MacGregorSailors.com

I've been reading on the forum about all the choices various people use. To say the least, there is no consensus on products and/or procedures that I can determine. Some are old-school, some are wipe-on, wipe-off. In my case, my boat has been sitting outside in the NC sun for about three years and actually started growing lichen on it. I've pressure washed it and gotten most of that off. What is left are lots of little nubs of lichen, tannin leaf stains as well as chalky gelcoat. I feel my only recourse involves lots of manual labor.

I next tried with products I had on-hand around the house on a bad area of about one sq-foot. I used a clean rag and some SoftScrub with Bleach. This got all the lichen and tannins cleaned off fairly easily. I was actually surprised. I then used some Meguiar's paste car wax. This seemed to work so-so. It looks ten times better than before, but not the wet-glass look. From what I used, I could probably do the entire boat with about $10.

I pretty much decided on getting a dual-action polisher that I can justify the learning curve on the boat before using it on my cars and started watching YTs. The unbiased ones are on cars. When it is on boats, its invariably someone plugging ten different products that will run several hundred dollars on top of the tools. I'm getting lost in all the jargon, different brands. hull, plugging Meguiar's in gets me at least 42 different hits of polish, glaze, wax, correction compound, buffing compound. Different pads (colors representing coarseness I'm guessing????) but every brand uses different colors schemes. Polishes - It seems like I might need one to get the worst cleaned-up (lichen and tannin) and then one to smooth it out... but then which polish goes on which pad becomes the next issue. After that, I then need another pad for applying wax... and then another to buff the wax. I'M TOTALLY LOST IN THE WEEDS!

Then I run across this product...

... that seemed to win many "Top-10 Reviews". But again being the Internet... a grain of salt is required. But it says its a one pass job... clean, remove chalk, polish and wax. But at $40 it damn well be a lot better than $4 SoftScrub.

I'm looking at the Bauer DA polisher and they have four pads: Blue: Foam Cutting Pad, Yellow: Foam Polishing Pad, Green: Foam Buffing Pad, White: Foam Finishing Pad.

I think my question starts with:
1) Is SoftScrub w/ bleach considered toward the course/cutting or fine/polishing end of the spectrum?
2) Which polishing pad should I use with SoftScrub?
3) Would the 3M or other product(s) be better?
4) Which polishing pad should I use with those product(s)?

The 3m product is rubbing compound and wax. Think shampoo and conditioner - two things that perform different functions that some marketing nut mixed together and sold as a timesaver. Plus, it has marine written on it to justify quadrupling the price.

I would go to an auto refinishing store and get polishing compound, rubbing compound, and wax as separate products. I have used foam pads on a right angle rotary machine and polishing compound with success on several different surfaces (including dull headlight lenses). Small areas, very light pressure, and take it easy. If it were my boat, I'd start with polishing compound to see if that would get it. If not, go to rubbing compound. Your gelcoat probably isn't real thick, so I'd tread as lightly as possible. I don't have a feel for how bad the surface contamination is, but you can wet sand with 800-1000 grit sandpaper if the polishing and rubbing compounds won't get it, then, polish from there.

Regarding which pad to use, I'd let the counter guy tell me when I buy them, but I doubt there's a noticeable difference when you're scrubbing mold off of a boat. I typically pick up the one that's closest to me on the garage shelf.

I've never seen any scientific analysis of the grit rating of soft scrub, but I'm guessing somewhere between polishing and rubbing compounds - probably closer to the polishing end since they say it won't scratch (and I don't recall having scratched anything when I've used it). Rubbing compound can get pretty aggressive.

If you decide to stick with soft scrub, I'd use a pad designed for polishing. If it cleaned well on your test area, why not? You can always follow up with a light polish and wax if necessary.

I have a less verbose response than Jimmy.
(A) Slimy Grimy powder to remove water born plant growth
(B).Wash the boat really well with Turtle Wax car wash
(C) Compound
(D) Finishing compound
(E) Wax. I just use liquid Turtle Wax in a jar. It’s cheap, extremely easy to apply and remove, and it works well. More time for sailing. Some use exotic types. There is no perfect choice when it comes to wax’s. Be happy. Go sailing.

https://www.prestaproducts.com/GEL_COAT-details.aspx

We use the Presta line of polishes at the shop I work at. I can highly recommend their Gel Coat compound. Works quickly on chalky gel and leaves a very nice shine.

Buff it up with this, will even get the black nice and glossy again. Protect with wax of your choice, done.

I started with all the marine compounds, i.e. from Star Brite, 3M, Meguiars etc. The best hands down is Presta cutting creme.
Originally was using a Porter Cable 7424XP random orbital polisher switched to Dewalt DWP849X 7in variable speed polisher cut my compounding and polishing time by at least 50%.
Best combo after years of testing.
Lake Country Cutting pad/Dewalt DWP849X/Presta cutting creme faster, not swirl marks,
I keep a spray bottle of water to fog the surface to maintain the slurry while buffing.
New Glass 2 4-6 coat bare gelcoat. semi annual clean, buff and polish with 3M 000 compound and reapply.
This winter I'm going all in on Glide coat professional. Expensive stuff. I'll report next season. Time will tell.

Wyliec wrote: ↑Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:46 pm https://www.prestaproducts.com/GEL_COAT-details.aspx

We use the Presta line of polishes at the shop I work at. I can highly recommend their Gel Coat compound. Works quickly on chalky gel and leaves a very nice shine.

Buff it up with this, will even get the black nice and glossy again. Protect with wax of your choice, done.

Should I be able to do the Mac with a quart or will it take a gallon?

My boat was not too bad below the rubrail, typical chalkiness above. To do from the waterline up, and the sides of the top and black stripe I used half a quart. I did not do the transom well or cockpit. You should be ok with a quart. Masking off the white when polishing the black is helpful, the black pigment tends to stain the white when polishing. I use an air polisher at work, an electric variable speed would be ideal at home. Orbital is not going to work. Using about 2 or 3 quarter sized dabs to polish about 2 square feet at a time and buff till almost dry. You don't want a ton of product on there, just clogs up the pad and slings it everywhere. You have the right amount of product when it stays wet enough for 3-4 passes and then starts to dissapear. Probably a lot of info, I should just do a video, lol!

Wyliec wrote: ↑Mon Oct 19, 2020 7:36 pm ... Probably a lot of info, ...

Actually, no. From my viewpoint, I've always been told its takes an expert to not get swirls (especially on black) so I've never tried it on my cars. Just seeing all the various products and claims and which to use on when and how seem from my viewpoint to be contradictory. Saying, use this one product to get it to a shine is reassuring. Tells me is a one step process... until I wax.

Many things I've read or youtubed says using the wool pad is very much a "learned skill". That the foam pads are far less likely to screw up by an amateur.

This videos is one that describes both of the above points. It talks about dozens of products and is totally worthless to me, but it also describes that the wool pads are harder to use for the unskilled. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFnmfn9mwYc

Thanks for your help.

I understand your concern about getting this right, but your going to own your Mac a long time (I hope), and simple is better than complicated when it comes to waxing your boat. There are enough complicated things to be concerned with.

At the end of my previous post I said some prefer the more exotic; you have now read example of what I meant. When I stated that, I was not making an attempt at dismissing the quality of all the different methods members use; I was saying, in my opinion, if a simple product like Turtle Wax works good enough, and that is fine by me. Going to all of the expense and time of using these products does not result in an appreciable difference. I will repeat that, there is no appreciable difference. I spent years refinishing furniture.

When it comes to the racoon stripe or stripes, depending on an or , I just broke down an painted mine with Benjamin Moore Impervex Latex high gloss enamel (black). It been a few years, (I've done this once in 15 years) I don't wax them at all because I fear slipping off the side if I step away from the grooved area .

Hopefully no one takes this personally, but I really think you should try this before going the other route. When it comes to taking this advise, there is the old 3 S.W. rule. Some will. Some Won't. So What. Go sailing. I guess that makes it the 3 S.W. G.S. rule.

NiceAft wrote: ↑Tue Oct 20, 2020 2:25 pm I understand your concern about getting this right, but your going to own your Mac a long time (I hope), and simple is better than complicated when it comes to waxing your boat. There are enough complicated things to be concerned with.

At the end of my previous post I said some prefer the more exotic; you have now read example of what I meant. When I stated that, I was not making an attempt at dismissing the quality of all the different methods members use; I was saying, in my opinion, if a simple product like Turtle Wax works good enough, and that is fine by me. Going to all of the expense and time of using these products does not result in an appreciable difference. I will repeat that, there is no appreciable difference. I spent years refinishing furniture.

When it comes to the racoon stripe or stripes, depending on an or , I just broke down an painted mine with Benjamin Moore Impervex Latex high gloss enamel (black). It been a few years, (I've done this once in 15 years) I don't wax them at all because I fear slipping off the side if I step away from the grooved area .

Hopefully no one takes this personally, but I really think you should try this before going the other route. When it comes to taking this advise, there is the old 3 S.W. rule. Some will. Some Won't. So What. Go sailing. I guess that makes it the 3 S.W. G.S. rule.

I agree completely. I'm not stressing (as much as I might sound like it) or trying to get the show car shine. I just know I'm not up to (patience or physically) hand doing the whole boat. I need mechanical advantage. I'm willing to get the decent dual-action polisher, but I am mainly concerned about my grinding it down to glass. I tried the cheap solution (Softscrub) by hand and it cleaned quite well of the growth. It seemed too abrasive and leaves shiny portions looking as chalky as the worse portions. Further research on other sites suggested that it equivalent to about 1500 grit. Also, soaps and Softscrub is not getting the tannin leaf stains out. Stains on the deck grip are next to impossible to get out even with aggressive brushing.

So for the polishing aspect (which is the biggest unknown for me) you suggested compound and finishing compound, but not specific products or methods. Wyliec and 1st Sail suggested the Presta brand of Gelcoat polish compound. One product instead of two. I've ordered it and hope I don't screw it up with the polisher. As far as the black portions, the test area seemed to come back pretty well with just the Softscrub and some Meguiars paste wax. I'm hoping the Presta and polisher will be somewhat better.

After that, I haven't decided on the wax. Turtle wax sound fine to me. I've used it and Meguiars on my cars in the past, and didn't have any strong opinions on shine or longevity. I've never used anything but wax. I'll look at the some of them, but it seems from this and other threads that there is no clear consensus. Some say wax and do it once every 6 months to a year. Others say the space age stuff will last longer, yet decenters say stripping is a PITA.

But I appreciate everyone's suggestions. Thank you.

P.S. I have to replace the boat numbers (new state residence) so, I'll have an as-new place to compare before and after.

For the leaf stains, look up a product called Slimy Grimy. I use the powdered form for algae growth.

NiceAft wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2020 6:16 am For the leaf stains, look up a product called Slimy Grimy. I use the powdered form for algae growth.

Slimy Grimy - ordered, on the way!

Saw you mentioned it earlier, just wasn't sure if you meant it would handle both the lichen and leaf tannins.
Thanks.

I was not sure about leaf tannin's. That's why I told you to look it up. Hopefully you did you due diligence.