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While I have the galley in the workshop (hatch, pump and faucet install) I'm thinking to cut out and replace w/ stainless bar sink. Drop in sinks seem to eat up too much space. There are however a number of undermount sinks that would fit the bill. Wondering if I could glue the flange of an undermount so it would sit as a drop in. Anybody?

I highly recommend raising the entire countertop to normal height. I added 5”, it allowed bigger sink (I made coutertop over hang in front a few inches) and gave room for 2 drawers. It enabled the sink to fit in the front corner as much as possible. And is easier to grab on to while walking by, working at countertop (leaning against it while using both hands at countertop) I bought an IKEA sink (was kinds expensive) and a faucet (cold only). They had a nice sink for $29 (rounded corners).ikea bar Faucet simplifies install, we got an adjustable swivel spray attachment. Also there is a drain fitting for boats that adapts a normal house size drain to a 3/4” hose. Boat hose is 1”. I bought a foot of 3/4” spa hose, glues into 1” spa hose, stiff and shouldn’t kink. I have. 26x so some of this may be different for your 26m. I used Bamboo plywood crazy expensive, could use 1/2” birch about $50 sheet. Epoxy coating is working great, do it in a sealed area so flys don’t land on it while curing (damm it!)

Just dropping in an under mount sink should be fine, just cut hole exactly (make a template with 4 thin wood strips, I hot glued them, I used the strips they put between lumber, then throw away). Grind fiberglass to fit sink bends. May need to remove/ grind some metal connections under sink lip. Use marine adhesive to hold in place.

Sheppie62
I have to admire your skill in lofting the dimensions from boat to plywood. If you still have the dimensions I would like to try my hand at replicating your design. Maybe post in MODS? Thanks

My boat was at the harbor in a slip when I built this, so I had to keep checking as I progressed. The boat isn’t very straight so measurements wouldn’t really help, and you boat could be a little different. What I did was I cut 3 pieces of plywood (1/2” birch would be good if on a budget) 5” tall that sit on top of the existing galley on end. Drilled holes on the bottom edge about 1” deep sized to accept some stainless screws (about 1 every 8-12” as needed to hold new countertop to old galley (with the head cut off) , 6/32”. I didn’t put those in yet,(epoxy in later). Put in a sharp wood screw with the head cut off backwards about 1 1/2” long (so pointy end sticks out a bit). I then positioned the boards on top of the galley, pointy screw ends down to mark where the holes get drilled. Drill the holes in the galley top edge. Set up the 3 boards taped together. Get a bunch of stickers (the thin boards they put between the lumber to let it dry, they usually have them sitting on the ground or in a trash barrel should be free at any lumber yard/ Home Depot. Position the wood pieces on top of the 3 boards sitting on the galley. I used a hot glue gun to glue the pieces together to get the shape of the back wall, sides and front best I could doing straightest parts first, the used shorter pieces to fill in any bends. Brace that template at critical angle so it doesn’t change shape, strong enough to move/ flip over. Flip over the template and trace that onto a piece of press board, mdf, door skin, whatever you have or can get cheap. Cut shape and test fit it, if it’s off much, get another pieces and trace from the first piece making the the necessary corrections. Once your happy with shape, trace to your countertop material. The cardboard pieces (drywall shims) are for tracing the floor for carpet (same idea). Hope that helps! I am not an expert so if someone wants to chime in with ideas that would be great