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I'm having trouble when the wind is strong and I have my main reefed and the genoa furled. I'm guessing I have about 30-40% of the genoa out. I lose so much speed during the tack, I can't finish the tack, I go into more of hove to position.. I've had the best luck doing a 270 degree turn rather than a 90. Anyone else have this trouble?

I was experiencing similar handling characteristics when I was getting used to my
Taking advice from the boards here, I found that I was:
Over-steering to try and make the turn quickly, anything more than about a 1/3 turn of the wheel during a tack stalled the rudders and slowed the boat too much. *This was my major failing* too much rudder and those boards would act like a sea-anchor bringing me to a dead stop.
I would also beat too close into the wind prior to a tack. I'd be going slower than if I'd ease off a bit and make a more sweeping turn.
Some of it seems a bit counter-intuitive, but give it a shot and see how you do.

Also, before releasing your genoa sheet, let the genoa fill with some air, then release the now windward sheet and pull on the now leeward sheet.

Ray

NiceAft wrote:Also, before releasing your genoa sheet, let the genoa fill with some air, then release the now windward sheet and pull on the now leeward sheet.

Ray

Mmm Staysil sheets , Spinnaker sheets, Drifter sheets , Genoa sheets , Jib sheets , Storm Jib sheets . Ray what sheets should I start first U think ! the Staysil is the only one thats not on its own deadicated furler yet so it would the hardest to tack
decissions

J

That makes you FIVE SHEETS TO THE WIND John Stay away from the Monkey Shoulders

Ray

NiceAft wrote:That makes you FIVE SHEETS TO THE WIND John Stay away from the Monkey Shoulders

Ray

Ahem Ray u's need one more shot of Malt Scotch THATS 6 SHEETS TO THE WIND but 5 on furlers

J

I might be inclined to try furling the headsail completely, then tacking, and letting it out again.
Don't forget lowering the centerboard and it's possible your main is getting old or not set correctly. A new main helped my boat a bit, as did keeping her a bit bow heavy.
Ix

Ususally when on a beat, your boat speed is less than it would be if you were more on a beam reach

Try falling off a bit first to gain some more speed

Then make your tack trying not to use too much rudder to avoid braking

Be smoooooth

Tacking is an art on a mac



G

To tack, use all the suggestions above e.g. keep speed up, don"t stall the rudders, set CB position to balance the sail plan, llet the headsail backwind, etc.
If despite that, you become locked in stays, let the boat stop head to wind and start backing. Given some boat speed in reverse, steer to put the bow toward the desired new course. As the boat stops, sheet in and steer to go forward on the desired new course.Hard to describe ell, but it does work.
Ron

ronacarme wrote:Given some boat speed in reverse, steer to put the bow toward the desired new course. As the boat stops, sheet in and steer to go forward on the desired new course.Hard to describe ell, but it does work.
Ron

I think this is simply called "pulling a James Bond".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzgGdYMcYC4

NiceAft wrote:Also, before releasing your genoa sheet, let the genoa fill with some air, then release the now windward sheet and pull on the now leeward sheet.

Ray

That's what I do, and it works fine for me.

I agree with Ray's comment to backwind the headsail, helps push the boat through irons.

But if you hold on too long, you will stall the tack. It's easy to see when to let go - watch the bow's movement against something in the distance, when the bows movement starts to slow, release the back winding sheet.

Also, you mention “strong winds” and doing a 270 degree turn (gybe).
A Gybe is the most dangerous maneuver in high winds because of; the active boom; and risk of broach. So, avoid gybing whenever possible, tack instead.

* A “Figure-8” Crew Overboard maneuver is specifically designed to use only tacks and no gybes for this same reason.
http://www.sailingcourse.com/keelboat/i ... turn-5.gif

by NiceAft » Thu Jun 05, 2014 2:38 pm

Also, before releasing your genoa sheet, let the genoa fill with some air, then release the now windward sheet and pull on the now leeward sheet.

Ray

As said above, once the bow passes thru the eye of the wind, let the jib back wind for a second or less, then slowly harden up the new leeward sheet. Once the new tack is established, harden the sheet for wind conditions.

If you harden up too fast the jib will be too flat to power the boat thru the tack. I slowly start turning the wheel back to neutral as soon as the bow passes the old tack. The X likes a soft slow hand at the helm

Bob

I also backwind to complete my tack. I tell my crew to keep an eye on the main sail to know when to release the forsail. When the mainsail starts to fill and get power back on the boat, that is when to release the backwinded forsail and reset it to lee side.

I've got the "slow" part down pat.

bscott wrote:As said above, once the bow passes thru the eye of the wind, let the jib back wind for a second or less, then slowly harden up the new leeward sheet. Once the new tack is established, harden the sheet for wind conditions.

If you harden up too fast the jib will be too flat to power the boat thru the tack. I slowly start turning the wheel back to neutral as soon as the bow passes the old tack. The X likes a soft slow hand at the helm

Bob