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So I did get the new BWY heavy duty rudder brackets. Since I have to clean out the back of the boat so they can get to the cables and bolts to swap my engine, I decide to remove the old brackets and test fit the new ones. Of course it was hundred degrees out. Almost passed out even with my ryobi fan. Four of the eight bolts holding the lower fitting broke off on extraction. All the bolts on the inside linkage came off ok. I had to snap vice grips on the bolts and then go outside to undo them. Big PITA. The new brackets fit perfectly. Yay! I hand tightened everything for now, but I’m going to buy all new bolts for the linkages and some plastic washers. They were a tiny bit worn, my old brackets were bent of course, but the new ones, in conjunction with the different rudder pivots I put in a few years ago, should be ok. I decided not to re-use the lower keeper fittings. They are marginal for such an important job, so I figured it wasn’t a bad idea to get a couple new ones. They were only slightly worn, But bent-formed stainless plate says invisible cracks after 14 years in saltwater, to me.
The old brackets had a white haze on them from the zincs I put of the outboard bracket. They seemed sound underneath. Welds are not cracking or damaged. Not sure if they are worth selling?
Also: although my steering helm and cables have never given me any issues, and I’ve kept them lubed, should they replaced? They look fine.

Ix

Ixneigh wrote: ↑Thu Jul 10, 2025 6:13 pm Also: although my steering helm and cables have never given me any issues, and I’ve kept them lubed, should they replaced? They look fine.

Ix

Mine are original and I'm thinking of replacing the steering cables with BWY heavy duty cables.

Morbid curiosity ... is there a enhanced rudder and bracket for the early X models?

Just wondering in the new brackets are thicker than the old ones. And yes those 8 rudder bolts make me think I should get 4 vise grips instead of going up and down the ladder 8 times.

This season I was able to use the little I have learned in FreeCad and 3D printing to try to upgrade the brackets again. After 9 tries I had a file that should work. Sent the file to Send Cut Send and had a 1/2 stainless steel part made.



Welded


3D printed

End result

Could not put the bottom bolts in because the welded part was in the way (oops) so had to put it in from inside and the nuts are on the outside
Done some sailing and so far so good.

Replaced helm years ago but it was because it became harder to turn wheel.

The new brackets are thicker, but they are the “heavy duty” option. They still sell the original style.

However I feel I’ve solved the issue anyway by changing the way I deal with the rudder pivot pin. IE: stout compression sleeve in the rudder, with a half inch bolt through it. The rudder pivot on the sleeve, the bolt can be tightened home. Rudder pivots freely, bolt holds rudder brackets from spreading. The. End. The main reason I replaced the rudder hardware is, 14 years in saltwater, and a paranoia about bent plate stainless, welded stainless, and stainless where I can’t see it. The parts were comparatively cheap, available with three day shipping, and in stock.
After clean up, the old parts appear fine. I was able to eliminate the slight bent mine developed quite easily once it was off the boat. The lower gudgeons had next to no wear.
If anyone wants an extra pair, I’d trade them for a factory jib for the M

Ix

Congrats Ixneigh!
That’s a big job accomplished!

Hope you treated your self to a very deserved tall cold drink after being out there in the heat of day and crawling around your aft berth!

Best Regards
Over Easy

Thanks. This has been a year of fixing stuff. Doing a lot of repainting too. Found the last two quarts of Brightside light blue paint on the web, so I ordered that, new non skid, new access door in the liner under the galley, new motor, it’s def living up to its B.O.A.T. Acronym

Hi, I have a 2001 26x, that had the aluminum rudder holders and the old-style rudders, I found a set of the new stainless ones with the newer rudders, I notices the distance from the mounting hole to the pin is a couple inches longer, (7 inches vs 5) would it be safe to bend the connecting bar? is there anything else anyone can think of that will need to be changed? Thanks George