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Any tips on troubleshooting a very stiff roller furler? All the time I've had the boat the furler has been very hard to extend and retract. In fact I've broken the line that furls the genoa, preparing to replace that. To extend or retract I've now gotten into the habit of going up and extending/retracting by hand, turning the foil by grabbing it and twisting. I think it's the bearing at the bow (foot) that's sticking but I'm not positive yet. I've used some silicone lube that's helped a little, but something isn't right. My biggest worry of course is demasting which is why I usually do it by hand, trying to reduce stress on the forestay.

I read somewhere here that backstay tension may be an issue, so I'm going to fiddle with that next. I'm trying not to have to lower the mast, but will if that's what it takes. How hard is it to lower the genoa and remove it? I think I have to tie a line (forget the proper term) to lower it since there's no true halyard here, but I assume that's not too terrible. I'm thinking it will be easier to troubleshoot and repair with the sail removed.

I just watched a video of someone sailing an X and saw him fly the genoa like it was on diamond bearings, just reeled right out. Now I'm having furler envy!

Thanks,
Gerry

Hi, I assume that you have a CDI FF2 furler. If you look at the whole assembly, is everything straight, no major kinks in the luff extrusion or dings in the metal furler drum ? Is there at least a bit of space on top above the sail towards the mast ? Is the sheet to raise/lower the foresail not in the way but fixed on the halyard anchor pin and shackle ? is your forestay tensioned enough ? Where does the furling line exit ? Once the foresail is unfurled, does the mechanism turn easier ? When I first started to "play" with my furler, mine would turn only with difficulties and I hadn't wound the furling line properly. With the foresail fully pulled out and cleated off, take out the luff support pin, so you can slide up the luff extrusion + sail a bit and then are able to to turn the drum without the sail. With the furling line completely unwound, see again if the furling mechanism moves easily. It's amazing what can accumulate inside there. Inside mine, the washer above the HDPE bearing was completely rusted (not sure if that was CDI OEM or an improvement by a PO) and a mixture of salt, grime and rust was all around the bearing . Then prewind some of the furling line back onto the drum before you now let the extrusion rest back on the drum and fix the luff support pin again. If it is still not winding easily, is the angle between drum and the exiting furling line ok ? The manual states it should exit at 90 degrees.

Hope this helps.

Fair winds,

FS

There is a Torlon bearing upgrade to the FF2 that can corrode up and stick too. The washer corroding on the HDPE Bering won't change the friction as badly though. Even rusted metal will slide over plastic pretty well. Washer should be SS of course...

It should feel easier in extreems of travel, but is the furlead/rope 90 degress to the drum? i.e rope not winding on/off without buidling up and binding?

Most furling problems are mostly caused by a twisted furling line which usually happens from not keeping tension on the slack side of the furling line this will make the line bunch up on one section of the drum , forestay tension really should not be an issue unless its really too slack !! Although more backstay tension will improve lighter furling effort plus all said above make sure ur jib halyard is not interfering with ur furler wrapping onto the furler with ur sail
J

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will look at all those things. One thing I will say is I don't think it's related to the fuller line in the drum, it's stiff at both ends of travel all the time regardless of line wound into the drum. To unfurl, for example, I'd have to use a winch on the sheet to get it done from the cockpit. And of course I won't do that, too much stress on the furler/forestay.

Other than whats been said, ck your turnbuckle and make sure the cotter pins are wraped tight around the threads and also any shine on them to indicate rubbing,ck also washers for any signs of rubbing/wear.
Dave

ginks wrote:Thanks for all the suggestions, I will look at all those things. One thing I will say is I don't think it's related to the fuller line in the drum, it's stiff at both ends of travel all the time regardless of line wound into the drum. To unfurl, for example, I'd have to use a winch on the sheet to get it done from the cockpit. And of course I won't do that, too much stress on the furler/forestay.

Have you tried turning the furler drum by hand when the mast is down (holding the clevis from rotating) - would give you a good feel for where it is binding. Worst case, with the mast down, remove the foresail, have someone hold the clevis taught using a rod or screwdriver, and try turning the drum and the plastic sleeve over its length by hand. Best to know exactly where the problem is.

THIS POST has a couple pictures of what is inside the furler drum so you can see how simple it is in there...