MacGregorSailors.com

I am fairly new to the forum and and read it with great interest every day, but alas I do not have the experience to add anything to much as of yet. Here is my issue;

I am doing some small upgrades on the inside. One of which was to install a Origo stove. I removed the tile from the galley top, and to my surprise, the galley top is recessed where the tile is. I should have done my homework first or I would have left it alone. Anyhow my question is that I am thinking now about putting a top on the galley and cutting out for the sink and stove to hide the recess. What do you think about using HDPE cutting board and getting it custom cut to the right size? Seems like it would be useful and fairly tough. Am I making a mistake by doing this? I really like the idea of making it useable as a cutting board across the entire top. The origo stove from my test would not get hot enough to melt I believe, Or am I wrong?

http://www.thecuttingboardfactory.com/

Found this company and had positive reviews.

Thanks

HDPE is a very bad idea for a counter top. It melts at a quite low temperature, so the first time you accidentally drop something hot on it - or worse yet, put a hot pan onto it - you'll end up having a scarred and nasty looking galley top. Plus, it can stain over time and is easily scratched by abrasives.

Also, for a cutting surface you want something you can wash very thoroughly and replace once in a while, in order to reduce the growth of bacteria. We use a small, inexpensive cutting board that gets tossed at the end of each season or whenever it becomes difficult to clean.

My suggestion is to apply something more like what you'd find in a normal kitchen - for example, my galley top has been replaced by Formica and it has held up very nicely.

Make a template out of firm paper and then transfer that pattern to the Formica (or use another laminate brand like Wilsonart) and then cut it out (very slowly!) using the finest blade you can find with a sabre saw. Dress the edges around the sink using a counter-top edging bit in a router. Glue down with paint-on solvent-based 3M contact adhesive. BTW, when transferring the template you should flip it over and transfer it to the *back* of the laminate, and then make your cut from the back of the laminate... this will reduce chipping of the surface on the cut lines.

Thanks for the tip, where did you get your formica?

Lvoight wrote:Thanks for the tip, where did you get your formica?

You can get it at any Lowes, Home Depot or other home hardware supplier.

You may have to buy a whole sheet. If you're not particular over what color/style you get you could ask if they have any off-cuts they will sell at discount. You could also approach a kitchen counter installer firm with the same question.

kmclemore wrote:

Lvoight wrote:Thanks for the tip, where did you get your formica?

You can get it at any Lowes, Home Depot or other home hardware supplier.

You may have to buy a whole sheet. If you're not particular over what color/style you get you could ask if they have any off-cuts they will sell at discount. You could also approach a kitchen counter installer firm with the same question.

Thanks for the tips. Any special way to cut? I see you rounded the corners, I thought formica was fairly brittle.

Woodworking tools are all you need, but it is a bit abrasive, so carbide is preferred. At least if you do a lot of it. Saws, routers, files, etc.

Lvoight wrote:

kmclemore wrote:

Lvoight wrote:Thanks for the tip, where did you get your formica?

You can get it at any Lowes, Home Depot or other home hardware supplier.

You may have to buy a whole sheet. If you're not particular over what color/style you get you could ask if they have any off-cuts they will sell at discount. You could also approach a kitchen counter installer firm with the same question.

Thanks for the tips. Any special way to cut? I see you rounded the corners, I thought formica was fairly brittle.

Re-read my posting!

Any special way to cut?

Re-read my posting!

And placing masking tape over the line to be cut on the good side (press and smooth the tape down well) will also help to reduce the amount of chip tear-out.

We use replaceable wood cutting boards on top of our attached two burner propane stove and sink to maximize the space.

You can buy saw blades....



... with the teeth reversed to cut from the top side. I've cut a lot of countertops with them. The only negative to them is that you need to keep the saw pressed down as the teeth won't pull the saw into the work. Home Depot and ...

http://www.toolbarn.com/bosch-t101br.ht ... 4Aod7lgApw

... others have the blades. If you are cutting a piece that is not glued to particle board I'd clamp it to one and cut both out at the same time clamping and un-clamping so you don't cut up a large piece,

Sum

===================================
Our MacGregor 26-S

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

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Or make a template, cut and smoothed to the finished profile, and route the piece out with a flush cutting bit with ball bearing guide. Use a bevel bit if you want to put a bevel on the edge. If it's not glued to the template, like it would be with a real countertop, you can clamp the top with multiple clamps and move them one or two at a time as you go around.

tkanzler wrote:Or make a template, cut and smoothed to the finished profile, and route the piece out with a flush cutting bit with ball bearing guide. Use a bevel bit if you want to put a bevel on the edge. If it's not glued to the template, like it would be with a real countertop, you can clamp the top with multiple clamps and move them one or two at a time as you go around.

That is the best solution. More time, but better results,

Sum

===================================
Our MacGregor 26-S

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

Sumner wrote:

tkanzler wrote:Or make a template, cut and smoothed to the finished profile, and route the piece out with a flush cutting bit with ball bearing guide. Use a bevel bit if you want to put a bevel on the edge. If it's not glued to the template, like it would be with a real countertop, you can clamp the top with multiple clamps and move them one or two at a time as you go around.

That is the best solution. More time, but better results,

Summers working in a custom cabinet shop. Good times, good times . . .

tkanzler wrote:....Summers working in a custom cabinet shop. Good times, good times . . .

I worked for a guy for about 6 months installing cabinets, counters (making some) and installing the fake rock around fireplaces and such. The job was ok but the guy was not and I moved on,

Sum

===================================
Our MacGregor 26-S

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

That happens Sumner.. Not every boss is a good boss / owner.. The young fellow I have hired to help me with some projects here.. ( part time evenings and weekends) worked for a tile marble Travertine " Store" .. His Boss charged $6 a Sq. Ft. for the install ( Nothing out of his pocket.. pure profit ) and Paid Tyler $1 per sq ft. I hear that story down here a LOT!

Sumner wrote:

tkanzler wrote:....Summers working in a custom cabinet shop. Good times, good times . . .

I worked for a guy for about 6 months installing cabinets, counters (making some) and installing the fake rock around fireplaces and such. The job was ok but the guy was not and I moved on,

Sum