MacGregorSailors.com

I am having problems backing up and using the lockout tab to stop the surge brakes from going on. It is the new (05) brake system and they supply a lockout tab which you place a slot to stop the piston from going in. The problem is the thing wants to fall out and you have to use tape or something to keep it in. This is a pain. Is there a better way or a trick someone has come up with? Does anyone know if there is an electronic lockout system wire in which would work off the truck backup lights? I have a 03 Ford F150 with the trailer package so there is the electrical connection there. I have the adapter from the truck to the 4 prong flat connection for the trailer. Thanks for any info or ideas.

I'm not sure about your mechanical lockout, since mine doesn't have one. Or, I guess I should say that I don't know what it is or how it works.

Instead, mine has an electronic lockout. My trailer uses a 5 wire plug, with the 5th wire being 'back-up' lights, which is actually used to energize a solenoid, which in turn locks out the brakes...

If it is a new trailer, then the dealer should have given you a 5 prong connection wire for it. You should call them and ask for it. All the new trailers from Macgregor have a 5 prong.

Even with the correct wire harness, you shouldn't leave the lights connected when you back into the water. What I normally do is leave the lights connected until the trailer starts down the ramp. Then stop, unplug the lights and continue on. The brakes only engage on level or slightly up-hill, so once backing down the ramp, they will roll free.

The lockout tab does always want to fall out, I have seen a few people that welded a loop over that goes from the lockout tab back over the top of the trailer tongue so it can't slip out.

Reversing solenoid.

I have it on my two axle disc brake conversion and well worth it, IMO. I also upgraded to the 7-way connector which plugs into the standard harness socket on many of the newer factory equipped tow vehicles.

Interesting additional point: my Expedition came with the 7-way socket which includes the wiring into the backup light circuit, but as delivered, only the three primary circuits (left, right, tail) are standard. The relay in the underhood relay block to make the backup circuit functional is absent and the circuit is "dead." You have to purchase and add the additional relay to make it functional.

Even with the correct wire harness, you shouldn't leave the lights connected when you back into the water.

Don't know why not. I've been doing it for five years without ill effect. The stock tailights are completely sealed units and it doesn't matter whether they're connected or not when you immerse them.

The side lights are another story. They are unsealed, worthless, corrode instantly on immersion and I haven't yet had both of them last more than one immersion, even if unlit. After replacing them three times in four years, I finally wised up and paid a few extra $$ for sealed LED units. So far through this season they seem to be holding up fine.

Duct tape my friend, Duct tape!

It is a PITA when the stop falls out and the breaks lock-up, the easiest solution is to just tape it! Since the brakes (on my 2004 at least) are hydrolic, there isn't a way to electronically lock them out.

Rich

there isn't a way to electronically lock them out.

Sure there is. See my post above.

Rich, if your 2004 factory trailer has disc brakes (yes, I think) then the brake actuator should have an electric lockout. You simply need to apply power to it from the backup lights.

Chip, The are not very well sealed units. I think that the manual even tells you to disconnect before backing into the water. If you don't you run the risk of shorting the entire system, not just the cheap lights on the trailer. You have been lucky and never had problems. I have seen others that have fried the electrical system and had to spend a lot of money fixing it. I always disconnect just to be safe.

Frank,

I will have to look more into this electronic locking out issue. I have never had it work (since new) and have always had power to it via the 5th wire. So if it can be done electronically, why do I have to use that stupid stop in the first place? Did Rodger put it there knowing that the electronic system was crap and I would need to do it manually?

I am out in Minnesota at the moment, but will look into this when I get home next week.

(yes I have disk brakes)

Rich

If you have trailer brakes on an M trailer, There should be an electronic lockout.

I can't imagine Macgregor having 2 styles. Our 04 (both of them actually) had a flat 5 harness installed, and a flat 5 tow vehicle harness included as well.

Wired it up to our trucks and it works great.

Ours came with a tab to shove into the trailer to prevent them from engaging. Never tried it. Don't even know where it is. I really should find it.

On the lights, I generally do not disconnect the wires. Sealed lights or not. On our old powerboat and the mac trailer..I have only replaced one sealed capsule light in 13 or so years trailering. I have replaced side lights only because they got smashed somehow.

Got to love the disc brakes on the M trailer. Locks up tight as a drum when they are engaged. You KNOW in a hurry if there is a problem with the backup light wire connection.

Paul

... but if the factory didn't include a reversing solenoid, I'd call them and see if they'll send it to you. If not, Chip gave the link to get one from Champion - $40.

I believe you're right about the manual; but it has a lot of bogus stuff in it, some of which I choose to ignore.

To a 12VDC lighting circuit, water, even salt water, is a pretty poor conductor. I have little worry about it shorting out the entire electrical system. If it were going to be a problem, it would be so anyway, since it certainly hasn't dried out much by the time you hook it back up at the top of the ramp. As I said, I've never unhooked mine and it's hard to argue with success, or in this case, lack of failure. Maybe if the consequences of failure were a little more dire...

OK, I admit I'm a little lazy as well.

Can't argue that the light units are fairly cheap, I think about $8 at Champion Trailers, but they seem quite well sealed to me; mine haven't leaked in perhaps 100 launch/retrievals in five years. I've noticed that probably 50% of Mac trailers I've seen over the years have one or both taillights broken. They're not intended to double as bumpers or collision alarms, and they don't seal if you keep backing into stuff and breaking them. Of course that's not you.

Finally burned out one of the integral side marker lights this year, and they can't be replaced separately so I'll go for a new sealed unit; Unless I see a problem I'll continue to not bother unhooking the lights, and if it lasts another five years before I have to replace it again, I'll be happy.

Our 05 came with the flat-5 wiring, and the electronic reversing lockout has worked flawlessly since May. The dealer who delivered it used the mechanical lockout tab because he only had a 4-wire harness on his tow vehicle.

Jetta01,
If the trailer wiring is set up properly on the tow vehicle, worse case scenario should only blow a fuse. The electrical system on the tow vehicle should not "fry".
Greg

If you have trailer brakes on an M trailer, There should be an electronic lockout.

I can't imagine Macgregor having 2 styles

When I bought my '03 M (hull 19, dealer demo I got at end of season), I was told that the earliest M's had a heavy-duty trailer, rated at 5000 pounds, 15" wheels. It does not have electric brake lock-out, and uses a large bolt slid through a sliding bar to lock out the system. I don't know how long that trailer was used.