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My 60 HP E-TEC worked great from day one. Here in Ohio boating season is short and I don’t use the outboard as much as power boaters. According to manual there is no scheduled maintenance required for 3 years or 300 hours. My engine is 5 years old. It runs great and I am not sure if I should still take it to dealer for scheduled maintenance. I never did any scheduled maintenance for my cars, just oil changes.

Do you guys take your outboards to dealer for scheduled maintenance or just when something breaks?
Do you know if E-TEC would force you somehow (by running in safe mode for example) to perform scheduled maintenance?

Thank you for your input!

dxg4848 wrote:My 60 HP E-TEC worked great from day one. ....

Mine too. But I took it in for the recommended 3-year maintenance this year (year 3, with just over 300 hours on it). The bill was some $600 as indicated beforehand by the dealer. I was willing to pay this in hopes that it will minimize the chance of nasty surprises on the water. Since the overhaul I put another 65 hours on it thrashing my way 180 miles along the open waters of Georgia Strait, where strong-wind warnings and small-craft warnings are standard fare. I guess if I were mechanically skilled and/or spent my time in less crazy tidal water with less rocky and intimidating shorelines I would be willing to wait for something to fail.
Kittiwake
ps. I must remember to ask the dealer whether I'm supposed to wait another 3 years for the next service!

You just reminded me, I was going to ask that at the last service too Oh well, that was 2 years and 10 months ago so I figure it can wait till the next one now

I tend to just stick grease in the grease nipples every 6 months or so, and start it every 3 or 4 months if I'm not using it... My motor doesnt get much use but if it did or I was doing offshore stints on those rocky coastlines, I'd probably do the gear oil every year maybe.

The Etec haters will tell you its bollocks and you should service it every year anyway..

I did mine at 3yrs. My dealer did some software upgrades to the computer, new plugs, and lower unit oil. My only concern after that would be the condition of the water pump impeller. Even then my dealer (honest guy) stated the impellers last a long time particularly if you keep them out of the sand.

I have just put mine in for service. 60HP unit. The hull is a 2011 build but the motor serial number plate is 2008 and the hour meter states 35 hours so was not sure what to do so getting it serviced regardless and the real hours read out of the motor. Fingers crossed. The dealer I am using replaces the cooling water impeller as a matter of course. Cost will be approx AUD550 including labour and parts.

Kittiwake wrote:

dxg4848 wrote:My 60 HP E-TEC worked great from day one. ....

Mine too. But I took it in for the recommended 3-year maintenance this year (year 3, with just over 300 hours on it). The bill was some $600 as indicated beforehand by the dealer. I was willing to pay this in hopes that it will minimize the chance of nasty surprises on the water. Since the overhaul I put another 65 hours on it thrashing my way 180 miles along the open waters of Georgia Strait, where strong-wind warnings and small-craft warnings are standard fare. I guess if I were mechanically skilled and/or spent my time in less crazy tidal water with less rocky and intimidating shorelines I would be willing to wait for something to fail.
Kittiwake
ps. I must remember to ask the dealer whether I'm supposed to wait another 3 years for the next service!

What maintenance services did the dealer actually perform after the three years? I just purchased an E-Tec 50hp today in Massachusetts for use in Rhode Island waters. Best price and lower sales tax in Mass. in addition to a dealer in RI with a boat ramp who services (but doesn't sell) E-Tec motors under warranty. E-Tec dealers (or any dealer) won't sell and install a 60hp and up motor on 50hp MacGregors because of liability concerns.

Most of the 3-year maint. is inspection: http://s65.photobucket.com/user/BigJayR ... e.jpg.html

Outside of inspection, the only things you're "actually getting" are:

Fuel filter replace
Lower unit lube
Spark plugs inspect & replace if necessary

All of those things are use-based and not time-based, so I think it's reasonable to just rely on 300 hours between inspections irrespective of time. In fact I don't see anything on the inspection sheet that would detect time-based problems like corrosion or cracking of hoses other than the inspection, which you can do yourself.

WASP18 wrote:What maintenance services did the dealer actually perform after the three years? ....

Just dug out my receipt again. As Mastreb notes, the great majority of the work done was inspection and computer diagnostics ... with resultant gasket and cotter pin and washer replacement. Also fuel filter replaced and "IMP & KEY AY" (presume impeller), spark plug. Original exhaust muffler was plugged.
With regard to the business of 'dealers refusing to fit an E-Tec 60hp to a 26X'; if the original boat was not OK'd for 60hp I can understand dealers subject to US litigation being hesitant to stick their necks out. My 26M came from the manufacturer with the E-Tec 60 installed.
Kittiwake

Did they also replace the water pump, or were you referring to this when you mentioned "impeller"? We're looking forward to cruising with this motor. We talked about removing the mast and running as a power boat.

What size fuel tanks do you have?

WASP18 wrote:Did they also replace the water pump, or were you referring to this when you mentioned "impeller"? We're looking forward to cruising with this motor. We talked about removing the mast and running as a power boat.
What size fuel tanks do you have?

The work sheet didn't specifically mention "water pump". The mechanic's written report has a line, "REMOVED GEARCASE REPLACED IMPELLER". The part cost $54.
We use two "Scepter 45 liter" plastic fuel tanks: they came with the boat from the manufacturer as an option and fit nicely under the cockpit seats ... leaving no extra space. Fuel tank choices have been mentioned in past threads as I recall; but I have been satisfied with ours and I believe they are pretty standard. Fuel consumption has also been discussed elsewhere, but the bottom line is we could cruise all day without refilling for a week running at 3-5 mph (much less if planing). I was amused to read the label on the tanks that says they are to be removed from the boat for filling: they not only weigh a ton when filled; they are also slippery suckers like the snails in the movie, Pretty Woman ... so good luck on replacing them after filling.
I am a fan of removing the mast for serious exploring. During our recent 10-day trip up one side of (windy-rough-water) Georgia Strait north of Nanaimo and down the other (for the first time) I wished repeatedly that I had followed my own advice and left the mast at home.
Kittiwake

Kittiwake wrote:

WASP18 wrote:Did they also replace the water pump, or were you referring to this when you mentioned "impeller"? We're looking forward to cruising with this motor. We talked about removing the mast and running as a power boat.
What size fuel tanks do you have?

The work sheet didn't specifically mention "water pump". The mechanic's written report has a line, "REMOVED GEARCASE REPLACED IMPELLER". The part cost $54.
We use two "Scepter 45 liter" plastic fuel tanks: they came with the boat from the manufacturer as an option and fit nicely under the cockpit seats ... leaving no extra space. Fuel tank choices have been mentioned in past threads as I recall; but I have been satisfied with ours and I believe they are pretty standard. Fuel consumption has also been discussed elsewhere, but the bottom line is we could cruise all day without refilling for a week running at 3-5 mph (much less if planing). I was amused to read the label on the tanks that says they are to be removed from the boat for filling: they not only weigh a ton when filled; they are also slippery suckers like the snails in the movie, Pretty Woman ... so good luck on replacing them after filling.
I am a fan of removing the mast for serious exploring. During our recent 10-day trip up one side of (windy-rough-water) Georgia Strait north of Nanaimo and down the other (for the first time) I wished repeatedly that I had followed my own advice and left the mast at home.
Kittiwake

Actually, removing the tanks and placing them on the ground at a gas station or pier when refilling is paramount for safety reasons. Static electricity could happen when filling the tanks on the boat causing an explosion. That's why I asked the question as to the size tanks you have. Gas weighs six pounds per gallon therefore a 12 gallon tank weighs about 82 - 85 pounds (tank empty weight 10 - 13 pounds). I have two 6 gallon tanks and plan on buying a spare tank rated at 3 gallons based on the principle of the old Volkswagon Beetle which had a spare tank and no gas gauge. The smaller tanks are heavy enough when lifting them from the ground or pier and that's why I avoided the twelve gallon size.

If you pull a plug for an inspection make sure you index it when you reinstall. TIP: Mark the insulator with a marking pen and reinstall with the mark in the same place.

Bob

WASP18 wrote:

Kittiwake wrote:

WASP18 wrote:Did they also replace the water pump, or were you referring to this when you mentioned "impeller"? We're looking forward to cruising with this motor. We talked about removing the mast and running as a power boat.
What size fuel tanks do you have?

The work sheet didn't specifically mention "water pump". The mechanic's written report has a line, "REMOVED GEARCASE REPLACED IMPELLER". The part cost $54.
We use two "Scepter 45 liter" plastic fuel tanks: they came with the boat from the manufacturer as an option and fit nicely under the cockpit seats ... leaving no extra space. Fuel tank choices have been mentioned in past threads as I recall; but I have been satisfied with ours and I believe they are pretty standard. Fuel consumption has also been discussed elsewhere, but the bottom line is we could cruise all day without refilling for a week running at 3-5 mph (much less if planing). I was amused to read the label on the tanks that says they are to be removed from the boat for filling: they not only weigh a ton when filled; they are also slippery suckers like the snails in the movie, Pretty Woman ... so good luck on replacing them after filling.
I am a fan of removing the mast for serious exploring. During our recent 10-day trip up one side of (windy-rough-water) Georgia Strait north of Nanaimo and down the other (for the first time) I wished repeatedly that I had followed my own advice and left the mast at home.
Kittiwake

Actually, removing the tanks and placing them on the ground at a gas station or pier when refilling is paramount for safety reasons. Static electricity could happen when filling the tanks on the boat causing an explosion. That's why I asked the question as to the size tanks you have. Gas weighs six pounds per gallon therefore a 12 gallon tank weighs about 82 - 85 pounds (tank empty weight 10 - 13 pounds). I have two 6 gallon tanks and plan on buying a spare tank rated at 3 gallons based on the principle of the old Volkswagon Beetle which had a spare tank and no gas gauge. The smaller tanks are heavy enough when lifting them from the ground or pier and that's why I avoided the twelve gallon size.

X2 on the 2.5/3.0 aux tanks + Seafoam in the 6 gal tanks.

Bob

I use "StaBil". Have had good experience with storing gas for snowblower, lawnmower and house generator with StaBil. What is "X2"?

WASP18 wrote:Actually, removing the tanks and placing them on the ground at a gas station or pier when refilling is paramount for safety reasons. Static electricity could happen when filling the tanks on the boat causing an explosion. ......

I have heard things along the lines you mention above but I don't see it done in real life. I just 'googled' the concept and came up with a quote from the following web site:

http://boatbuild.wordpress.com/2010/07/ ... -gas-tank/
"183.572 – Grounding (http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/ ... partp.aspx)

Each metallic component of the fuel fill system and fuel tank which is in contact with fuel must be statically grounded so that the resistance between the ground and each metallic component of the fuel fill system and fuel tank is less than 100 ohms.

Fuel flowing from the dispensing nozzle into a fuel tank is a potential source of a static electric charge which could cause a spark between the dispensing nozzle and metal component of the fuel tank fill system. To prevent such a spark from occurring, metallic components of the fuel tank fill system and metallic fuel tanks must be grounded.

Grounding or bonding may be accomplished by connecting the metallic components electrically by running a wire from one component to the next, and so forth to the boat’s ground. Grounding can usually be accomplished by a connection to the common bonding conductor or the engine negative terminal.

If the fuel tank deck fill fitting is nonmetallic, and nonconductive hose is used as a fill pipe, there is no need for grounding the fill fitting. Chrome-plated plastic fill fittings are treated the same as metallic fittings."

Note especially the last sentence above. Having juggled-and-dropped even empty plastic fuel tanks just transferring them on solid ground, I am guessing that the fire risk of transferring filled or not-quite-empty plastic tanks with plastic fill fittings into and out of a floating or trailered boat is far greater than the risk of leaving them in the boat. But I remain open to suggestions!
Kittiwake