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Was wondering what to use to attach the CDI Furler to the top mast hound? MY oringally came with a 1/4" bolt and a squash nut (with the jib halyard block squished in the same mount) but reading up on the CDI manual, it states to use a toggle. Should I continue using the 1/4" bolt and if so - which grade bolt?

any advice would be appreciated and also pictres

Mike

With the CDI furler, you don't need the jib halyard, unless you're using it to raise the mast, though you may be able to use another line. I just got rid of mine, in fact, and will use the spinnaker halyard for that.

I use a bolt with nylon-insert locknut, which was standard equipment. There can be a large spreading force on that connection, and I won't trust a pin and ringding (well, don't trust the ringding), and certainly not anything that's quick release in nature. I don't much care for the large bolt span with forestay load anywhere along it (middle is the worst), but I've never noticed any bending of that SS bolt, so it's not something I lose sleep over. But as connections go, it's a pretty poor detail.

Oh, yeah - the toggle. Most riggers recommend using a toggle at the top and bottom. The existing bolt allows rotation around its own axis, but if the hound is clamped tight to the thimble, not side to side. That's what the toggle allows. I just leave some space between the hound halves, and the rounded contact surface allows it to 'roll' side to side. With no halyard sheave block in there, there's some extra room. But it's not a great detail, and I really should have a toggle up there, too. I just replaced the fore stay, having found a few broken wires right at the crimp fitting, and that was probably caused by the side-to-side flex and lack of toggle. Gotta get on that one of these days.

I also use the stock bolt and nut but kept both spinnaker and jib halyards on the hound. I use one for the MRS and the other for my Genoa sock.

Thanks for the information....

One day I maybe able to offer some advice of my own rather than always looking for it!!

Excuse my ignorance but is the mast hound the connection on where the forestay connects to the bow? Finally got my mast raised and I have about a three inch gap between the end of the CDI and the connector at the bow, It seems I should have some means of adjusting tension at this point. I ordered the loos gauge to adjust the inner and outer stays and will start there. If someone could provide a picture or other info (diagram) it would be greatly appreciated,
Ty

Start with disconnecting or slackening the backstay. It's impossible to make that connection with the backstay connected at operating length. And use the mast raising system (MRS) to put enough tension on the shrouds to make that forestay connection, too, then when you slacken the MRS, adjust the shrouds to where they should be. That's all assuming the mast has the correct amount of rake, which is in the manual.

Another thing you may want to check is if the PO had a Johnson Lever installed. 3" is about the distance I raised my mast hound when I installed mine.

2ndWind wrote:Excuse my ignorance but is the mast hound the connection on where the forestay connects to the bow? Finally got my mast raised and I have about a three inch gap between the end of the CDI and the connector at the bow, It seems I should have some means of adjusting tension at this point. I ordered the loos gauge to adjust the inner and outer stays and will start there. If someone could provide a picture or other info (diagram) it would be greatly appreciated,
Ty

I had the same problem. First you have to make sure that the connections of all the stays, and the CDI furler, are proper up at the top of the mast. They have a habit of twisting as the mast goes up and the little loop that attaches the stays to the mast always gets wound around the connections up there. A little shake of the stays as the mast goes up can straighten them out. Even when the stays weren't twisted up top, my furler seemed to be about 2" short. On a warm day it was a bit less and I was in the habit of enlisting anyone nearby to help pull, until I started using the trailer winch and a loop around the furler drum. That worked but I was always a bit worried about the furler being too tight. Then, on my last sail last season I ended up having to raise the mast on the water without the winch or standers-by to help, so at that point I just gave up and loosened the backstay and the sidestays one notch each. Still have to pull but at least it's a one man job. Not sure what it did to my mast rake but I had a fine sail that day. I will probably leave them as they are now.

Thanks much I was concerned about using the trailer winch and over cranking but I feel more comfortable in doing so. Now all I need is some warm weather. Thanks much to all your help