MacGregorSailors.com

After following this forum quite closely, I was convinced to buy a new 27' LoadRite trailer instead of attempting to modify my original Macgregor boat trailer. Although it is more expensive to do so, the new trailer is a superior upgrade in all aspects of trailering.

A few minor changes include some pad eyes for rear hold down straps.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1678

The LoadRite trailer actually is designed with hold down straps in mind, so pad eyes were added to the rear of the boat. In the past I had used large straps across the cockpit from one side of the trailer to the other side.

Congrats on the new trailer, I assume its a tandem. I instead spent
some shop time last winter and added a second axle to my stock
Macgregor trailer. Where do you sail? We sail mainly on Lake Lenore,
Last Mountain and Candle Lake. Seagriff

Around here I sail mostly Diefenbaker, although I have been to Candle. I pull the rig to the west coast once per summer, and so the reason for upgrading the trailer. Some day, maybe Last Mountain.

A nice perk of the 27' loadrite. I added pad eyes to the top motor mount bolts so I could use transom tiedowns. Sure is a lot eaiser than a big strap over the cockpit. BTW if you begin blowing fuses for the running lights check the wiring inside the rear cross member. The wiring for the 3 LED light bar (located on the rear cross member) is routed inside the cross member and gets pinched inside the cross member by the right hand guide post. I rerouted the wire on the outside to solve the problem. Absolutly love the trailer!!

Semper Fi wrote:A nice perk of the 27' loadrite. I added pad eyes to the top motor mount bolts so I could use transom tiedowns. Sure is a lot eaiser than a big strap over the cockpit. BTW if you begin blowing fuses for the running lights check the wiring inside the rear cross member. The wiring for the 3 LED light bar (located on the rear cross member) is routed inside the cross member and gets pinched inside the cross member by the right hand guide post. I rerouted the wire on the outside to solve the problem. Absolutly love the trailer!!

Do the LED lights need to be unplugged? I have not been unplugging them.
Thanks for the tip on the rear light bar.

Today I moved the axles forward three inches, and the tongue weight dropped from 725 lbs down to just under 400 lbs. Much better.

Phil,

Is 1200 lbs a high enough rating for any hold down strap? I am not an engineer of any sort, but I wonder if that number is high enough? There is a lot of bouncing around going on at the tail end of a trailer. Also, will these strap locations give the same stability of a cockpit wrap around strap?

Ray

NiceAft wrote:Phil,

Is 1200 lbs a high enough rating for any hold down strap? I am not an engineer of any sort, but I wonder if that number is high enough? There is a lot of bouncing around going on at the tail end of a trailer. Also, will these strap locations give the same stability of a cockpit wrap around strap?

Ray

Good question. The tie down straps were specifically made for that purpose, but you never know what the Chinese are thinking when they make our products.
I would imagine that tie down straps at the rear would do a better job of stabilizing the boat than cockpit wrap around straps.

Phil M,
Congrats on the new trailer. I am in the process of adding a second set of axial running bunks to my near brand new 2009 Karavan dual axle trailer. How do you weigh your tongue? How did you deal with the relatively flat bottom of the Mac when setting up your bunks? I am adding four siderails in order to help center the boat (each two feet long), but still anticipate some problems with this. The bunks just look too flat.

Cheers,
Balazs

vitger wrote:Phil M,
Congrats on the new trailer. I am in the process of adding a second set of axial running bunks to my near brand new 2009 Karavan dual axle trailer. How do you weigh your tongue? How did you deal with the relatively flat bottom of the Mac when setting up your bunks? I am adding four siderails in order to help center the boat (each two feet long), but still anticipate some problems with this. The bunks just look too flat.

Cheers,
Balazs

Weighing the tongue with a bathroom scale similar to this setup
http://hildstrom.com/projects/tonguescale/index.html

Uses a four by four post in measured increments.

I notice that the forward bunks actually curve under the weight, while the rear bunks are straight. The bunks are Only carpeted two by fours.

vitger wrote:I am in the process of adding a second set of axial running bunks to my near brand new 2009 Karavan dual axle trailer. How do you weigh your tongue?

Since my tongue load is relatively low with my dual-axle trailer and empty , I can measure directly with a 2-by straight down to the scale from under the ball socket on the coupler. No need for a lever system, but what's shown in the link is the proper way to do it, i.e. pipe fulcrums for accurate geometry. 50/50 would also work just as well, if the intended tongue load is no more than twice the scale's capacity.