head sail and mainsail. That's a bit of overkill, but I looped it back, giving me downhauls and plently of slack on both lines...

So, before you order line, you'll need to decide whether you want downhauls on both... I probably isn't really needed on the main, especially if you use sail slugs/slides, but I'd recommend it on the head sail...

Ok, so now that you've decided what size and length line, you can turn back to the blocks.

For the main, you'll need a block at the mast base and a block at the stanchion base just starboard of the mast. If you decided on having a downhaul, both of these blocks need to be doubles (two sheaves).

For the headsail, you'll need another block at the mast base and a block at the stanchion just port of the mast. If you decided on having a downhaul, then you'll need another block at the forestay attachment, but only the block at the stanchion base needs to be a double... I also use a block at the rear port side pullpit stanchion base, in order to keep the downhaul out of the way...

I alraedy have sail slugs installed, I am asking for recommendations /model #'s of what blocks to use: ie; Harken,Shaffer,Lewmar etc.........I have the standard main halyard installed from the factory which I believe i long enough to go aft??????

Just remember the bigger the pully on the block the easier it will be to hual

keving

Halyards Led Aft "M" Model W/Rotating Spar
Halyards led aft from the M rotating mast (spar)
One swiveling block for each halyard with integral cam cleat mounted on the rotating mast. Mount this swiveling block with integral cleat on the rear side of the mast at a point where the swiveled cleat makes a fair lead when the spar is rotated on either tack, and draped back toward the cockpit and over the cabin hatch to be dropped in the cabin opening so it is out of the way and easily accessible just aft the sliding cabin hatch. The halyard can be tensioned and lifted up to release it from the cam cleat, then lowered and pulled back into the jaws of the cam cleat to secure the halyards from the distance between the cockpit to the spar.
This allows the spar (Mast) to rotate freely without being restricted with deck or mast base blocks that can increase the downward load or restrain the mast from rotating freely.



West Marine #377275 Harken #140 Pivoting Exit Block Line Dia. 3/8 Max. Sheave Size 1 (38mm) Ball Bearings

West Marine #545046 Ronstan#RF5Pivoting Base Block W/Cleat & Farlead Working Load 330lbs

In this thread, Main halyard aft - 26M, I and others posted a potential problem with the above example of leading the halyard only half-way aft, i.e. only to the mast base. There are examples of halyard led all the way aft from some M owners, who report no problem with it keeping the mast from rotating. I suggest you read that whole thread, especially if you're contemplating adding a dodger at a later date.

Yes, in the case where those adding the $2000 dodger, I suppose this would conflict with a proper lines led aft for an M rotating spar, but then again,
I did not see any reference to, or in fact there may be only a handful of those willing to sacrifice their view over the already high cabin house. I am probably wrong, but I dont see how anyone could install a dodger and sail without raising the boom and re-cutting the sail to provide clearance below the boom.

I had mine set up with mast attached cleat originally. Last year I changed it running the Main halyard through a block attached to a shackle which itself is attached to the mast base plate. Then it runs laterally to another block shackled simply to the base of the stanchion. Finally, the halyard runs aft through a power clutch mounted just forward of the winch. Initially I had this setup with just a ronstan power cleat. the system worked great but sometimes the cleat was inadequate, and very hard to release under load. this season I've upgraded to a power rope clutch.

Richard O'Brien
Truthfully I feel you may be justified in upgrading your M halyards to rope clutch. Reading your great sailing stories and knowing how you like enjoy your boat in heavy air as I. I examined Mike Inmans racing spar on a day when he had it down for service. His spar had clam cleats installed a few feet above the swiveling blocks, and Im sure he is using these to maintain his heavy air halyard tension. I wonder how your setup works for light to medium sailing without impairing the rotation of the spar.

I also noticed his halyard swiveling blocks were Ronstan, I checked and they have a higher SWL (Safe Working Load) rating, not bad for light weight composit. I beieve the SWL was 330lbs.

Richard can you tell me what blocks w/shackles you used make/model on your m for lines aft.....???????

Keving,

I think this will help you. I lead my main halyard aft, the easiest and most efficient way for someone who is not super handy (me.) I bought an Spinlock XPS power clutch, a Lewar swivel block with a u-shaped shackle at the end, and a Harken cheek block with a large steel D-shackle (separate piece of hardware.) You attach the Lewamar swivel block with the shackle, looping it through the hole on the starboard side where the mast raising post pin would go through. This block allows free mast rotation without any changes to halyard tension when it's set. Make sure you click the setting on the block which allows it to swivel, not locked. Directly to starboard of the swivel block, loop the large D-shackle around the base of the stanchion post. Make sure you get one that's big enough to go around it. Run the pin of the D-shackle through the attachment loop on the Check block. Now for the hardest part, though not too bad. On the cabin ceiling, remove the mirror next to the rear berth-starboard side. This will give you access to the bottom side of the deck. You will mount the rope clutch directly above this area, approximately 3 inches from the edge of the deck, starboard side, close to the edge of the flat area to the right of cabin top before it drops off and the cockpit opens up. Mark two places for holes where you will attach the rope clutch and drill through. Use 2 #10 machine screws with nuts and washers on the other side where you opened up the mirror. Before you insert the screws, fill the holes with a marine grade caulking or sealer and some around the holes. When you get everything tight, replace the mirror & Viola! I don't have exact model numbers for the blocks, but I can get pictures if you need them. The only disadvantage to this setup is it makes it difficult to winch you halyard since the rope clutch is parallel to the winch. My work-around solution is; once I hoist the sail all the way, I run the halyard back to the rear mooring cleat and back up to the winch. Works great. Good luck & happy sailing!

[quote="keving"]Richard can you tell me what blocks w/shackles you used make/model on your m for lines aft.....???????[/quote
Like TheyTheirs suggests, I used Ronstan, swivel blocks for 12 MM lines( about the same as the 7/16" halyard. They're a little cheaper than Harken/Lewmar. I got an Antal 12 MM V-stop rope stopper off of E-Bay for 35 bucks. My second choice was Ronstan power clutch. I don't think it matters too much. The trick is to attach a swivel to the mast base. I made a 3" x 1/1/2" flat metal attaching piece from a stainless steel hinge.
I fastened this to the mast raising bolt 3/8" x 4-1/2". It's very simple. The halyard runs down the mast until it enters the sheave, turns to starboard, and runs over to the stanchion, and thence aft through the power stopper. Now when I crank on the winch, it comes up tight. and stays there. The 30 vertical feet prevents any lateral mechanical advantage as the halyard winds around so It doesn't effect rotation at all. I need to add that I got this idea from somebody elses suggestions? Divecoz maybe, and others? Maybe they'll chime in?