MacGregorSailors.com

my trailer seems to be in good shape ,just pulled it 265 miles with out any problems ,want to go to jaxmac which is another couple hunded miles ,do you guys do anything other than look for rust ,and pump up bearings ???? no rust on my trailer ,will be putting my boat on a new aluminum trailer when i get back so this will be the last trip for original trailer ?????tire sre great shape too...but i might carry two spares

I towed mine from California to Arizona with no problems. but when I towed it to a local lake the lug nuts on one wheel came off and really messed up the hub and totally destroyed the wheel. Check the bolts whenever you stop.

Also remember that both wheel do up the same way ie clockwise but spin opposite so naturally the LHS when standing behind the trailor will undo themselves more readily......experienced the problem...wheel into the bush at luckily only 35-40 mph...ripped up the tar really well

Grease hitch ball, safety chain from hitch to receiver, and safety chain from winch post to bow. Check that the hitch height is at the recommended setting, mine is 13".

MAC Out

As mentioned in previous posts, use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts on the wheels to specification. Retorque 100 miles later, but not when they’re hot. Then enjoy your trip and don’t worry yourself along the way with things you could have controlled, but didn’t.

Buy a good torque wrench, (watch for one on sale) take care of it, and keep it for the (now possibly extended) rest of your life.

Chrysler cars (in the 60’s that I know personally of) had left hand threads on the lug nuts on one side of the car, ostensibly to reduce the risk of the nuts coming off if they loosened. Some owners were not aware of this, and, as you might guess, it caused more problems than it solved.

- Brian.

seahouse wrote:As mentioned in previous posts, use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts on the wheels to specification. Retorque 100 miles later, but not when they’re hot. Then enjoy your trip and don’t worry yourself along the way with things you could have controlled, but didn’t.

Buy a good torque wrench, (watch for one on sale) take care of it, and keep it for the (now possibly extended) rest of your life.

Totally agree, and for God's sake, please don't use lube on the threads... it substantially changes the torque load on the studs.

Also, re the torque wrench, whenever you are not using the torque wrench be SURE to set it back to '0' (zero) - no NOT leave it on the torque setting for the lugs. The reason is that the wrench will retain its accuracy far better if you unload the mechanism while stored.

Agreed, Kevin!

Torque wrenches are supposed to be recalibrated at certain intervals of use to maintain accuracy. But prudent storage can extend these intervals, especially important for someone not in the trade who's not deriving income from it to justify the expense.

- Brian.

"Don't use lube on the threads" one of those wives tales that just won't die no matter how much you beat it.better advice is to make sure your threads are clean and have no corrosion. as far as the lube goes almost any procedure that requires precision torquing or bolt stretching will require lubing of threads and is usually called out in the engineering spec's or drawings if your using them. your car or trailer is no different and will thank yourself late at night far from home when that salt water trailer tire blows out.Never in 40 years of torquing and lubing lug nuts to their proper value have i ever even experienced one loosening after proper installation, or snapped a lug bolt from over stretching.

Ditto, on the torque wrench being stored at a zero setting.
I was also surprised at Kevins warning concerning putting anything on the threads. I used to use WD40 waay back in my volkswagen days but was converted to a couple of swipes over the threads with a carpenters pencil (graphite), after a wire brushing, and before tightening.
This procedure was given to me by a school (automotive) shop teacher.

Wrong or right?

R

raycarlson wrote:"Don't use lube on the threads" one of those wives tales that just won't die no matter how much you beat it.better advice is to make sure your threads are clean and have no corrosion. as far as the lube goes almost any procedure that requires precision torquing or bolt stretching will require lubing of threads and is usually called out in the engineering spec's or drawings if your using them. your car or trailer is no different and will thank yourself late at night far from home when that salt water trailer tire blows out.Never in 40 years of torquing and lubing lug nuts to their proper value have i ever even experienced one loosening after proper installation, or snapped a lug bolt from over stretching.

It all depends on if the original torque specs were for dry or lubricated fasteners - if you lubricate and then torque to a dry torque spec - you will over torque. This may not be a real issue in consumer serviced items like lug nuts that are not torqued close to yield. In practical experience, torque values are more feel good than accurate - unless you plan on using new fasteners every time - as you should for torque critical applications such as head bolts. One of the best reasons to use a torque wrench for lug nuts (or lug bolts as on my car) is to ensure all are torqued equally thus avoiding problems with brake disks.
I personally clean most fasteners using a motor mounted wire wheel to remove corrosion and return the fasteners to as close to new as possible.
Personally, unless corrosion is an issue (steel fasteners in aluminium), I have never seen an assembly drawing stating to use lubricant (most my experience in the military aircraft industry and commercial and government IT products) - the exception is for fasteners installed with threadlocking compound.
And ditto on zeroing out torque wrenches (unless you have a beam type ) - BTW, anyone know of a reasonable way for consumers to get thier torque wrenches checked (low cost and not a PITA)?

RobertB wrote:In practical experience, torque values are more feel good than accurate - unless you plan on using new fasteners every time - as you should for torque critical applications such as head bolts.

Unfortunately, this is true. I did a lot of research many years ago on threaded fastener preload and residual preload (preload remaining after some period of time) using many different methods, and torque was the least reliable of all of them. This was in the context of crane turntable bolts, where fatigue from inadequate preload is a real issue.

RobertB wrote: One of the best reasons to use a torque wrench for lug nuts (or lug bolts as on my car) is to ensure all are torqued equally thus avoiding problems with brake disks.

Another is that you get a feel for how tight they should be. If you have no idea what 100 lb-ft (for instance) feels like, you may be cranking them up until you're approaching yield, or conversely maybe not anywhere near where they should be.

Which then begs the question, what exactly IS the torque of a typical 1/2"-20 lug nut supposed to be?

I use 100 foot pounds on lug nuts/bolts - value traces back to specs on the Volvo and Volkswagen cars I own.

Towed Freedom in caravan with 4 others from L.A. to Washington. Overkill but, 1. Wrap a length of chain from hitch around strong point on trailer. 2. put lock or place bolt through hitch ball lock. 3. make sure you have a good spare that fits. 4. Stop every 200 mi or so and check lug nuts and tire inflation and integrity. Feel hubs for excess heat. 4. check springs and U-bolts before you leave for breaks, cracks and bolt tightness. Make sure mast is tied down well so it won't bounce in the middle. Make sure lights are working. A ticket can ruin your day. I'm sure I've forgotter a dozen other things but you get the idea. Good Luck.

Chicago IL. To Port Charlotte Florida and back.. No Issues either end.. Common sense.. Buddy Bearings Good Tires and Proper Tire pressure.. check everything for tell tale signs with each gas stop..Ran at some pretty high speeds to stay with Over The Road Drivers.. Proper tow vehicle is a must IMHO for what ever you are towing and for the distance your going to tow.. Sub-standard tow rig might be fine for a few miles but for hundreds or thousands of miles .. You Really Do Need what ever is " Proper"..

I use an infrared heat detector at each fuel stop to check bearings, tires, and brakes temps.