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My mecanic made this nifty surge break control tool yesterday.

Q1

That is nifty.

When I tried to put the "key" in the slot it fell right out. Ended up duct taping it to hold in place. That gizmo would work much better.

The standard couplings are a mongrel set up and technically illegal here and unless you need a breakaway system it's much better to convert to these, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Override-Cou ... 549wt_1040 or are these illegal over there?

I too on occasion had issues with the " Key " but with the 5 wire hook up I no longer have those issues.. I will ask what is the Mongrel issue?
The Unit you show looks to be a DIY garage shop nightmare.. The issue is to apply brakes on the trailer when the tow vehicel is stopping and THEN to allow backing up without applying the brakes..

Boblee wrote:The standard couplings are a mongrel set up and technically illegal here and unless you need a breakaway system it's much better to convert to these, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Override-Cou ... 549wt_1040 or are these illegal over there?

In the US and Canada, you're required (in most States and Provinces) to have brake activation on break-away, both surge (with the actuator cable) and electric (with a small motorcycle type battery) systems.

But you're not required to have a manual hand brake, and while there used to be (or still are) brake valves you could add to a vehicle (Mico Lever Lock) to hold the hydraulic brakes on, they aren't to be trusted, since if the fluid pressure leaks down, the vehicle is free to roll. I memory serves, there's even a warning on the plate behind the lever to not leave the vehicle unattended while using this 'brake'. I would have the same reservations about using the hand lever on a trailer coupler. Chocks are the order of the day.

Air brake vehicles have been required to use separate spring-applied brake actuators for parking since something like the 60's, since again, if the air pressure leaked down, which it invariably will, the truck or trailer would be free to roll.

The ubiquitous Dico coupler is a stamped metal housing and coupler, and has been around like forever. I've never heard of one failing, though it's certainly possible if it's rusted away or otherwise neglected or abused. They make them, or similar surge brake designs, up to 20,000 lb gross trailer weight, including lunette ring styles, all of the formed steel type of construction.

But if I had an original trailer, I think I'd rather have the large, clunky looking bolt-on couplers rather than the sleek style on there now, as they're much harder to service, but since I have an old trailer with the Dico (now Titan) 6 kip coupler, I'm good.

Well, I will try it out and see if it works better than the present grinded tire nut and duct tape. I dont know about you guys but I dont back up much,for very long and in an agressive manner so I think it will do.
Q1

Bertrand, next time use stainless vise-grips. They'll last much longer!
(c'mon down to the Mad Men this August...)
R.

Divecoz wrote:I too on occasion had issues with the " Key " but with the 5 wire hook up I no longer have those issues.. I will ask what is the Mongrel issue?
The Unit you show looks to be a DIY garage shop nightmare.. The issue is to apply brakes on the trailer when the tow vehicel is stopping and THEN to allow backing up without applying the brakes..

Boblee wrote:The standard couplings are a mongrel set up and technically illegal here and unless you need a breakaway system it's much better to convert to these, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Override-Cou ... 549wt_1040 or are these illegal over there?

Mongrel issues
First problem was no handbrake (must have here in NSW)but made a pin and it got approved/passed locally anyway.
Second the supplied pin for backing is makeshift at best and if trying to back without a vehicle wired as such, a hassle eg left at yards etc.
Third for aussies only the coupling is the wrong size.
Fourth bleeding is an absolute pain.
Any time there was a problem with the trailer or a roadworthy it was usually that piece of junk until finally and thankfully the internals failed and I did what I should have done when it arrived.
We don't need breakaway brakes under 2 tonnes but over we must have electrically actuated brakes, not so bad with electric drums just a simple cheap breakaway system installed but if using discs must have an electric/hydraulic actuator and electric breakaway.
Having electrics means we can't use a surge system which I much prefer but thems the rules.
Far from being a backyard or otherwise nightmare the system I linked to is simplicity itself from all angles.
First handbrake is easy but yes if you have a leak problem use chocks as wellbut that applies to any system but these in NSW have to pass roadworthy each year.
Second reversing just flip lever to negate surge action but don't forget to flip back.
Fourth bleeding easy even single handed.
When I did put a surge brake on initially I just removed the hydraulics and coupling then drilled bolt holes in the existing fixed part of the drawbar but when I finally replaced the whole front part found it was a real patchwork setup with the drawbar extended using two pieces of channel held together by the shell of the surge fitting and some minor welds.

Hi Boblee : ) Now that you have explained what all the levers etc etc are doing it makes more sense. You blokes have a lot more restrictions on vehicles than we do ... The Hand Brake options is still confusing.. I have seldom maybe never needed to chock the trailer.. just lucky I guess.

I always block my trl whl's it's a good theft deterent !!

J

Highlander wrote:I always block my trl whl's it's a good theft deterent !!

J

I added...





.. a tongue support that also has one of those pin locks securing it as a theft deterrent and now the trailer isn't just sitting on the wheel/jack and also the bike rack shown in the second picture that goes in or out of that receiver,

Sum

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Our MacGregor 26-S

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

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Sometimes I block the whls back-up to activate the brakes & then install the lock -out & that locks the brakes on just like a parking brake ,
One time I forgot I done this , pulled the wheels off thinking the brake calipers were seized Then it struck ME ! , Man was I p_ssed off with myself to say the least

J

My stainless Steel surge disk brakes are sitting in my garage for 2 years after the mounting rusted away after 2 years. The brakes always had a drag on them and didn't like them. I also washed the boat/ trailer down after each trip.
Been running on tandem trailer last 2 years (no Brakes)on a 1999 ford 4.2 stick shift and until I find a way these brakes work with no disk drag is when I put them back on.
The Brackets are steel plates attached to axel and were not galvanized and just painted.
I would suggest to lift your tires up with a jack a free wheel spin them to see if drag is there.
Dave

Highlander wrote:Sometimes I block the whls back-up to activate the brakes & then install the lock -out & that locks the brakes on just like a parking brake ,
One time I forgot I done this , pulled the wheels off thinking the brake calipers were seized Then it struck ME ! , Man was I p_ssed off with myself to say the least

J

Dave how measurable was the drag. Disc brakes don't have a spring to pull them off like drums do so even your car disc's are like this. Did you ever have drums and switch to disc with the same master cylinder? If so drums have a residual valve in the brake system that keeps some pressure in the line and you can't have that with the disc or they will really drag as the 1-2 lbs. of pressure in the line will apply the pucks. If someone goes to disc they can't run the drum master cylinder if it has the residual valve,

Sum

===================================
Our MacGregor 26-S

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links
=========================================