General Thoughts for Mac26X/Suzuki DF-50 Owners

[kleinhhl]

I have a 2000 Mac26X with Suzuki DF-50 engine and needless to say, after almost ten years of life and about three years in salt water, some repairs to the mechanical systems were due. First, the steering system completely froze over the winter and had to be replaced. Next, the engine needed some TLC to get it back to its old reliable self. I thought I would write down some experiences and maybe tips to share with the forum.

1. Steering Replacement - I know this has been discussed many times before but here's my two cents. The rack and pinion steering system that my Mac26X came with was completely rusted out, everywhere. The steering cable, helm shaft, rack, right down to the brass nut that keeps the steering cable in place at the stern of the boat. I chose the Uflex T71FC rotary system over the rack and pinion from either Uflex or Teleflex. It's the single cable, non-locking clutch model so when it comes time to sailing the open seas instead of small lakes, I can add an autopilot. The Uflex rotary system seems well built and is a much smaller footprint than the rack and pinion systems.
a. I had to use a hacksaw to get the old rack and pinion out of the 26X steering console since it was such a tight fit.
b. The drawback to the rotary system is that a 3.25" hole must be cut in the steering console for the wheel shaft versus the 1" hole for the rack and pinion system.
c. Routing the new cable wasn't so bad (I got the 10 ft cable but a 9ft would suffice) and the Uflex instructions are adequate.
d. It seems like the best deal (~$125) for the Uflex rotary is from Go2Marine (Go2Marine.
With the steering system done, it is no longer such a worry, especially since the old one was due to fail the minute I got the boat off the trailer. Next step is to get a bigger wheel but the manufacturer warns not to go over 16". JUST BE SAFE AND CHECK YOUR STEERING SYSTEM BEFORE YOU GET OUT ON THE WATER!

2. Suzuki DF-50 Overhaul - If you have one of the Suzuki engines, you know it's well built and reliable but mine sat for a little too long with gas in the fuel system. Let me back up first. I had several to-dos on the Suzuki, including changing the engine oil filter and oil, changing the lower unit gear oil, replacing the water pump impeller, plate and gasket, new spark plugs, and just going over the whole engine. If you are going to do any work on the DF series Suzuki engines, get the service manual. It is well written, clear and concise.
a. I got all of my parts from Brown's Point Marina. They sell all the Suzuki parts you need.
b. Oil Change/Filter - Not too bad except you have to remove the mid-unit cover. It's just a few screws but don't strip them trying to get them out. The oil filter is right there on the left just below the engine manifold. I bought the engine oil from Walmart and got Castrol GTX 10W-40, the only brand Walmart sold that met the API classification of SH for the Suzuki engine.
c. Water Pump Repair - This is a little tricky and I definitely recommend the service manual. You have to release the shackle that ties the clutch linkage together and remove the anode connections before you remove the lower unit. The water pump sits over the drive shaft and comes off with four bolts/lock nuts. The impeller simply slides over the drive shaft and uses a key to prevent slippage. Just one note, you have to rotate the drive shaft clockwise when you put the water pump cover back on so the impeller deforms in the correct way. Also, use the water proof grease and silicon sealant everywhere the service manual recommends. The water pump gasket in my engine was completely dried out so it's a good thing I replaced it.
d. Gear Oil - This is a dirty job and sort of weird as well. You fill from the bottom by squeezing the gear oil up into the lower unit and wait until it comes out the oil level check port.
e. Spark Plugs - These are relatively easy but make sure you use a quality spark plug socket and extension so your socket doesn't get caught in the deep shaft.
Finally, I couldn't get the engine to run for more than a few seconds (with starter fluid) because I think the old gas that sat in the engine may have gummed up the fuel lines and/or the high-pressure fuel filter. For those of you who don't use your boat for an extended period of time, be sure to relieve the system's gas pressure and drain the fuel system.

Anyway, I hope these thoughts are helpful to some of you Mac owner's out there. Boat ownership is depressing and fun, all at the same time!

-Hugo

Mac26X - Baja Riha
Oologah Lake, Oklahoma

[aya16]

Good info, I would like to add a couple things, Instead of turning the shaft to get the impeller vanes going in the right direction, install the impeller, then the top housing to the pump with a twist in the right direction. Also the need to remove the lower leg of the motor to access the water pump the engine should be in gear before you take the leg off. This gives you the ability to turn the prop to line up the splines on the drive shaft to the splines in the motor, if you moved the drive shaft at all when you take the leg off.

Browns point has a 3 pix sequence showing the use of car motor oil instead of the recommended suz oil. For what its worth.

Gear oil changes can be a breeze when you buy the pump that fits the gear oil bottle, make sure you get the suzuki adapter at the same time. Also install the top screw plug when the lower unit is full and the gear oil wont come gushing out the bottom plug when you unscrew or pull the filler tube of oil out.

Not sure you have fuel injection or a carb, carburetor jets can be taken out and cleaned of gum, not sure how to get gum out of the injectors or if the injectors would gum up when the fuel is under pressure all the time. But the best way to keep old gas from gumming up the engine is to pull the gas line connector from the engine as its running and let the engine run out of gas before you put the boat away, I do this almost all the time anyway.

The suzuki DF 50 is an awesome engine, I just repowerd the mac and took my 2004 suz DF and installed it on a boston whaler 13 foot. Today was the first day I got a chance to run the whaler. The suz works absolutly great on that boat. a little under prop ed with a 15 inch it flat flew. Love my suz.
Mike

[puggsy]

For solving fuel problems, try running FUEL-SET through the system...A friend had a 115 on a launch that was running sick. He put 5oo mill. ov this lovely green stuff [ $15] in his fuel tank and ran it through...solved his problem and he did not have to undo a single screw...i've been using it for 6/7 years in my tow beast and the plugs have lasted that long...and I put it down to FUEL-SET. I bung it in my DF50 as well...and not a single missfire do I get...and if things
change I will be honest and tell you guys...
after the cleanout, a spoonful in each full tank of petrol is enough to keep the system clean,



Puggsy

[ukauction]

I had similar issues with my Suzuki - in this case it has sat for about 4 years - so I ended up having the:

- Injectors replaced
- Rebuilt fuel rail
- high pressure fuel pump replaced

as well as of course the plugs and oil change etc.

In retrospect I probably could have got away without the injectors, but it runs well now at least, and I got the boat very cheaply so was prepared to invest some $$$$ into getting it right

Alan

[kleinhhl]

Thanks for the replies. I suspect the fuel system is the problem too. I inspected the fuel injectors this morning and didn't see anything gummed up in there.

Alan, I am thinking the same thing you did. The high pressure fuel filter is probably the first thing to replace. My engine sat without much use for about 3 years.

-Hugo

[bastonjock]

how many tubes of lower case oil did it take to fill? i cant find any quantitys for mine a Yammaha 50

[kleinhhl]

bastonjock, my service manual says the lower unit of the Suzuki DF-50 takes 600 mL of hypoid gear oil. The oil came in a 1L container so I had plenty left over.

It looks like the Yamaha F50 takes 430 cc or 14.5 oz of gear lube. I found that in this document: Engine Gear Oil Capacities

Hope this helps.

-Hugo