Charging batteries while underway with an E-Tec

[WASP18]

launched August 1st with two new AGM batteries purchased last summer from "Cabella's". Batteries were stored in basement at room temperature over winter and charged in May 2013. I then recharged both in July. I slow-charge using two amps. Understand it's better for the batterys' life.

I've been running on #1 battery since launch and for at least four operating hours with my E-tech 50 HP. Yesterday, I tried to start with #2 battery and it could hardly turn the engine over. I then started with #1, ran 45 minutes to replenish start power and then switched to #2 for 45 minutes. All are running at 2,000 rpm. At mooring, when we finished cruising, raised the motor with #1 battery and left for home. Today, I started motor with #1, ran for 45 minutes to replenish starting power and switched to #2 again to charge it. Ran on #2 for an hour and 15 minutes and when finished cruising, I did a test start on #2. It was better but not lively. My volt meter showed 13.00. It looks like the next time I'll be starting and using #2 battery.

Has anyone had the experience of running on both or "All" ? It had been suggested that I switch back and forth and not use the "All" setting.

Also, should I remove the batteries during the winter?

[March]

The E-TEC should start at the toouch of a key, if the battery is in good condition. 13.00 V sounds plenty, but the amps are just as important. I had a similar problem that turned out to be a faulty starter, but since you could start the engine on battery #1, it looks like your starter works well. Make sure all your connections are clean to #2 battery. It is also possible that the 2nd battery is developing a bad cell. I lost an Optima that way a couple of years back--barely out of warranty which is way too short, even so.

Your engine's alternator should be giving you plenty of juice, even at idle. Running it for an hour at 2000 RPM should be enougfh to top your #2 battery.

You can use ALL to start your engine, if need be. Not sure that keeping it on ALL is a good idea though. If battery #2 is still struggling after a one-hour run, there's something wrong with it.

Removing the batteries in winter is not necessary if you have a constant trickle charge

[seahouse]

If it is in fact 13V, that is a high voltage for a 12V battery, so it's likely a surface charge that will drop to a more representative level in a few hours after charging stops. Read it then.

You are better off charging each battery individually the way you have been – the charger will taylor the charge cycle to the average of the 6 cells that make up your 12V battery. If you charge both together, the charger will taylor the charge cycle to the average of the 12 cells that make up the two batteries together. That average is more likely to be wrong for one or the other batteries, decreasing the service life of one or both.

All chemical reactions happen at a slower rate at lower temperatures. Battery life decreases at elevated temperature, so if you store your batteries in an unheated area, their storage life will be increased. But they must be kept charged- it's not good to leave batteries sit for months. Also a discharged battery is more at risk of freezing, then it's toast.

If one of your batteries happens to be low or dead, and the other one is good, start the motor with the switch set to the good battery only, as you have done. Switching to “both” will not help in this situation and results in a lower voltage to the starter. Contrary to popular opinion.

I alternate between “one” and “two” on alternating days out which is a best practice for battery handling in this situation. Some posters here have suggested setting the switch to “one” on odd calendar days, and “two” on even calendar days. That sounds like another good practical scheme to me.

- Brian.

[WASP18]

Thanks to both of you. I keep a logbook to record our cruises and battery use. My experience with voltmeters and 12 volt batteries (two automobiles) when measuring the batteries' condition has been 12.5 - 12.9 at rest and 13.6 - 14.3 when running. These numbers fall in line with what I've read including the owner's manual that came with my car meter.

Realizing that amps are what counts for starting power, the voltmeter at least gives me an indication of voltage level. Sort of like a thermometer stuck under a tongue for body temperature. I'll keep an eye on #2 and let you know the results. The alternator power that comes with the E-Tec was one of the many features that sold me on the motor.

Also, my experience with gas consumption has been in-line with the advertised Evinrude figures. We're burning about .5 to .6 gallons-per-hour at 1,800 - 2,000 rpm. The motor is a quiet hum as we trudge along at 5 - 6 mph.

[1st Sail]

get a battery maintainer/charger and keep it connected to your batteries while in storage. Just switch between batteries every 2wks to 30days when not in use. I'm on year 6 with my Optimas. Nearing the end of their life cycle maybe but they have always been connect to a charger maintainer in the off season. You can get some long life even when stored if you do not allow them to discharge over the winter. Never discharge a battery completely, and never store uncharged. There are a lot of articles about the irreversible effect of long term storage of discharged battery.

[1st Sail]

March,
Do you sail the Iowa Great Lakes. I sail Saylorville, Red Rock, and Rathbun several times a year. Sorry back to batteries.

[Blowboater1]

Your. thoughts of switching from # 1 to # 2 batteries are correct. However your AGM's are not getting a full charge especially if they are deep cycle. You must put twice the amount of AMPs used to stay even. Example a 50 amp charger will only give you approximately 25 amps of recharge in 1 Hr. My suggestion is to charge up the batteries with a charger designed for AGMs prior to usage. Lots of info on battery maintenance just do your research.
Be Blessed
Ed