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Have you checked all your anodes lately? Are you sure? Ha..... I found a new one for me yesterday, Check this out. Mine was mildly corroded and I ordered a replacement. But I probably would not recommend looking at it unless you have to take off your carburetor intake manifold for some other reason, because the anode is inside the manifold.

12155-ZV5-000 Honda METAL, ANODE Price: $7.06
ANODE

I've never seen this anode mentioned in my Honda manual. The engine is from 1996, my guess is this anode has never been changed on my engine. Yet, I've changed the other anode three times in the past 5-years.

The anode can be seen in the manifold above. It was corroded and there was some damage to the faces of the manifold where it connected to the engine. 7 bolts removed, new gasket needed plus Permatex # 2, all linkage needs to be removed, and fuel hose.

Sorta daunting task for the first time, but doable in about 1 hour....... You do not need to remove the intake silencer and you do not have to disturb the carb settings for idle or synchronization. You should use a digital camera to capture closeups of all linkage and hoses so you do not have to wonder where things go when you reassemble.

My biggest task was scraping the old gasket off. The factory or PO had used permanent gasket dressing (such as Permatex #1) instead of removable dressing.

Caution, in that there is a risk you may may do something dumb that will make you cuss. I almost dropped a nut into the intake manifold opening on the engine while cleaning the face. That would have been a mess. I did not take pictures of how the choke linkage went on and that took me a long time to figure out. Some of the linkage "pops" out of plastic joints, so I guess at some point of brittleness due to age or clumsiness, the joints could break when taking them apart or reinstalling them. Also, be sure to check bolt torque when re-installing and after a few hours of use. I think it was 21 ft lbs, but check it to be sure.

I found another hidden anode. (Item # 4) This one is under what is called the water jacket (item # 12). Manual says to change it when corroded. I'll take a look when I get a chance. Does any other outboard have these hidden anodes and does anyone ever change them or even look at them?


LINK to PART

Today, I got around to opening up the port side of the engine to inspect the water anode I spoke of above.

Ugh.... a mess in there. The anode was corroded and I broke a bolt off in the engine getting the cover off.

I had to hacksaw the anode out.



Here is a LINK to my work today...... ( LINK HERE )

Opie, great job on pictures and explanation on your project. Only problem I see is mine may be in same condition and time for me to work on it.
Mine is a 1997 BF50 and I bought the Boat 2 yrs ago. Problem is I don't know the service on the engine and tho it appears in great condition under the hood and looks like work on carbs. one can never tell. I do have to replace impella and if this doesn't throw a lot more water out the tell tale water line, I will need to do same as you did.
Engine runs great and just replaced the throttle and shift linkage, this was a nightmare as I got info to replace with 10 ft. cables. That is way to short, than I replaced with 12 ft. cables and that was same length as I took out but very hard to move throttle and shift.
I than ordered the ( ULT MCOX13 ) thats 13 ft. long blue Uflex. This allows a 10 inch diamiter circular bend inside of the consel. Smooth a silk in throttle and Shifting.

Thanks, Dave

opie wrote:Today, I got around to opening up the port side of the engine to inspect the water anode I spoke of above.

Ugh.... a mess in there. The anode was corroded and I broke a bolt off in the engine getting the cover off.

I had to hacksaw the anode out.



Here is a LINK to my work today...... ( LINK HERE )

DaveB,

I think you should reconsider the opening of the water jacket. Here is why.

What could have been a routine opening and replacement of the anode for me, resulted in my breaking off one of the corroded 6mm bolts in the engine block. If I mangle it while trying to remove it, I could mess up my block. Using a retractor bit, it could break off inside, and those bits are so hard and brittle I would be sunk. And drilling it out and re-tapping to 8mm could weaken the already thin block at that location. Towing the whole thing to a machine shop would better the odds, but not guarantee anything. I could lose my block and I am sure it would be very expensive to replace.

On the other hand, if I had left it alone, it would have cost nothing. I probably would have had 5 to 10 more years of use with religious flushing each time I hauled out. Sure, the heat transfer was less with the muck inside and the bits of anode would have made me continue to clean the water telltale occasionally, but by that time I would be approaching 70 and most likely be looking for a boat that was smaller, bigger or one with a rocker.

Reconsider.

*****&&&&**
On edit 2 hours later--
I got the bolt out by drilling it out and retapping at 1/4 inch SAE since the 6mm threads were damaged by the drilling.
The above worry is thereby gone but the hard thinking before starting the task is still required.....

Thanks for the Heads up, I work at a Major Water Park in doing all their major problems in everything that gets corrided and extracting rusted colvatic bolts,melted hard wires,Aircraft corrossive aluminum...yep I done it. Add heat,extraction drill bit,tap of hammer,CRC lube you add every 1 hr. before you try to tap and lots of hammer taps.
It will come out, just takes a lot of time and Humor and bad words.
I have a mind that says if it don't work than I will fix it another day and sleep on it, usually 2nd day I figuared it out in my sleep.
dave

opie wrote:DaveB,

I think you should reconsider the opening of the water jacket. Here is why.

What could have been a routine opening and replacement of the anode for me, resulted in my breaking off one of the corroded 6mm bolts in the engine block. If I mangle it while trying to remove it, I could mess up my block. Using a retractor bit, it could break off inside, and those bits are so hard and brittle I would be sunk. And drilling it out and re-tapping to 8mm could weaken the already thin block at that location. Towing the whole thing to a machine shop would better the odds, but not guarantee anything. I could lose my block and I am sure it would be very expensive to replace.

On the other hand, if I had left it alone, it would have cost nothing. I probably would have had 5 to 10 more years of use with religious flushing each time I hauled out. Sure, the heat transfer was less with the muck inside and the bits of anode would have made me continue to clean the water telltale occasionally, but by that time I would be approaching 70 and most likely be looking for a boat that was smaller, bigger or one with a rocker.

Reconsider.

*****&&&&**
On edit 2 hours later--
I got the bolt out by drilling it out and retapping at 1/4 inch SAE since the 6mm threads were damaged by the drilling.
The above worry is thereby gone but the hard thinking before starting the task is still required.....

In my humble experience working with alloys, Ive found there is no substitute for time in getting steel studs out of aluminum blocks. I busted many a knuckle over air cooled VW blocks over the years, and we learned to get the engine out, then sprinkle Liquid wrench (tm) like holy water, heat and tap to get the LW into the threads, and let it soak overnight.

Most recent experience I had was with my smaller boat lug nuts - they were so badly corroded the next smaller socket fit onto the nuts!! I spent three days soaking and tapping before I applied any serious torque.

The hardest part to learn is gauging how much torque to NOT apply, and re-heating and lubing and waiting another day, instead of feeling that dreaded buttery twist followed by.....SNAP!!!

The check list just got a bit longer.

Thanks Opie for posting this information as i just brought this subject up in another post.This is the confidence that i needed. That is the beauty of this site its probably been discussed,dissected,and analysed more than once.Have a great day.

You are kind. I was a young whippersnapper then when that old thread appeared. I am going on 73 and still happy and active with our MacX.
Opie