MacGregorSailors.com

Divecoz wrote:So I set the Alarm with a swing of about 50'.

Frank C wrote:Once again ... the easiest way to learn about side-anchoring is to run a quick prototype "Lunch test." Just tie-off your anchor rode to the aft pulpit stanchion. Here's the "Lunch Hook Test Mode", no chocks, no bridle, no investment, no hassles:

1. Anchor normally & cleat the rode at the bow;
2. Now pull another ten feet of excess, leftover rode from the anchor locker;
3. Lead surplus rode outside the pulpit;
4. And back to the last stanchion where pulpit ends;
5. (this is adjacent to the "deck seam" between anchor hatch and fore-hatch);
6. So now you have a "5-foot loop" of anchor rode at the stanchion
   (leading back to the bow cleat, also to the remaining pile of rode);
7. Tie that "loop" of rode onto the stanchion base;
8. Release your original cleat, so the bow now rides forward & rode bears onto the stanchion.
9. Leave some slack from the stanchion & re-cleat the lazy rode as a backup to the stanchion.
10. You'll be amazed that just this little change dramatically reduces swinging.

OR, try the "Lunch Hook Bridle Test:"

1. Anchor normally & cleat the rode at the bow;
2. Insert a half-hitch loop into the lazy rode, after the cleat;
3. Tie a 15-foot dockline into this little loop of rode
   (use bowline knots in both places if you know how - easy to release);
4. Lead the dockline outside the stanchions & shrouds, secure to either winch;
5. RE-cleat the lazy rode (on the idle cleat) about six feet behind the new loop & dockline;
6. Uncleat the original cleat so the anchor now pulls the triangle of lines (off-side cleat + the winch);
7. Lengthen or shorten the dockline at the winch to alter the bridle triangle;
8. Testing an infinite number of bridle points to learn the hull's bridled behavior.

Frank C wrote:I was so happy that I upped the order to 260 feet, giving myself enough for that long dockline I've been wanting for my "anchor-bridle / preventer." Here's the logic.

Dockline
My multi-purpose, 60' dockline has a dock-loop in each end (simple bowline for starters). With one loop over stb-aft cleat, it will lead forward along the hull, thru the boweye, and then back to aft-port cleat. Looped at both aft cleats, the 60-footer leaves barely enough slack for docking. But, when docking on the portside, move the stb loop forward to drop over the stb winch, giving a ~45' dockline on port .... and similarly if docking to stb, loop over the port winch. The 45 feet provide some combo for hooking two dock cleats with a springline & tail. If the cleats aren't handy, there's still another 15 feet of surplus hanging on opposite side of the boat. (Hope I don't regret cutting 60' instead of 75')?

• (I expect [when underway] that I'll pull some surplus line fwd & loop around the two bow cleats, dressing the line up to the rubrail. Except for wanting an anchor bridle, the line could simply lead through both bow cleats instead of the boweye.)

Preventer
When running downwind, boom to port, hook the port dockloop over end of boom, and pull it short & cleat it using the starboard dockline. It pulls freely side-to-side through the boweye, and it will hold the boom out to port until uncleated. (I'm thinking I might actually use the jibsheet cleat for quick releasing ... 60 feet of line should easily enable this). Obviously, it can prevent the boom to either side of the boat.

Anchor Bridle
By this time you've already figured the third leg of this tripod. The longline is outside the hull, through the boweye, and perfectly positioned for a bowline on a bight to tie-off the anchor rode about 4 to 5 feet aft the bow. No matter where the bowline is inserted, the longline permits scooting it fore'n aft by adjusting length using the off-side cleating position (aft cleat, winch or bow cleat). So this is how I'll be testing the anchor bridle for reduced sailing on the rode. (The anchor rode itself must still be cleated at the bow, with slack to the bridle's bowline - natch).

Frank C wrote:For anchoring in mild conditions only ... rather than cleating your anchor line at the bow cleat, try tying the anchor line to the aft pulpit stanchion. You may tie-off to the aft stanchion of the pulpit on either side, port or starboard.

The physics:
The natural curvature of your hull, itself, is repeatedly "tacking" through the eye of the wind.
Snubbing the hull at either forequarter prevents the bow from passing across the wind.
This reduces the swing angles from 120 degrees to about 40 degrees.
The pulpit stanchion isn't the best choice of an anchor snub, but it will work for anchoring in mild winds.

tchariya wrote:Drop a second anchor from the stern to stabilize?

RussMT wrote: Also good to note about swinging 180 degrees on anchor. If that happens, under some circumstances it might be worth popping your head up to see if you are in fact dragging, then reset the alarm.