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I went from having a four stroke Yamaha with flush kit near the the fuel connect to my Tohatsu 2 stroke with the traditional flush area down by the water intake area.Ears hooked to a hose. (Hard to get to in a slip).
We sail mainly in brackish/saltwater, Bananna and Indian Rivers, or Intercoastal area. I used to flush my Yamaha after every time out mainly because of the convenience of the flush kit. Because we keep the boat in a slip on a lift, the easiest way for me to flush, is to use our dinghy and hook it up from the water.
Does anyone have an easier way? Is it a must to flush after everytime out? I've heard differing opinions on this around my marina....

Thanks for asking the question Compromise, I hope we get an answer.

This isn't goint to help at all, I just make the observation.

My boat lives on her trailer, 'cept for about 8 weeks in summer.

Everyone who pulls out at the boat ramp does the hose down (boat and trailer) and the engine flush.

No one in the marina ever flushes their outboard. True, never ever seen one person flush their outboard.

Thanks again Compromise for asking the question, hope we get some answers.

Clemo
Sailing an X out of Batemans Bay, Australia.

Depends upon the engine and what your instruction manual says. I have a 2006 60HP Evinrude ETEC. The factory reps told me in person that my engine (in saltwater BTW) did NOT need to be flushed (then why the flush connections on the engine?). In any event, I flush it about once a month anyway. In order to make it easier - - - because I am usually in a slip - - - I bought a "quick connect" brass fitting setup at Home Depot - - - that makes the hookup a LOT easier

Rick

SEAHORSE spends most of 'her' time on a river mooring. Salty/ brackish. I flush the motor after each trip...by the expedient of a waterproof bag made out of stiff plasticised heavy duty cloth. A bit like tarp material. Put the bag opver the prop and water inlet, lower the motor back into the water, fill the bag with fresh water, make sure it is in neutral, and run the motor for about five minutes....the stiffness of the bag prevents it being sucked into the water inlets...the fresh water is picked up, circulated and shows on the telltale outlet. Finish flushing, empty remainingfresh water into surrounding brackish water and leave motor tilted.
Even with this attention, the local motor rep. advises that the water pump be serviced every 12 months . SEAHORSE is booked in for January. She is showing signs of waterpump weakness and the telltale will only show if the leg is totally covered with water. A set of flushing ears has to be held on very tight to force the flush water through the system.
Oh! by the way, just completed a four day trip covering nearly a hundred kms. in and around the MANDURAH AND HARVEY ESTUARY and a return trip up the MURRAY RIVER to the PINJARRA townsite....Still appreciating the versatility of the
Puggsy

I have been flushing my Honda every time using the ears. I have problems sometimes getting water to flow through the engine and find I have obstruction in the pea hole. Also, I still had salt buildup on the thermostat (I check it very year or 2).

So I think puggsy's idea to use a water bag is best. That allows for the water to heat up and open the thermostat (redirect the water back into the bag, but don't let it overheat). With the ears you are always pumping cold water through the engine and the thermostat may not open.

I am on my 6th season with my Honda 50 in salt water and I only thoroughly fesh water flush it at the end of each season. It is too awkward, onerous and time consuming to hook up the mouse ears on every return to the slip and besides there is still another intake vent on the underside of the anti-cavitaion plate that needs sealing to use the mouse ears. I do have the brass hose hook up and tried it in the driveway once but my preference is a big 70 litre tub under the engine skeg in the driveway and flush it for 20 minutes every weekend for a couple months and if the weather is mild enough continue right through to spring then change the oil, service the engine and start another season. The engine does not seem to salt up all that bad and I have only changed the impeller and thermostat once in six years. It runs just fine, I ran it in the tub yesterday Dec. 7/08 and she runs & sounds just fine although by now after every weekend since the end of September all traces of salt would be gone. I do not always winterize since it doea not freeze over here for any length of time, I simply run the engine every weekend untill spring.

I keep the boat on our driveway and trailer it to salt water each time we go out. Upon return, I simply connect a garden hose to the Evinrude 60HP E-tec motor and flush it for about five minutes. It has a female garden hose connector built into the motor housing. Easy as pie.

After that, I spend about an hour washing all the salt water residue off the boat and trailer.

I only flush once in a blue moon, but I too have the Etec which doesn't require flushing.

After a week on the Cape (salt water) I flush by boating on the Hudson (fresh water)


I love my Mac.

Seriously - I dip the boat into the Hudson on the way home from saltwater to rinse the trailer off, and then use the hose and flush the engine for 10 minutes while idling after salt water use.

Mercury says dont go over idle speed, and dont turn the water pressure up high when you do this.

7 seasons on my water pump impeller and still pumps with strong telltale. 2003 Mercury BF 50 HP EFI