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Hello all,

I am in the process of restoring a Venture 17 and have to replace the sealant between the deck and hull. The boat is currently sitting upside down on stands and I've removed the rails and what was left of the sealant. I have to keep a few screws in place to hold the hull in the proper position or it'll slide down further into the deck. I plan on using 5200. Question: Should I draw the joint together and leave about a 1/4" gap, add sealant, cure, and then snug? Or would it be ok to snug while the sealant is 'wet'? I'm concerned about sealant sag into the boat (being upside down it'll flow into the cabin) and being able to hold the hull in the correct alignment to the deck. My other thought was to get flat head screws and install them to hold everything together leaving them in place under the rail. Otherwise, if I don't use flat heads spaced between the existing holes, then I have to remove them to install the rail.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Anyone? Just stop in and say hello

Is there enough room " below" the sealant to install a closed cell foam backer rod, to stop the sealant from sagging?
I think I'd apply the sealant and snug the screws while the sealant is wet, then tool the sealant when it squeezes out. Painter's tape should keep surrounding areas looking good. You may need another person or two to come through behind you to snug screws and tool the sealant before it skins over.

Disclaimer: I have a 26d and am not familiar with the 17. I do have extensive experience working with sealants and caulking.

Thanks for the reply. I've been away for a week, hence the delay.

Yes, I can get at the inside of the joint and there's room to insert foam backer. The bunk area under the cockpit will be a challenge but doable.

I did something like this on my 26S, but the joint may be different... mine was a flat flange-to-flange connection, so it was “easy”. Sounds like yours is an overlap type, thus the risk of sagging and having to keep things screwed together. It also sounds like your rail screws into place, which is different than mine was. I used butyl tape instead of 5200...

A pic or two would be great, and interesting to see too! Sounds to me like you have the right idea, a backer rod or something else to fill the hole (piece of old rope?), tape to protect sensitive areas of the hull or cabin from drips, and maybe watch a couple videos about 5200 to see if they make any comments about whether it should be squeezed while fresh or allowed to set some before tightening things up.

Let us know what you decide and how it turns out!

Yes, it's a lap joint. The rail is attached with the same screws that bolt the deck to hull. Once I figure out how to attach a picture (I'm on my iPad), I'll put one or two up.