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I have the 2011 Aluminum trailer and I am planning to remove the tongue and paint the inside of it. I think some of you have done this already. Does anyone know what torque to use on the bolts when re-installing the tongue?

I would torque it until it felt right - the size wrench used based on the fastener diameter. For these large bolts, would use the 1/2 inch socket wrench and tighten as tight as I could, stopping if I felt the bolts stretching or slipping. I used to be a big torque wrench user, but after learning how torque values are generally only good for new hardware installed without lubrication (unless otherwise noted) I only use a torque wrench where it is really needed (wheel lug bolts [yeah, Volvo has bolts, not nuts] and engine head bolts).

I hate the corrosion inside my trailer tongue and would like to hear how you go about this. I have considered it but with the wiring and the boat still on the trailer, felt it may be a bit problematic to do.

why take it off? I just used automotive frame interior paint + rust converter, which comes with a spray applicator hose, and snaked it into the interior of the trailer. Seems to have done the trick, considering how much worse off my untreated jack-stand is.

Here's what I used. The "nozzle" is a 3' long hose with an applicator tip that you just snake through the interior of the frame and pull out as you spray. Took maybe 10 minutes and has done trick.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame- ... ozzle.html

Personally I'm very disappointed that the factory never rust-treated the steel parts of the trailer. I also don't like the fact that the stock jack stand is welded to the frame--it's time to replace mine with stainless but there's no good way to remove it.

I'll fire up the oxy acetylene when you come visit and have that thing off before you can say roger the cabin boy....

I also don't like the fact that the stock jack stand is welded to the frame--it's time to replace mine with stainless but there's no good way to remove it.

My 6" angle grinder with diamond cut off wheel made short work of removing mine

kadet wrote:

I also don't like the fact that the stock jack stand is welded to the frame--it's time to replace mine with stainless but there's no good way to remove it.

My 6" angle grinder with diamond cut off wheel made short work of removing mine

Get thee to your local Harbor Freight, and pick up the 4-1/2" angle grinder. The HD one is on sale for $22 (down from $30). I have one, but don't remember if it's the HD or the standard (on sale now for $15), but for infrequent odd jobs, like trailer repair, it's just fine. They'll take it back if you break it, so don't let the bad reviews deter you. Comes with cutting and grinding wheels, and they're cheap to buy if you need more.

They'd never hold up in an industrial setting, but to cut the jack off the pole tongue, or replace the surge coupler that's welded on ( trailers), it's just ducky, and faaaaar cheaper than investing in torches and gas bottles, and the skill to remove welds without digging out the base metal.

I believe those are ny-loc nuts at that location, no need to torq, just tighten snug and they will be fine.

Ray,

Tightening and leaving with nylock nuts will prevent the nuts from falling off. But, and I do not know how important it is here, torqueing the bolts either with a torque wrench or by feel introduces a preload to the bolts that will eliminate most or all the fatigue loading. Again, not sure if this is an issue with these bolts.

mastreb wrote:why take it off? I just used automotive frame interior paint + rust converter, which comes with a spray applicator hose, and snaked it into the interior of the trailer. Seems to have done the trick, considering how much worse off my untreated jack-stand is.

Here's what I used. The "nozzle" is a 3' long hose with an applicator tip that you just snake through the interior of the frame and pull out as you spray. Took maybe 10 minutes and has done trick.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame- ... ozzle.html

Personally I'm very disappointed that the factory never rust-treated the steel parts of the trailer. I also don't like the fact that the stock jack stand is welded to the frame--it's time to replace mine with stainless but there's no good way to remove it.

Mastreb,

How long ago did you use this product? When was the last time you looked inside the trailer tongue. Sounds like this product is a big time saver.

EZ wrote:

mastreb wrote:why take it off? I just used automotive frame interior paint + rust converter, which comes with a spray applicator hose, and snaked it into the interior of the trailer. Seems to have done the trick, considering how much worse off my untreated jack-stand is.

Here's what I used. The "nozzle" is a 3' long hose with an applicator tip that you just snake through the interior of the frame and pull out as you spray. Took maybe 10 minutes and has done trick.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame- ... ozzle.html

Personally I'm very disappointed that the factory never rust-treated the steel parts of the trailer. I also don't like the fact that the stock jack stand is welded to the frame--it's time to replace mine with stainless but there's no good way to remove it.

Mastreb,

How long ago did you use this product? When was the last time you looked inside the trailer tongue. Sounds like this product is a big time saver.

I did this two years ago, when the trailer was one year old. I just took my iPhone out and used it as an inspection camera to get a good look. It looks like my coverage was incomplete and uneven. Where the rust converter is (main tube of the draw bar), it has worked well, where it isn't (aft portion, end sections), rust has continued. However rust everywhere in the drawbar is far less than rust on the jack stand, which was untreated. So I'm going to get another two cans and go back over everything when we're back from the MUCK about (because I know I'm never going to disassemble it to paint the interior).

So "10 minutes" is a bit of an underestimation for a complete job, but it's certainly retarding the formation of rust. Take care to spray the aft end-section of the drawbar (unpainted) and the forward area where the springs are. Those are areas I didn't get the first time. Also go over the jack-stand if you intend to keep it.

Matt

Matt,

Thanks for the feedback.

From what I have read online, rust converter generally converts the top layer of rust and seals it from the elements. If this top layer of rust is not stable, it can flake off and expose the metal. Before I spray, I think I'll try to remove as much rust as I can without removing tongue.

Ok so here's what I did. I posted this in the mods section, but had trouble uploading pictures.

Step 1) Remove first and last tongue bolts. I replaced these with smaller 1/4-20 bolts to allow for better access inside the tongue for mechanically removing unstable rust and for applying rust converter. Also to capture the aluminum spacers in the unlikely event they were to come loose and fall.


Before

Step 2) I purchased a drill extension tool from Lowe's. This allowed me to remove unstable rust with a small brush.



Step 3) Apply rust converter. I used Eastwood Internal frame coating which comes with a two foot extension hose and conical nozzle. Thanks to Mastreb(Matt) for recommending this product. First I inserted the hose into the forward most bolt hole and sprayed as I pulled the hose back. Then I inserted the hose from the back of the tongue and repeated the process. After the frame coating dried, I painted the rear end of the tongue with black gloss Hammerite paint.


After

After inspection, I noticed I missed a lot of spots on the rearmost section. On re-application, I inspected as I sprayed to ensure good coverage. Since I could not inspect the forward section I coated, I can only hope it covered ok.

I torqued the tongue bolts to 65 ft-lbs as recommended by my dealer. The spec on these bolts is 70 ft-lbs lubricated.

As to rust prevention

I love these for inspection
http://www.ridgid.com/tools/seesnake-micro. Changed the way I buy old cars.

I'm a big fan of homemade waxoyl.

Can spray it with a garden sprayer and saturate the area as its very cheap to make. More of a preventive than a " repair"

You can make gallons of the stuff for near nothing. Find recipes and application methods online.

I am a fan of the Eastwood stuff too, but too pricey. Used it on bug heater channels, nothing else.

I also dig some some ppg dx520 or or similar A green zinc containing prep solution followed by an undercoat. Jasco is another brand cheaper and more aggressive. They advertise it as a rust primer. Can be applied with a garden sprayer... Cheap ( cept the ppg)
Basically the next best thing to galvanizing. Works on clean or rust. In Hawaii I would always treat my bare metal with this stuff before epoxy prime due to the humid salt air and lack of clean room. It would rust before you could mix the paint. Also provided some decent adhesion I think. Never had problems... But epoxy primer just won't flake either.

As to bolt tightening

Tight is tight.. Probably won't break one of those. Galvanized is good, stainless tends to sheer rather than give. They sell titanium fittings in some ace stores as well. Probably not warranted. If you're tightening to bolt stretch the old torque to yield. Fine as long as you're using a new bolt every time.