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I've searched and seen discussion on corrosion and broken spreaders but... does anyone have ideas on how to remove the spreaders? I bought the boat used with one spreader that sheared off at the stainless steel holder on the mast (previous owner gave me 2 new aluminum replacement spreaders). The aluminum spreader that's left in there is corroded stuck, no lip that I can pull on since it sheared off in there. And due to corrosion I also can't get the 2 screws out of the end caps either to get it off the shroud, they're just too tight with corrosion; I've put some penetrating lubricant in there but no good - the screw heads are just going to strip.

So you all talk about the corroded aluminum pipe, but not HOW to get it out. Anyone have ideas? For both the tube that's stunk inside the SS sleeve and the end cap screws? Thanks

I have not experienced that problem before but my suggestion would be to use a dremel to sheer the end cap screws off. as far as the sleave, the aluminum tube is much softer than the stainless so again a dremel worked carefully with a bit to carefully remove the aluminum could work. Alternatively a 7/8 bit might be able to drill out the aluminum pipe without damaging the stainless sleeve.

You could apply a gas wrench (oxy/acytl). The aluminum will melt and run out of the stainless. Alternatively, take a hacksaw blade and cut the aluminium tubing inside the stainless fitting, longitudinally. Then, using a small chisel, start to peel the tubing and finish with needle nose pliers.

~Rich

That's pretty soft aluminium, so I would start with a hacksaw blade, in a holder if you have one, and cut a couple of slots (near each other) from inside the tube. You won't do any real damage to the SS socket other than scratching it a little (but you can't see the scratches inside the socket, anyway), and with an old screwdriver, you should be able to get it to bend enough to generate a little space. Use the screw driver like a splitting wedge on the narrow strip between the saw cuts. Once you get it going, it shouldn't be too hard to get the tube out.

And ditto the others again on the Dremel for the screw heads on the spreader caps. Just mill or grind them out until the end cap pops off.

Follow the instructions in the manual for setting up the new spreaders as far as distance along the top shrouds to the terminations. Don't assume the PO had it set up correctly.

There is a hand tool available at most auto parts stores , I can't think of its name but..... it has a handle like a screw driver , a shaft about 4-5 inches long with a semi sharp hook on the end. I have used this tool a few times on stuck stuff in stuff....but not with a lot of corrosion Also....after You get the stubs out and are ready to install the new spreader bars... think about getting wooden dowels from lowes/home depot that You can drive into the tubes that will beef them up a bit Good luck. Ron. Dauntless.

All good ideas. Ive tried the hooked tool pulling on the lip inside but corrosion has it too jammed in to work. Just kepr slipping off and never produced something I could grab on to. Next I'll probably use the kacksaw cuts as suggested.

I wonder if I soak it in a bucket of coca cola first it'll remove some of that corrosion and make it easier to separate? It works on battery corrosion.

I would bet you don't even need to cut it, and that you could drive a scratch awl or similar long, thin tapered probe in between the aluminium and the stainless. Use some judgement as to when enough is enough, but that aluminium is much softer than the SS, and should bend relatively easily, depending on wall thickness (BWY site says it's 1/8" wall, but mine were around .080" wall). If it doesn't fold inward easily, apply the saw blade. A few minutes' effort should be all it takes to make a weak strip that will bend inward easily.

Ok I'm going to try that. Do you think the coke will help?

tbowers wrote:Do you think the coke will help?

The coke will help if you mix it with rum whilst doing the job

Excatman wrote:

tbowers wrote:Do you think the coke will help?

The coke will help if you mix it with rum whilst doing the job

I would use mouse milk or kroil. Yes mouse milk is the real name.

http://www.mousemilk.com

I didn't think a Texan would ever admit to using something called mouse milk Kind of like admitting to eating lamb.

And it is real (sounds like Kroil) http://www.mousemilk.com/

tbowers wrote:All good ideas. Ive tried the hooked tool pulling on the lip inside but corrosion has it too jammed in to work. Just kepr slipping off and never produced something I could grab on to. Next I'll probably use the kacksaw cuts as suggested.

I wonder if I soak it in a bucket of coca cola first it'll remove some of that corrosion and make it easier to separate? It works on battery corrosion.

Why not try WD40 or some similar penetrating oil? (or have you tried that)

Naval Jelly

But I've done this with the "Scratch All" method mentioned above.

Wood dowel inside the spreader also works well.

Don't know about the M but I have shortened the spreaders on both X and D boats, by the amount that fits inside the spreader sockets, with good results. This make it easier to get them past the lifelines when raising/lowering the mast and, I believe, makes them just slightly more rigid and helps attain better adjustment on the upper shrouds.

SK

WD 40 was first thing i tried. Then a penetrating oil - dripped it on then tried to loosen after about 30 minutes absolutely no movement. Didn't try to submerge it for hours though

But if you shorten the spreaders don't you have to get new shrouds? The length of the shrouds is engineered; don't you have to get them just the right length for proper mast support?

RobertB wrote:I didn't think a Texan would ever admit to using something called mouse milk Kind of like admitting to eating lamb.

And it is real (sounds like Kroil) http://www.mousemilk.com/

Oh I love lamb!!!!