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Does anyone know how to replace the line that lowers and raises the centerboard for a MacGregor 26 X? The boat is currently in the water.
Thanks

Have done it before on an S model probably similar. Buy extra line, let the CB down, put the line down the tube to the CB, Jump in, swim undernethe the boat and fish it thru the CB and pull it out the the side of the boat, Tie a knot in it (Whatever stopper knot you like) I like the oystermans stopper not fot stuff like this, Get back in the boat and bring the CB up, Cut line to your desired length, Drink a Beer! (I prefer a stout of 9%+)

It's pretty simple if your on the trailer. There is a nut at the front of the center board trunk you access through the storage locker. Back the nut off until it is at the top of the threads and give it a rap with a hammer to drop it down. Place something on the ground under the board to support it and then finish removing the nut. The trailer should support the back of the board allowing you to slide the whole assembly forward and out from underneath. I ordered a replacement line from BWY because the older models have a combination braided line/wire cable setup. The newer models use all braided. Feed the line down through the cabin top and attach to the board. Put a liberal amount of sealant (NOT SILICONE) such as Dolphinite, Bed-it Tape or similar on top of the board's bracket and re-assymble. Should only take an hour or so.

Fair Winds,
Capt. Azzarac
Chameleon
Follow Chameleon's travels at: http://svchameleon.weebly.com/

I want to do this as well. I don't think it will work very well on my aftermarket trailer: too many stiffeners running across the frame. My plan was to do it on the water, similar to what was already posted. I was thinking that I would attach the new line to the bitter end of the old one while high and dry in the cockpit, uncleat the CB and lower it, then dive down and grab the old stopper knot and bring it up. Then pull the old line down through the hole with the new line following it down. Once I have new line coming up from underwater, I would detach it from the old line and tie an exact replica of the existing stopper knot (anyone know what it is?). Haul the new line back into the cockpit and voila.

Just wondering how to attach the new and old lines? Duct tape?

I believe I just used a figure 8 stopper knot. The hole isn't much bigger than the 5/16" CB line.

Oh, and I normally use either electrical tape for temp splices that have to be threaded, or even a few stitches with course sailmaker's thread.

Tomfoolery wrote:I believe I just used a figure 8 stopper knot. The hole isn't much bigger than the 5/16" CB line.

Oh, and I normally use either electrical tape for temp splices that have to be threaded, or even a few stitches with course sailmaker's thread.

I'd be careful using a figure-8 knot with 5/8' line. A knot that is too large or has too long a bitter-end tail may get wedged when you raise the centreboard into the trunk

The best solution for a stuck centreboard in the trunk is a foldable tent-pole. I keep a 6' pole (collapsed) onboard for this reason. Just unfold it and insert down the compression post from the deck (behind the mast) and push the Center board down and out with the tent-poll.

Does anyone have any recommendations about what type of line to use?

I get the feeling that a break in this line at high speed might be one of the most dangerous things that can happen to an X. Especially at 24mph. I have had the board down by accident a couple of times when powering up, and you very quickly realize that things are not as they should be.

I believe 5/16 in. yacht braid is the current spec, 17 ft. long to reach the cabin roof cam cleat. Older boats used wire rope spliced to line, but BWY sells line-only replacements, including as 'upgrades' for the older boats.

There really isn't much load on that line; I pull the CB up all the way with one hand. What's that? 50 lb? 5/16 in. Sta-Set polyester has a 3800 lb breaking strength. It may wear down at the CB, but the one I took off had been around a while, and showed no signs of wear even there.