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I'm a new owner of a 1992 26s. The boat seems to be in really good condition for the price I paid ($3,900). Part of my brain says this is too good to be true. The negatives are it takes on rainwater and the bilge stinks. I've sat in it during the rain and have an idea of some leak points from hardware that needs new bedding. So far so good. Today I found a new surprise. I noticed there is a crack at the base of the cabin ladder, and a crack across the two storage bins underneath the aft berth (also close to ladder). The location is very puzzling to me. I'm wondering if it would be from centerboard damage, and if the ballast tank could be damaged (mounting location seems connected to tank). Ultimately I guess I'll need to get her on the water and see - but wanted to know if anyone has seen damage in this area before? This is my first time using the forum, I will post pics as soon as I figure out how.
Thanks,
Bill

My dad has a 92 26S. I can tell you this at least. The centerboard even if badly damaged wouldn't cause cracking that far back. Even a hard grounding would likely cause no damage since on the 1992 S the centerboard is a swing keel which swings up when you run aground. Once you post pics I'll go look at Dad's boat & see if he has any cracks in that area. They could be just surface gel coat cracks & nothing too serious.

Cracks around the ladder area sound like they could be just the gelcoat moving and nothing serious as long as there are no soft spots around them.

Its normal for boats to get water in from deck fittings and windows that leak, so many holes and it only takes one to fail, I have been going around resealing all my deck fittings on the X, its much drier than it was but still have a couple of little leaks after heavy rain, the positive is I got the really bad one on the starboard cabin hatch rail, now I have a lesser one on the port cabin hatch rail to reseal but that one is easier to get too.

https://goo.gl/photos/e8FzZRFNyKf2z3mM8

Let's see if this works for the photos. Bill

Cracks around the ladder area sound like they could be just the gelcoat moving and nothing serious as long as there are no soft spots around them.

By no means an expert on this, but after successfully completing several major fiberglass repairs on my Mac and my fiberglass dinghy, those cracks pictured don't look that serious to me. I tend to agree with saiboatmike, if that is all there is.

Thanks for the input. I'll continue to address the leaks and get it in the water!

I have a 94S that takes in rainwater. But fortunately it is clean, so no odor or growth (as long as I keep it bailed out).

I suspect I have leaky fittings too. Does one have to remove the hardware (stanchions, cleats, etc) and refit them, or can I just put a thin line of 5200 around each to seal them?

--john

That depends on if you want to do the job properly or just a quick fix that may work.

I would remove them, use a counter sink to take the sharp edges off the holes (sharp edges in gelcoat is the position cracks start) and rebed them, takes a bit longer but fixes the problem once and for all.

You can use butyl tape to seal them, its cheap and never actually sets so wont crack or break apart so its isnt susceptible to vibration and movement like other sealants that set.

sailboatmike wrote:That depends on if you want to do the job properly or just a quick fix that may work.

I would remove them, use a counter sink to take the sharp edges off the holes (sharp edges in gelcoat is the position cracks start) and rebed them, takes a bit longer but fixes the problem once and for all.

You can use butyl tape to seal them, its cheap and never actually sets so wont crack or break apart so its isnt susceptible to vibration and movement like other sealants that set.

Well, shucks, I was just about to suggest some silicone sealant around the edges of fittings like I do, but be prepared to redo that each year as it does deteriorate slowly over time, then sailboatmike reminds us that "a job worth doing is worth doing right" So I will not try to lead you down the easy path; better to "take the road less travelled"...

Some days the "Path Less Traveled" is less travelled for a good reason It can be a rock goat track full of potholes.

I must say its was hard work doing the starboard hatch rail on the X as it had cleat support bolts through it in various places (Damn that PO), but when I check it after rain and the table cut out wasnt full of water as it used to be it was very satisfying .

When the rain clears up I will do the port hatch rail, no cleats through that one so it should be easier, gee its hard just to get extra long SAE size sockets here in Australia just to undo the nuts, ended up shelling out $70 for a complete set of 10 extra long sockets and a socket wrench

The cracks n the picture are in the inner hull liner, which is a separate part from the hull itself. That hull liner is thin, and not well supported in some areas. My 26D has far worse cracks in the hull liner back there. when I bought the boat there was a severe hole punched through it in the aft compartment. upon inspection an old spare fitting that must have been stored under the seats migrated back there between the hull and the liner, and when weight was applies, as in a person sitting back there, it punched through. I saw how thin it was and then had to use a dremel to cut out the liner to get the old piece of junk out. No damage to the hull itself, just that thin liner. I glassed over the hole in the liner just to seal it back up.
A for rain, I discovered most of the deck fittings sealant was gone and rebedded almost everything.

Hi Bill,

+1 on Mike's comments. I have a 26S with small cracks at base of the ladder. This is the second summer I have owned it & keep it in a slip. Of all the things that need to be done to get a boat ready to sail, those are really low on my list.

Mine takes on rainwater too and one fitting at a time, I'm slowing the amount that I get. I sponge out the rainwater after each rain and have an odor absorber in the bilge.

I'm in Southeast MI. PM me if you are nearby.

Andy

Herschel wrote:then sailboatmike reminds us that "a job worth doing is worth doing right"

Oh, the guilt.

--john

sailboatmike wrote:When the rain clears up I will do the port hatch rail, no cleats through that one so it should be easier, gee its hard just to get extra long SAE size sockets here in Australia just to undo the nuts, ended up shelling out $70 for a complete set of 10 extra long sockets and a socket wrench

You guys need to open a Harbor Freight store in Oz.

paul I wrote:

sailboatmike wrote:When the rain clears up I will do the port hatch rail, no cleats through that one so it should be easier, gee its hard just to get extra long SAE size sockets here in Australia just to undo the nuts, ended up shelling out $70 for a complete set of 10 extra long sockets and a socket wrench

You guys need to open a Harbor Freight store in Oz.

Harbor Freight sells a 10 piece set of deep SAE sockets for $12. Doesn't come with a ratchet

Jeff