MacGregorSailors.com

With our San Juans trip 3 days away, has anyone stepped their mast while on the water(tied up)? Other than being sure not to drop a pin or keeper overboard, any other helpful hints?

Jesse

Convert to the 26M mast raising system.



http://www.always-online.com/hardtlefam ... efault.htm

Get a new Clevis Pin from Blue Water Yachts (you have to call them):
http://www.bwyachts.com/ They call them Bow Pins and they are $5 a piece. Put a larger ring ding in the pin they send.

Previous thread on clevis pin:
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1207

Actually, I use the 'wife helps me' method.

Jesse, I've stepped the mast on the water. Really no different than on land other than as you say, don't drop anything. Also, make sure you use the temprorary shrouds, with the boat pitching just a little that mast can get away from you without them.

I agree with the need for a bigger pin. Before I knew the BWY pin was offered, I made my own pin out of a piece of 1/4" x 6" long stainless rod, bent into an L-shape, drilled for two ring dings, and tapered on the business end to make it easier to hit the holes. I drilled the furler strap out to 1/4" to accept the slightly larger pin.

Now that I've seen the BWY mushroom shaped pin, I believe my L-shaped pin is better in that it provides more leverage to install and remove. Besides providing the stop, the second ring ding is also used to attach the pin to the extra hole in the stemhead fitting with a lanyard made out of a stainless steel fishing leader, so it can't be dropped overboard.

I don't agree you should spend the time and money to switch to the M-style mast raising gear. The X-style gear works just fine for me. Without that big glommis of a winch hanging off it, I also don't feel the need to install and remove it each time I use it. I just fold the gin pole up and bungee it against the mast using the babystay eyes, disconnect the block and tackle (attached to the gin pole with a snap shackle) and bungee it to the bow pulpit. I don't even disconnect or uncleat the jib halyard, just pull it up tight and cleat it a second time.

I can deploy or stow it in less than a minute, singlehanded. On several occasions I have used it to drop and raise the the mast on the water, just like the video shows, to go under a low bridge. I've also dropped it twice in estimated 10-15 knot winds and 3-4' swells. The hard part was attaching the shackle, which I did while standing with one arm wrapped around the mast. There's a real advantage to raising or lowering while standing safely in the cockpit. Although you have to move into the cockpit to winch, then forward to pull the pin, then to the cockpit to continue lowering, you can safely dedicate one hand to the boat at all times. This is not something I'd want to try while standing flatfooted on the foredeck as shown in the photo. In fact, the pictured technique ought to be limiited to when the boat is on the trailer.

Winching from the cockpit also allows you to guide the mast into the crutch during those last few inches of travel.

Never had the occasion to raise it in such conditions, but I don't see why I couldn't.

True, it is really no different then on land. But its a lot tougher in rough then on calm water. And a little harder on calm water then on land. It's not getting the mast up in rough water that presents a problem as I can always opt to not do it. However you may have not choice but to step in down in bad conditions.

Thanks folks:

Actually we've never used the mast raising system. Everything is so light and well balanced that we just man-handle it up. We'll tie up tight at Cap Sante and put it up.

Hope we see whales this trip. I'll let ya know.

Cheers,
Jesse

It's as easy to do in the water as on land with the mast raising system. While you may find doing it by hand works, using the mast raising system takes all the difficulty and unpredictability out of it. Raising the mast with it is stress and sweat free. Being able to stop and tend to things half way up is even more important when you are in the water than on land because you don't have access from the ground.

I usually have my wife on the ground to deal with any snags, or kinks on the way up. She also puts in the headstay pin while standing on the trailer tounge. You get better leverage there pulling on the furler drum. She also tends the drum using the furling line on the way up. Obviously this can't be done this way in the water. Make sure your backstay is kink free and clear as there is no getting to it after you roll the mast back.

I have the BWY pin and really like it along with a larger ring ding. I drilled a hole in it's handle and teathered it to the bottom of the furling drum with some heavy crimped fishing mono. You can't loose it overboard if you do this.

The baby stays are even more important when floating as the boat will roll as you move around on the deck. You may want to fill the ballast before raising the mast for some extra stability although I have done mine in the water with an empty tank.

The X system is so easy to use I see no reason to switch to the M system. I leave my X system attached all the time pivoted up against the front of the mast. I leave the tackle attached and just undo the snap shackle at the deck. Tue whole thing gets bungied to the mast just below the goose neck. This keeps it secure yet makes it easy to pull it away from the mast when takng the sail cover on and off. It is completely out of the way there. My babystays are also always attached. With the big old winch on it I don't think I'd leave the M pole attached so I would have yet another thing to store somewhere below. I wouldn't want to leave it in the truck as there have been a couple times I have needed to lower the mast during a trip and it's quick and easy when everything is in place ready to go.

Can't resist comment on this one. Till you've tried both, lets not knock the M style on the X gear...ala Eric Hardtle...and Mark P. Its much easier to control the roller furler...pause as needed...double action winch allows full control both directions...jib pin is super simple..just crank the winch an extra click or two and the alignment is set...painless. And yes, we leave the unit tipped up and tied to the mast...the winch dia is only abut 5", and we quick-pin the handle to the inside when covered with a small Sunbrella velcro boot protecting the winch...and looks a bit better. For solo rigging...the M style mod on the X kit is far superior...IMHO. Jack

I step my mast on the water most of the time singlehanded with no ballast in. In fact, I prefer to do it on the calm water versus on the trailer. I used to hold the furler up with bungee cords, but the last time, I used the furler line through the fairlead as someone on this board suggested. Seemed to work fairly well..just have to work two lines.

As mentioned, the X mast raising system makes it easy. I end up going back and forth to the bow 2-3 times to get everything just right. I hate to drop any of the stays in the water so I try to have the shrouds over the stanchion/lifeline and the backstay tube (pvc pipe) tied to the rolled up bimini so that it cant fall in or wrap around the outboard.

The actual mast raising/dropping doesn't take very long, but all the tieing, untieing, boom/sails/dodger, rigging, cushions etc takes a while. I like to not have to be in a hurry when I do that stuff.

Having stepped both the X and the M on and off the trailer, I believe the M mast raising system is way easier to use. In water vs on the trailer only difference is the Admiral used to like to stand on the trailer steps to pin the forestay. In the water she sits on the deck to port of the forestay to pin it. Takes her 30 or 40 seconds longer on the water. Not a big deal.

It's easier to be on a step stool to pin the forestay.

My biggest challenge is getting the mast step bolt in. I've had to put a lot of slop in the baby stays in order to get the mast back far enough. I have the furler bungied tight to the mast but nonetheless, the mast wants to roll one way or another. So far, I've had to have the mate in the cockpit with her hands on the spreaders to help me get the bolt seated. Oh, I've managed it alone, but the repeated efforts and time consumption is very frustrating.

I want to be able to go down to the marina alone at first light and take my close to an hour time getting everything rigged, then cell phone home for the mate to bring the day's guests down.

Sloop:

Leave the furler bungeed to the mast at least as far down as the spreaders. I let it fall slightly to one side, then loop it over the masthead light and bungee it there, and it is perfectly balanced. Otherwise, with the weight of the furler pushing down on the end of one or the other of the spreaders, there's no way you can get the twist out of it enough to get the bolt in.

Then (and I kid you not) face forward with one leg on each side of the mast, and squat on the mast with it centered between your cheeks until the mast plate sits square on the deck plate. Use your legs to scoot it slightly forward and back, lift up slightly, and use one hand to twist the mast and align the first two holes, the other to put the bolt in. Once you have it in one side, use leverage on the bolt to line up the second side and slide the bolt through.

This is important: with the mast in this position, adjust the baby stays for minimum slack, but not too tight. Next time, as you squat you can just push the mast aft and it will pivot down on the baby stays and line up almost perfectly.

With the baby stays properly adjusted, the whole operation takes about four times as long to describe as it does to perform.

My record for rigging and launching, from pulling into the parking lot to boat in the water, singlehanded, is 19 minutes (with the X-type raising gear) and I can do it repeatably in under 25 minutes.

As we stay slipped through the season I raise and lower my mast on the water 3-4 times per year. 10 -12 total with the trips we take.

Same setup as on dry land just be a little more careful.

Heres a couple pics of "doing it" on the water!

Chip Hindes wrote:... let (the furler) fall slightly to one side, then loop it over the masthead light and bungee it there, and it is perfectly balanced. ...
... Then face forward with one leg on each side of the mast, and squat on the mast with it centered between your cheeks until the mast plate sits square on the deck plate. ....
... adjust the baby stays for minimum slack, but not too tight. Next time, as you squat you can just push the mast aft and it will pivot down on the baby stays and line up almost perfectly.

My mast raising procedure is identical to Chip's, and works just as he says. The one complication for me ... my Garhauer mast track is too low on the mast, so it contacts the CB guide loop, tweaking the mast to a slight angle. This makes it tough to insert the mast bolt. I drilled a hole thru the lower crutch pole to insert a stop-bolt, raising the crutch about 4" to prevent the interference.